Not sure of how many gallons my pool is?

[Scrobbyd]

As stated above I'm not sure of how many gallons my pool is? I do know that it is a 936 square foot vinyl lined pool going off of the box the liner came in. If my calculations are correct then I'm in the 39,000 gal ballpark. I got my TF-100 test kit in today and I've started testing. I'm fixing to add to my signature of all of my pool equipment so maybe you guys can start showing me the ropes. BTW I've been reading quite a bit in the pool school area but its not all coming together for me as of yet. I know the more I get hands on I'll get more familiar with it, I'm a hands on kind of person, so please bare with me.
Thanks in advance

 

[techguy]

Poolcalculator.com has a tool to help calculate. If you post the dimensions here, we can help.

As for understanding PoolSchool.
Step one: Understand how CYA affects chlorine. This is the one concept that is foreign to pool stores and the key to what we do here.
Step Two: Understand why we "require" a test kit like the TF-100. My normal range for FC is 3 to 7. Every pool store I go into would consider this high and most test kits they sell can't even measure a 7FC. If I need to "shock" my pool due to an algae bloom, I need a 15FC. This is three times the limit of most chlorine tests.

 

[Scrobbyd]

I took a snap shot of the box just for this reason. Lol
[attachment=0:s9yypf3c]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376520129.135086.jpg[/attachment:s9yypf3c]

 

[foobert]

**updated due to missing the inches in the shallow end depth the first time**

5 minutes in sketchup, and I get 4306.7 cu ft, or 32213 gallons when filled to the brim.

You have 936 sq ft of surface area, so, subtract 583 gallons for every 1" that the water line is below the top of the liner.

I will say, I had a hard time reading the text in the low resolution picture, so, I may have made a transcription error. Download the sketchup file and double check the dimensions if you like: http://foobert.com/linked/2013/scrobbyd.skp

Most notably, is the depth of the shallow end listed 3 ft 4 inches?

 

[Scrobbyd]

Most notably, is the depth of the shallow end listed 3 ft 4 inches?

The pool is completely full and I just measured shallow end and it was 3' 1"
From top of water level to bottom of coping / top of liner is 4" exactly

Here is a better pic

 

[foobert]

Ok. So, subtract 3x583, for a volume of 30.5k gallons.

Note that the steps aren't modeled, so, it is most likely somewhat smaller than that.

 

[Scrobbyd]

Steps are 8'x4'
[attachment=0:xtqe6ln2]ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376588771.389415.jpg[/attachment:xtqe6ln2]

 

[techguy]

Sounds like a 30K gallons number will get you the results you need for dosing of your pool. If you find you are slightly high on a consistent basis, move up 30,500.

 

[Scrobbyd]

Okay thank you guys! I got my TF-100 w/ quikstir, I performed the CHL drop test. Not sure if this was where I needed to start but I did. I ended up with 3.5ppm on the FC & 1ppm on CC. Now what? LOL

Note: Between yesterday & today we have gotten about 2.5" of rain

 

[jblizzle]

Do a full set of tests and post the results.

A CC of 1ppm usually points to a need for the SLAM process.

 

[techguy]

If you showed 1 CC (two drops to clear the pink in the second test), you should SLAM the pool.

What is your CYA? (remember this is the first step to understanding BBB)

 

[spidey07]

The 1 ppm of CC indicates organics in the water and the need to SLAM your pool. Post up a full set of test results most importantly CYA. CYA level is critical to understanding where to maintain FC and at what level to SLAM effectively. The CYA test can be difficult at first to interpret correctly - be sure to do outside in full sun with sun to your back. Lighting is very important for the test. You can pour the reagent/pool water mixture back and forth between the measuring tube and mixing vial to see if you are getting consistent readings. The dot should disappear completely when viewed down the tube.

There is a great thread in "testing and balancing your water" section with extended testing instructions.
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

 

[Scrobbyd]

Okay so here are all my numbers:
FC 3.5
CC 1
TA 150
CH 140
CYA 30
pH 8.2
CL 3
Br 6
Salt is 3400

 

[techguy]

Time to bring down your pH. That will be your first step in SLAMing your pool

SLAM YOUR POOL

 

[Scrobbyd]

Time to bring down your pH. That will be your first step in SLAMing your pool

SLAM YOUR POOL

Thank you techguy I read your SLAM YOUR POOL so get me up to speed please. How much of what do I need to get my pH down and best way to do so? Also my little girl will be home from school soon and more than likely she'll be wanting to swim. Another words should I wait till later when she is done swimming and how long should I keep the pool free of swimmers once I start adding chemicals?

 

[jblizzle]

Keep reading Pool School. poolcalculator.com will tell you how much muriatic acid is required to lower the pH. It will also tell you how much bleach you will need to reach and maintain the shock level required for the SLAM process. Note that last word. It is a process that will likely take at least a few days of maintain the FC at/above shock level ... during which time no one should swim until you pass the 3 criteria to stop.

Once you are done, the pool is safe to swim after the FC drops below shock level.

Normally, it is safe to swim within an hour of adding any chemicals.

 

[techguy]

So, my middle of the road.. keep the kids happy ...clean the pool recommendation would be to

go buy 4 gallons of bleach/liquid chlorine and a bottle or two of MA
add half the MA required to get your pH to 7.2,
wait an hour,
let the kids swim,
put them to bed,
Test your ph,
add the other other half of the MA required (if needed)
add the chlorine to start your SLAM
keep SLAMMING.

I know swimming while SLAMMING is not the fastest way to get the pool clear but you need to balance the needs of the kids and the needs of the pool. I normally SLAM it hard overnight and let the FC drift a little below SLAM FC levels in the afternoon so the kids can swim and then bring it back to SLAM levels as soon as the kids get out. Sorry for the acronyms. You will get used to them quickly around here.

 

[Scrobbyd]

Okay guys,

Please don't scold me too badly because I think I have messed up!! I just read that I should not test water for at least a week after putting in stabilizer (must have overlooked this detail). On Tuesday, I put 1 1/2 pounds of stabilizer in 2 socks and put one in each skimmer (this was advised by the pool company that tested our water over the weekend).

So, I apologize if I have wasted your time by giving me instructions for fixing my water when I tested prematurely... Despite this oversight, should I still take steps to adjust pH?

 

[foobert]

For sure on the PH.

Retest the CYA in one week and adjust your chlorine levels for the SLAM (if still ongoing) based on your updated CYA readings. Do continue the SLAM processes!

After a CYA addition, it takes about a week for it to fully register on the test. So, quite likely, you have a higher CYA than the most recent test revealed.

 

[techguy]

For the purpose of moving forward, assume that any CYA you have added, is present. So, if you added x pounds of CYA for 30 Ppm, assume you have 30 ppm and use that figure for chlorination and SLAMing. No need to wait to prove its there. Wait the week before testing your CYA but move forward on all of your other levels.