We had the below retaining walls constructed in our yard. We plan on installing a 16x32 doughboy Copper Canyon pool on the flat part. Does anyone see any issues with doing this? The flat portion was compacted and full of rock. Any thoughts/suggestions?
Above Ground Pool with Retaining Walls
- Thread starter jnikodym
- Start date
IMHO if it was compacted properly you should be fine.
If your unsure or you want to be sure, and not in a hurry for the pool, I would let it sit for a year to let it go thru a cycle of the seasons and settle any if it is going to. Then you know and if it did settle any you can fix it before the pool goes up.
The walls look nice!
If your unsure or you want to be sure, and not in a hurry for the pool, I would let it sit for a year to let it go thru a cycle of the seasons and settle any if it is going to. Then you know and if it did settle any you can fix it before the pool goes up.
The walls look nice!
If you are confident your compaction is complete, you should be OK.
It you waited until spring to build, you would see any low areas that develop during the winter and you could address them without a pool full of water on it.
Looks like the walls were engineered with the deep blocks?
It you waited until spring to build, you would see any low areas that develop during the winter and you could address them without a pool full of water on it.
Looks like the walls were engineered with the deep blocks?
Well, I'm not sure where you are located, but I'd wait a full year's cycle of season to let that earth settle, freeze, thaw, heat up, etc. We even had our builder HIGHLY suggest this for just a 2 stall detached garage, because of settling issues. I would HATE to put a very heavy swimming pool on a surface like that, which has just been built up to level.
My two cents.
My two cents.
I think you're good to go if it has been properly compacted with the right materials.
I would not unless it was a concrete pad. Rule #1 is do not build up to level, dig down onto solid ground. I have seen retaining walls collpase over years due to erosion, poorly constructed, heavy rains, ground shifting, etc. At least a concrete pad would reinforce it.
Saying that however, if the pad was several years old, and heavily compacted that may be a different story.
I would consider using the area in front of the second wall, and turning that newly done section into your patio/pool/party area! You would almost have a walk in pool due to the height differences, and have an awesome size pool party area.
Saying that however, if the pad was several years old, and heavily compacted that may be a different story.
I would consider using the area in front of the second wall, and turning that newly done section into your patio/pool/party area! You would almost have a walk in pool due to the height differences, and have an awesome size pool party area.
Seems like the comments at about 50/50 on the plan. I was assured by the company that built the walls that the area is compacted and will not settle. It is compacted with gravel and dirt using 6" lifts. I'm probably going to let it set for a few weeks and go for it. The way the walls are set up I will walk directly off my patio to pool level where a deck will be built.
I have been building for over 30 years and there is no way where I live that I would build on fill dirt. As a builder I wouldn't want the liability of something happening that is due to ground settling.
My pool sits on 55 tons of compacted 2A modified. No problems. If your fill is the right material, put in, in reasonable sized lifts and compacted properly you'll be ok.
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johnnysnok
Well-known member
You should be ok, i was in the same situation with about a 4' slope in my backyard and i wanted my pool to be even with my existing deck. So i installed a retaining wall also, this will be my third year with no issues. I did install a perforated pipe about 3' to 4' down during the backfill process to carry water out to the drain i installed in the wall.
i attached some old pictures.
i attached some old pictures.
johnnysnok
Well-known member
@johnnysnok, thank you. Your pool, walls, and deck look very nice. This gives me some assurance it will work out. The company that installed my walls also have drain pipe around the walls to help with the drainage.
I had the pool installed last week and it is now full of water and running. It's early but i haven't seen any settling issues. I am now trying to tackle water chemistry. My pH is very high, around 8.4. I'm guessing i need to add quite a bit of PH minus, correct?
Muariatic Acid (MA) is less expensive but a touch more difficult to deal with as it is a strong, smelly acid. That being said, adding MA to the pool immediately changed the pH in my pool last week. You add MA and your pH is adjusted within 30 minutes. You pour liquid MA slowly in front of where your water returns to the pool, with the pump running.
You can use dry acid but it takes longer and can be more expensive and the powder can damage your liner.
You can use dry acid but it takes longer and can be more expensive and the powder can damage your liner.
This is what I use. This box will read that the MA is 34.5% or 20 baume. I have also bought 29%. "Pool" MA is 14.5% and costs essentially the same as the full strength MA. Be careful when buying as the inventory can be mixed. You need to select the correct package.
Most of us use MA. Keep in mind that it is an acid. It will etch concrete and you don't want to get too close because of the fumes and splash risk. I always wear safety glasses or sunglasses when I pour it slowly into the pool. I poor it slowly over a running return in the deep end so the current and large volume of water dilute it quickly. Don't pour so fast it splashes or gurgles. I have an in ground pool so the tendency is to kneel down on the deck and lean over to pour. That puts your face close to the action if you don't pay attention.techguy said:
It sounds worse than it is but if you have never handled it before there are some basic safety issues you need to be aware of. Better safe than sorry.
I have a number of pool shirts with spots from bleach when I got in a hurry but none from the acid. I pay more attention to the acid.
Adding MA to an AG pool can place the top of the wall near your face. I tend to remove my shirt when adding chems to my pool to avoid any bleach spots. I have a lexan pitcher I use to pour my liquids into the pool. I pour them slowly in a stream that is less than a pencil in diameter and when using MA, I make sure I am standing upwind of it. Down wind of MA is bad place to be.
I do use a PoolSkim so in general I add all of chemicals to the pool skim. It has a vortex of water to pour into so I know it will quickly mix with the water and splashing is essentially eliminated.
I do use a PoolSkim so in general I add all of chemicals to the pool skim. It has a vortex of water to pour into so I know it will quickly mix with the water and splashing is essentially eliminated.
If you have some on hand, it will work fine. If you were going to the store to buy some, I would buy MA.
Should I get the ph in the correct range before u start adding chlorine or go ahead and add chlorine?