Finally, some clarity! But, what's next?

[HoosierDaddy]

We have had our pool for about a year with no issues, until last week. About 4 days ago, our water was cloudy. With the help of this site, we finally have clear water again!

The problem: (Sounds stupid now, but...) our builder never mentioned the fact that we have to re-add DE after backwashing. On top of that, we let the pool run out of chlorine. So, we have gotten to where we are now after completely washing out the filter, re-adding DE as required, shocking, backwashing, re-adding DE, and repeating as necessary.

I have ordered a TF100 kit, but it won't be here for a few days. Instead of waiting, we picked up another kit at a store, but I'm afraid it doesn't give me an accurate reading for chlorine.

With that fact noted, here's where we stand:

FC - ~ 2.0
TC - 5+ (our test only goes up to 5, and we are beyond that)
CC - 3+
pH - 7.2 (had to bring this up a few times over the last few days, and I'm about to do it again)
TA - 250
CH - 280 (Hey, we got one right!)
CYA - Non-existent (I know this needs to be up - I'll get started on that as well.)

Just some questions to help maintain what's left of my sanity:

- Based on the CC being over 0.5, I've read that I should continue shocking. Is that true, even though my water is now clear?
- I've also read that TA does not need to be brought down unless I have a reason to, and I don't think I have a reason to... Agree/disagree?
- Does the lack of CYA affect any of the other levels?
- How soon can the kids get back in?

Thanks to everyone who shares their experiences on this site!

 

[Butterfly]

Welcome to the forum

Congrats on ordering the fav TF100 test kit

Which test kit did you pick up to use for now?

Do you have the OTO yellow drop kit? (the one with the red pH tester on one side)?
What color is the chlorine side test result?

How much CYA do you plan to add and how do you plan to add it?

How have you been chlorinating the pool? bleach/liquid chlorine? pucks/tabs/sticks? powder/granules?

 

[Donldson]

I know you have been around for a while, but since it's your first post: Welcome to TFP

- Based on the CC being over 0.5, I've read that I should continue shocking. Is that true, even though my water is now clear?
Yes, you have to pass all 3 of the criteria to stop SLAMing. Less than .5 CC, pass the OCLT, and clear water. Have you run an OCLT?

- I've also read that TA does not need to be brought down unless I have a reason to, and I don't think I have a reason to... Agree/disagree?
Agreed, if your pH is rising you will bring the TA down over time adding acid anyway.

- Does the lack of CYA affect any of the other levels?
With zero CYA your FC will drop extremely quick in the sun, almost completely burning off within a few hours of sunlight. You want to bring that up to at least 30 so that you can hold FC during the day. Also CYA is a buffer, if there is zero it will oxidize stuff quickly, such as swimsuits and skin.

- How soon can the kids get back in?
If your CYA is truly zero I wouldn't let them swim if the FC is over 5. If you have ever used tablets to chlorinate then you do have some CYA and it's probably safe up to around 10. Once you have a readable CYA level then it is safe to swim up to and including the shock level.

 

[Butterfly]

btw, the pH dropping is from an acidic source. What else has been added to the pool?

Have you perhaps been adding MA (muriatic acid) ?

I've also read that TA does not need to be brought down unless I have a reason to, and I don't think I have a reason to... Agree/disagree?

Yes, agree. Just forget about the TA for now.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Answers to questions below:

Which test kit did you pick up to use for now?

We've been using the yellow Chlorine test until yesterday. This new kit - it's branded by the store, but inside it's a Taylor kit. This Taylor kit is a red test for Chlorine and has me add two agents to test the FC, and then a third to test for TC, then calculating the CC.

How much CYA do you plan to add and how do you plan to add it?

I'm open to suggestions - have never done it, and can't make it to the store until later today.

How have you been chlorinating the pool? bleach/liquid chlorine? pucks/tabs/sticks? powder/granules?

We have an automatic chlorinator which uses pucks. It's a Pentair model.

btw, the pH dropping is from an acidic source. What else has been added to the pool?
Have you perhaps been adding MA (muriatic acid) ?

I've only been adding liquid "Pool Shock" and a powdered "pH Up" product.

With zero CYA your FC will drop extremely quick in the sun, almost completely burning off within a few hours of sunlight

I should add that we also have an auto cover, so we have a way to control this.


Thanks again for the replies!

 

[Butterfly]

CYA - Non-existent (I know this needs to be up - I'll get started on that as well.)

We have an automatic chlorinator which uses pucks. It's a Pentair model.

Okay, since you have been using pucks in the auto chlorinator, you have been adding CYA to the pool, albeit slowly, still adding CYA. The trichlor pucks are acidic and that is why your pH has been dropping.

So, don't add any CYA until we get a confirmed CYA test result.

I have a feeling the pool is overstabilized. This is the common result of using any form of stabilized chlorine, like pucks.
This would explain your first sentence in your first post:

We have had our pool for about a year with no issues, until last week

How did you test it before and can you re-test it? Have someone follow along with the test to help confirm the result. You can pour the mixture back into the bottle and re-pour it back into the test tube several times to see if you get the same results.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I've retested the CYA and here's more details on that. (My wife watched and confirmed what I was doing).

This is from a Taylor test kit. 7 mL of the pool water is mixed with 7mL of the re-agent. Then, there's this tube with a black dot at the bottom. The solution is supposed to be cloudy, and when you add the solution to the tube there should be a point where you can no longer see the black dot when viewed from the top. The tube is marked with numbers from 100 near the bottom to 30 at the top. I can fill the tube and the black dot is still completely visible. So, while it may not be accurate to say CYA is non-existent, it is certainly way less than 30.

I double-checked the pucks, and they are trichlor, "stabilizing" tablets. So, I'm not sure what to make of this...

 

[duraleigh]

So, I'm not sure what to make of this...

Let's answer your original questions here in just a bit...

1. Your CYA is at or near zero. Please purchase enough CYA to get to 20-30 ppm and put it in your pool...sooner rather than later.

2. Get your filter operating properly.

3. Add 1 gallon or thereabouts of Clorox everyday until your TF-100 gets to you

Now...

Based on the CC being over 0.5, I've read that I should continue shocking. Is that true, even though my water is now clear?

Disregard that until your kit gets in

- I've also read that TA does not need to be brought down unless I have a reason to, and I don't think I have a reason to... Agree/disagree?

Disregard TA entirely for now

- Does the lack of CYA affect any of the other levels?

It allows your chlorine to be consumed at a very high rate

- How soon can the kids get back in?

I don't understand why you think they should've stopped

You (just for now) lack some of the fundamental understanding of pool water chemistry. The way to gain that knowledge is to read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Read it until you understand it or post questions on here for clarification.

Once your kit arrives, please do the complete set of tests and post the results. We'll have you making progress in no time.