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Thread: black algae/mustard algae

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    SW Ohio

    black algae/mustard algae

    TC -
    FC -10+
    CC -
    pH - 7.2
    TA -140
    CH - 170
    CYA -50

    I am a new user, found this site yesterday. Spent the day educating myself from it. Thank you for all the information. I am officially DONE with the local pool shop! I ordered my 2006 taylor kit, but had to start SLAMing the pool immediately. This is why the FC # is 10+. I can't accurately say what it is, but the test water is amber, not even a strong yellow.

    My problem began when we opened the pool this spring. (we have had an IG pool for 7 years) We noticed the black slimy fluffly goop around the pool light. We took it out, scrubbed and cleaned it. it has been a cool summer, hence not much swimming, and obviously not enough testing of water. Noticed some patches of dark 'scum' forming in corners of deep end and on floor of deep end. I should have SLAMed then, but I didn't. No problems throughout the summer. Just went away for a week, had neighbor put 1 bottle of liq chlorine in every second day. They noticed it getting 'murky" but didn't tell me. Got home to a greenish pool. UGH. That was Friday 16th. put 4 gl. liq chlorine. 4 again sun and on Mon am the pool was way worse. CYA was 0. upped that and have been fighting it all week.

    My ongoing problem IS: the ladder stairs have thick green algae under them caked all over. I'm taking them apart and will soak in liq chlorine. I've been keeping the FC high (10+)and maintaining it constantly. The pool is beginning to turn ever so slightly grey green.

    What do I do about the light?. I know there is nasty slimy black fluffy stuff.
    When can I expect it to really start looking better? I am beginning to wander if my sand in the sand filter is not working properly. The backwash is not as green as I would expect it to be.

    Any advice on the light and time to clear would be appreciated. Many thanks,

    30,000 gl; IG Vinyl; Hayward s210s sand filter; 1HP pump;Zodiak exp. Nature2; Oct 2006;

  2. Back To Top    #2
    BoDarville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    DFW, Texas

    Re: black algae/mustard algae

    Welcome to TFP!

    Did your light look like the one in this thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by afrikaanmomma
    When can I expect it to really start looking better?
    Once your K-2006 arrives. Given your CYA of 50, the shock level FC is 20. Without your kit, you cannot accurately determine what your FC is (as you now realize) especially at the levels you need it to be at to rid the pool of an active algae bloom.

    Quote Originally Posted by afrikaanmomma
    I am beginning to wander if my sand in the sand filter is not working properly. The backwash is not as green as I would expect it to be.
    Odds are your filter is working fine. You need to get and keep FC at shock level (we refer to it as the SLAM Process). Only then will the pool begin to clear.

    In the meantime, I would clean the light fixture thoroughly, continue your current liquid chlorine regimen until your K-2006 arrives, and clean/disinfect any pool toys, floaters, etc. that have been in the pool this season. Also wouldn't hurt to brush the pool surface daily.

    Once your test kit arrives, then you can properly begin the SLAM process.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

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