I just bought this house, and it had nice pool, and that was 4 months ago. I had some problems and corrected them easily. But I now have a major problem. We had a storm so bad it dumped 7 inches of water on us. We have an upper yard and the pool is below it. So much rain, created a water fall of rainy dirty water into my pool. A lot of the dirt settled, but the water still looks slightly cloudy. I can suck the dirt right out to waste, off the bottom and I have about 2 inches in the pool to do it. But I am worried the cloudy water will clog the filter. Here are the specs: Pool pump is a Hayward sand filter, with salt generator and heater, 16 x 40... goes from 3ft to 6ft. Does anyone have any proven ideas to get it clear without clogging the filter, salt generator or the heater? I live in New jersey, so it is like a sand-dirt mix. Please any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Dirt filled rain water run off into pool
- Thread starter murphy663
- Start date
Set your multivalve to Waste and it should not got thru the filter and the rest of the plumbing. Then you can vacuum the mud straight to the sewer or wherever you have your waste go.
Welcome to TFP!!!It would be best to scoop out as much dirt as possible, then vacuum to waste anything else on the bottom. You can not really "clog" a sand filter. You just should backwash it whenever the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure.
You will also want to SLAM the pool after most of the dirt is out to "kill" off any organics and help clear up the water. [slam:3mk6tcwt][/slam:3mk6tcwt]
I turned the filter (sand) on and I am going to let that run over nite...I just put a new Top Mount Multiport. The pump was running at 12 lbs, but it was running at 4 lbs when I got the house. I backwashed in rinse for a minute or two. Calcium deposits came out. I did check sand level and it was ok. But my theory was all the sand particles will clog the main filter. I have a robot I will run tomorrow, and a cordless that will suck much of the heavy deposit. I will put the pool on super chlorinate and that generator should shock the pool... I am more worried about the sand particles. I removed a skimmer basket, and on the bottom was sand. Should I just empty a third of the pool and refresh it and then dump 80 lbs of salt to super chlorinate it?
I have a computerized salt machine that lets me know what is going on... I have the pool pump running and will keep it on all night.
I have a computerized salt machine that lets me know what is going on... I have the pool pump running and will keep it on all night.
I think there is terminology confusion here. You turned on the "pump" to run overnight. The "filter pressure" is at 12psi. The main filter is full of sand (it is a sand filter), how can the sand particles clog a filter that is full of sand?
You can not use the SWG on superchlorinate to SLAM the pool. It adds the chlorine much too slowly. Read the link I provided earlier for the methods we teach to clear up the pool.
Adding salt does not "super-chlorinate" the pool. The cell breaks the salt and releases chlorine, but adding more salt does not change the amount generated.
Why do you think you need to drain a 1/3 of the pool.
I think you should just take a deep breath and do some reading. A filter is designed to trap the debris in the pool ... it will not be harmed ... that is its job.
Have you ever backwashed the filter with the new valve? You need to use the "backwash" setting not the "rinse" setting.
You can not use the SWG on superchlorinate to SLAM the pool. It adds the chlorine much too slowly. Read the link I provided earlier for the methods we teach to clear up the pool.
Adding salt does not "super-chlorinate" the pool. The cell breaks the salt and releases chlorine, but adding more salt does not change the amount generated.
Why do you think you need to drain a 1/3 of the pool.
I think you should just take a deep breath and do some reading. A filter is designed to trap the debris in the pool ... it will not be harmed ... that is its job.
Have you ever backwashed the filter with the new valve? You need to use the "backwash" setting not the "rinse" setting.
Sorry to be the bringer of bad news, but your SWG will not produce enough chlorine to "shock" you pool. They are built to maintain a FC level.
You will need to add chlorine via bleach or liquid chlorine (same thing, actually, different strengths) to the proper SLAM level for your CYA.
I don't see mention of any test kit. Do you test your own water?
You will need to add chlorine via bleach or liquid chlorine (same thing, actually, different strengths) to the proper SLAM level for your CYA.
I don't see mention of any test kit. Do you test your own water?
Yes I test the water every other day, strips and a digital reader...I compare it to what the swg computer says.... I use liquid chlorine to shock it... I was a builder for 30 yrs and am very familiar with the pool set ups (just not winterizing)... The guy who had this place had the right idea with the SWG, gas and solar panel heaters, over sized pump and filter.... but whoever installed it did a crappy job with valves, etc..... I ran the pump and the water is crystal clear, with all the heavy dirt on the bottom. So I am going to vac to waste and then use my robot and my catfish to get what I can or stir it up.... But I do have to tell you, when I put the Salt Gens on, with in 6 hours, the pool was crystal clear, but now one is saying to inspect.... I just can not understand with all the rain in the past few weeks, how they are not asking for salt!!
I would suggest since you are using test strips and a digital reader (assuming they are not just for the salt) that you invest in a good FAS-DPD test kit.
Test strips for anything but salt are notorious for being inaccurate, and digital readers have a bad habit of needing constant calibration.
That is why we are constantly asking new users to invest (and it IS an investment in your pool!) in a proper drops based test kit.
Since you stated you are located in New Jersey, your best bet would be to purchase the TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net.
Test strips for anything but salt are notorious for being inaccurate, and digital readers have a bad habit of needing constant calibration.
That is why we are constantly asking new users to invest (and it IS an investment in your pool!) in a proper drops based test kit.
Since you stated you are located in New Jersey, your best bet would be to purchase the TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net.
I do have a test kit with the drops, but I never opened it.... The strips are for the salt and the digital is new.... Leslie Pools will recalibrate it for me in 3 months, for free, since I bought it there.... Like I said, i was concerned with clogging the SWG or the sand filter.... the water is clear, but now I have a check salt cell and they looked good 2 weeks ago.... so back to pulling them apart!
Well, we generally do not put much faith in the digital testors ... then just seem to consistently struggle with some of the parameters.
Not to mention that most seem to also max at at a FC of 10ppm ... which is not high enough for the SLAM process.
Not to mention that most seem to also max at at a FC of 10ppm ... which is not high enough for the SLAM process.