I have a motor problem. I have a 5 HP 3Phase Baldor Reliance Industrial Motor that is drawing too many amps. It is rated to draw a maximum of 14A and is drawing 18-19A under load. Bench tested at the site, the motor draws 5.5A without load. Throttling the pump down, reduces the amps to around 16A. The Voltage going into the motor is good, 205V, rated for 200-208V. I installed another new motor on site, and I had the same thing happen. Anybody ever have a similar problem?
Baldor Reliance Industril Motor Drawing Too Much Amps
- Thread starter AquatechLI
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
It sounds like the load on the motor is higher than it is supposed to be. That could be any a several things, bad bearings, severe water flow restriction, impeller rubbing against the pump housing, debris caught against the impeller, and so on.
Does it make noticeably more noise than it did when it was working normally?
It sounds like the load on the motor is higher than it is supposed to be. That could be any a several things, bad bearings, severe water flow restriction, impeller rubbing against the pump housing, debris caught against the impeller, and so on.
Does it make noticeably more noise than it did when it was working normally?
If you can't find a problem with the pump, it might be the power supply. There could be a voltage imbalance or single phasing. You might want to have an electrician check the supply.
Is the pump overheating?
Does the shaft spin freely by hand?
Are you getting the expected flow rate and filter pressure?
Is your meter true-rms?
Is your pump on its head curve?
If yes, is it in the best efficiency range?
http://cp.literature.agilent.com/litweb ... 5192EN.pdf
Is the pump overheating?
Does the shaft spin freely by hand?
Are you getting the expected flow rate and filter pressure?
Is your meter true-rms?
Is your pump on its head curve?
If yes, is it in the best efficiency range?
http://cp.literature.agilent.com/litweb ... 5192EN.pdf
The voltage coming into the motor is 205V, good reading. The lines to the motor were recently replaced. I have an electrician on site helping me.
The pump is overheating. I've already blown one new motor. The motor gets to 156 degrees F in about 10 minutes, so this is way too hot.
The shaft spins freely by hand, this is a brand new motor.
The flow rate is normal.
I am not sure if my meter is true-rms, but mine and the electricians measured within +-.1 of eachother.
The pump is overheating. I've already blown one new motor. The motor gets to 156 degrees F in about 10 minutes, so this is way too hot.
The shaft spins freely by hand, this is a brand new motor.
The flow rate is normal.
I am not sure if my meter is true-rms, but mine and the electricians measured within +-.1 of eachother.
Try following the procedure in the link I gave. Are you sure that the pump is wired correctly?
Is this a dual voltage motor?
What pump is this motor going on?
What is the rpm of the motor?
Does the shaft spin freely while mounted to the pump?
What is the pressure at the filter?
Are you measuring vacuum pressure on the suction side?
Is this a dual voltage motor?
What pump is this motor going on?
What is the rpm of the motor?
Does the shaft spin freely while mounted to the pump?
What is the pressure at the filter?
Are you measuring vacuum pressure on the suction side?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,834
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Is the new motor sized properly for the wet end?
Is this an industrial pump head?
Is the new motor THP (HP * Service Factor) greater than or equal to the old motor?
Is this an industrial pump head?
Is the new motor THP (HP * Service Factor) greater than or equal to the old motor?
I would have to go with JasonLion. New motor that bench tests good. I would then suspect the pump is definitely causing your problems.
If the amperage tests the same on all three legs, then I would suspect that the issue is mechanical. If it does not test the same on all three legs, then I would suspect the power supply.
Have you verified that the motor is rotating in the correct way?
Are you measuring voltage under load?
Have you verified that the motor is rotating in the correct way?
Are you measuring voltage under load?
Not sure if you are still looking for an answer but let me tell you we have been using baldor 5hp pumps for a commercial pool, three months ago we purchased a new one. In the last 45 days we had problems with the pump first it made a huge grinding sound then it stopped working we took it back and it was the impeller it had disintegrated, the manufacturer replaced it at no cost except transportation and pool chemicals/labor to correct the pool after it had sit stagnant for 6 days. Last week we started experience issues with the pump overheating and tripping the breaker, we called the installer at D and E pumps, titusville, Fl, they sent a person out to confirm the pump was pulling 35 amps and no matter what we did with the flow it didn't change the amps. We nursed the motor though the weekend and then yesterday the pump tech showed again when the took the pump apart the second impeller in less that two weeks had disintegrated again, the manufacturer is blaming it on the pool chemicals? That is no even possible for muriatic acid to eat a brass? impeller in 2 weeks means that any bather who was in there would have been burned, our water is tested daily and has been in the range of 74. to 7.6. My conclusion is that there is another alloy that is being used/mixed with the brass to lower costs and it does not stand up to pool chemicals. I took the tech to show him 10 years of used impellers that spent 2 to 3 years on the pump, including the last one that was good for 3 years and none of them showed the wear that was present with theirs as a matter of fact they wanted to put an old one on instead of using another one of theirs. Bottom line it is being sent back to the manufacturer but if you have impeller issues with a baldor pump or issues as you describe my bet is the impeller.