My Intex SWG bit the bullet today less than one month pass the end of the 2-yr warranty. To be honest I hadn't been very satisfied with how it performed but in reality it was likely more me not completely understanding pool chemistry. So seeing how the summer weather has turned cooler here in northern VT and likely not more than a month left for the pool season I decided to take the path of least resistance and try out Pristine Blue for the remainder of the summer. Well after reading some of the threads here about PB not being a sanitizer and the likeliness of green hair, I have decided to utilize the BBB method instead. I have an Intex 15' x 42" metal frame pool with the 1000gph filter pump. The test results from today are 7.9ph, 200ppm hardness, 100ppm alkalinity, 1500 ppm total dissolved solids. Since this test was run for PB use FC, TC and CYA was not run. My last test from 7/12/13 showed CYA to be 15. I will get these values tomorrow and update. I will also order a test kit tonight if someone will please decide for me which one is best based on the above info. The big concern right now is what to do until I get a TFP test kit. The pool has been cloudy for some time and has recently improved (I can see bottom standing from the opposite side) but I'm really concerned letting the pool sit too long without chlorine. The only PB product I have added is the Pristine Check which apparently removes excess calcium.
Hello!
- Thread starter poolaid
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!!!WOW, did this post threw me a curve ball. I saw "take the path of least resistance" and assuming chlorine and BAM ... the horrendous Pristine Blue ... then I type this and start reading again and am relieved you saw the error in your ways
The best kit is the TF-100 ... until you have that, it is going to be hard to make suggestions. You certainly want to be adding some chlorine every day though. You are around 4k gallons, so I would suggest about 30oz of 8.25% bleach each day until you can test the FC and CC and CYA levels.
Welcome to TFP!
^What he said.jblizzle said:
You can ignore total dissolved solids (TDS). TDS is made up of several components. For that reason, there is no "good" or "bad" level. The TF-100 will test the individual components that are most important.poolaid said:
Thanks for the help guys! Should I add the XL option to the TF-100?
I was reading over the guide for seasonal pools which suggests dry acid (ph down) to lower ph and Dichlor to get your chlorine and CYA levels up when you first get the pool going for the season. Are these only available at pool supply stores?
I was reading over the guide for seasonal pools which suggests dry acid (ph down) to lower ph and Dichlor to get your chlorine and CYA levels up when you first get the pool going for the season. Are these only available at pool supply stores?
I would stick with muriatic acid to lower the pH and it is simpler to just add the CYA and chlorine separately instead of the combination of effects that result from the use of dichlor.
Most/all of these are available at Walmart or large hardware stores.
The XL will ensure you do not run out of reagent as yo u are learning to manage the pool and if you have to SLAM it. The SpeedStir is also a GREAT option, highly recommended.
Most/all of these are available at Walmart or large hardware stores.
The XL will ensure you do not run out of reagent as yo u are learning to manage the pool and if you have to SLAM it. The SpeedStir is also a GREAT option, highly recommended.
Being that you only have another month or so of swim season, I would not opt for the XL option in your case unless you need to SLAM or have visible signs of algae or other organic contamination.
Dichlor is available around here at warehouse clubs, big box retailers, and even some grocery stores (seasonally). I would not use dichlor until you run a series of tests using the TF-100. CYA is much easier to add than it is to lower if it gets too high. Stick with liquid bleach.poolaid said:
Welcome!
Trichlor can be found as powdered "shock" at many big box hardware stores, as well as Ace & Tru-Value this time of year. But "shock" has no defined meaning, so read the label! The alternative is trichlor, which might not be a bad idea for you for a little while. Each 8 oz puck will add 14 PPM FC, 8 CYA, and lower pH by .7 - all things you can use.
Or just buy stabilizer by itself. Sadly, it usually comes on 3 or 4 lb packages, which is waaaaay more than you'll need.
I think the dry acid recommendation is because they pools typically hold so little water and dry acid stores well. But who knows. I'd just use muriatic acid and be done with it.poolaid said:
Trichlor can be found as powdered "shock" at many big box hardware stores, as well as Ace & Tru-Value this time of year. But "shock" has no defined meaning, so read the label! The alternative is trichlor, which might not be a bad idea for you for a little while. Each 8 oz puck will add 14 PPM FC, 8 CYA, and lower pH by .7 - all things you can use.
Or just buy stabilizer by itself. Sadly, it usually comes on 3 or 4 lb packages, which is waaaaay more than you'll need.
TF-100 kit, speedstir and XL option ordered! Any tips on running the tests? Is there a FAQ for the TF-100 test kit? Thanks guys.
Regarding the recommendation of 30 oz of 8.25% bleach pending FC, CC and CYA levels...30 oz seems like a lot. Once a pool is stabilized what is likely the chlorine dosage range? And I'm assuming most if not all bleach sold at the grocery store is 8.25%?
Regarding the recommendation of 30 oz of 8.25% bleach pending FC, CC and CYA levels...30 oz seems like a lot. Once a pool is stabilized what is likely the chlorine dosage range? And I'm assuming most if not all bleach sold at the grocery store is 8.25%?
Of COURSE there are tips 
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
You should also go ahead and read all of Pool School a few times ... or at least the first few articles to get a better feel for the chemistry.
A clean pool will need about 2-3ppm of FC added every day.
Don't trust that all bleach is 8.25%, read the label, if it does not say it could be low around 3%.
extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
You should also go ahead and read all of Pool School a few times ... or at least the first few articles to get a better feel for the chemistry.
A clean pool will need about 2-3ppm of FC added every day.
Don't trust that all bleach is 8.25%, read the label, if it does not say it could be low around 3%.
It comes with instructions, and if you really need help, Dave will pick up the phone. However, pretty much the most you'll ever need can be found here.poolaid said:
30 oz. of 8.25% will raise your FC by about 4ppm, which is pretty safe no matter what your CYA is. As for daily FC use, there's a lot that goes into it, but on average figure 2-3ppm per day, which would be between 14 and 21oz.poolaid said:
Yes, nearly everything at the grocery store is 8.25%. If you're lucky enough to live in an area where 10% or 12.5% is available and cheap, figure out the cost on a unit basis, and it might be a better deal.
EDIT: That's twice in 10 minutes that I haven't typed fast enough!!
Sodium hypochlorite is the active ingredient in bleach? What do you guys like to use to measure out the pool additives?
Yes.
Personally I do not measure and just estimate to the nearest 1/4 jug. But your pool is smaller so a plastic measuring cup should work.
Personally I do not measure and just estimate to the nearest 1/4 jug. But your pool is smaller so a plastic measuring cup should work.
Thanks for the help! I'm going to re-read Pool School, BBB for Beginners and the Extended Test Kit Directions now and if I don't have any questions will be done for the night. I'll be back tomorrow with the FC, TC and CYA readings. Thanks again.
Well I have a question. Should a pick up some muriatic acid and begin lowering the ph level while awaiting my test kit? Also, how many bottles of bleach would be a good number to have on hand initially? I guess that's two questions and as I read things over there'll likely be more.
You could. Lowering the pH is the first step of the SLAM process.
Hard to say. It will take at least one 121oz jug to get to shock level. 5-10 jugs would be a good start. You will use them eventually.
Hard to say. It will take at least one 121oz jug to get to shock level. 5-10 jugs would be a good start. You will use them eventually.
For my pool I generally add 8-16 oz of 12.5% so roughly 13-25 oz of 8.25% of bleach daily. It seems all pools and geographic locations are different but that gives you an idea of use for a slightly larger pool. For measuring I use a transparent plastic cup from the local pizza place and marked it with a permanent marker by filling from a real measuring cup. A clear cup would've been better but I had plenty of them so that's what I used
I'm just back and I have some 20 baume MA, 6 gallons of 8.25% bleach and test results.
FA = 2.7
TC = 2.7
CC = 0
pH = 7.8
CH = 230
CYA = 15
Everything else zero, oh snap, the rest probably wasn't tested. I added about 20 oz (guess) of 6% bleach at 1am today. As mentioned I'm awaiting the TF-100. Pool is cloudy but not real cloudy. What should my course of action be until I receive the test kit?
My daughter wanted me to use the party emoticon!
FA = 2.7
TC = 2.7
CC = 0
pH = 7.8
CH = 230
CYA = 15
Everything else zero, oh snap, the rest probably wasn't tested. I added about 20 oz (guess) of 6% bleach at 1am today. As mentioned I'm awaiting the TF-100. Pool is cloudy but not real cloudy. What should my course of action be until I receive the test kit?
My daughter wanted me to use the party emoticon!
If your numbers are actually right I would think 6-8 oz of MA would be ok. Without a TA number it's hard to know how much to use since that can make a big difference. Another 15 oz of bleach should keep you under 5 FC which is where you need to be for your CYA level. This is assuming the pool store figures are correct, which is very hard to say. Do not add the bleach and MA at the same time or ever let them come in contact with each other, best to store in two separate locations. You probably need to find a good way to measure liquid with a plastic container since with our smaller pools a couple oz can make a big difference
I did get a 30oz measure cup. I'll add bleach now. When would it be best to add the MA?