BBB with puck auto chlorinator

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R

rarat5

0
Aug 20, 2007
19
Orange Park FL
I'm converting my neglected pool over to BBB and was wondering if I should still use the auto chlorinator with the pucks? Also I'm using a basic 4 test water test kit but the numbers do not appear to correlate with the standard PPM numbers needed to use the Pool Calc to figure out how much bleach is needed to reach shock level. Is there a way to convert the numbers on this test kit (0.2 - 5.0) over to actual PPM until my TF-100 arrives? Can I get accurate PPM numbers from the kid at "Steal-A-Penny"? Thanks!

Randy
 
Hi Randy,

It is helpful to list your area (local weather conditions) and your pool equipment. You can update your profile to include them in your signature.

It's going to be hard to help you without knowing what your test results are. Your 4 way test...well....let's just say you will understand when you get the TF-100.

Ok. the OTO chlorine test that goes up to 5...that's 5ppm. If you have to shock above that, you are just guessing at the result.

The PH test, that gives you a range of colors and numbers. You want your ph about 7.5 which is a reddish orange....my old 6-way test had numbers on the reading tube.

What other tests can it perform? TA?

Have you had your water tested by a pool store?

Have you performed any tests on your water yourself with your kit? What did the results look like? If you just post the numbers we can interpret them for you.

The auto chlorinator.... without knowing what your CYA level is, and your kit doesn't test for it, we can't answer that question completely.
 
The auto Chlorinator uses "pucks" as the chlorine source. Pucks add CYA to your water. High CYA (anything over 90ppm) is a problem. People with a SWG can run their CYA higher, 60-80.

The more CYA you have in the pool, the more chlorine is required to be effective. Read the CYA/Chlorine chart.

It can be pretty expensive to run a pool with high CYA....

So this tells you a bit about why we need to know your level.
 
Thanks for the quick response. The pool is an above ground vinyl lined 21' by 4' about 10K gallons with a sand filter. The kit will test FC, CC, pH, Acid demand and TA (I know thats 5 test but the kit says 4? go figure). So yesterday was the first time I used this kit up until then I was using the pool store which always gave me non consistant analysis and added to my frustration which led to my neglect! Hopefully my therapy here at TFP will allow me once again to be an active member of pool society. Sorry, you wanted numbers, I'm guessing here but I believe my CC reading was about a 1 and my pH was well below the 6.8 listed at the bottom of the scale. It was late I was tired I'll try it a few more times this weekend and compare my results with the pool store. I'm just leary of adding a bunch of bleach without knowing where I'm starting from or how high I'm taking it, this liner was not cheap!

Again thanks for your assistance.

Randy
 
Okay...

Just get comfortable taking the tests, so you are confident with the accuracy, it took me a few tries before I was confident. Without knowing your CYA result, your CL test won't tell us much. Have the pool store test for the CYA, it will at least give us some idea.

Your PH sounds low. Is your filter running? How does your water look? Be sure to take the tests after the water has been circulating and from 1 foot below the surface.

So after you are confident, post them here and we'll go from there. :)
 
OK now I have numbers.

From poolstore:

FC: 0.0
TC: 0.4
CC: 0.4
pH: -6.5? OUCH!
Hardness: 60
Alkalinity: 0.0
CYA: 40

Do they sell borax by the cubic yard? I had them re-run the test and the pH came out the same so I'm not sure what that means. They also recommended 21lbs of calcium plus, but in my reading here haven't I learned that vinyl lined pools donot require calcium?

Also, water is currently neon green and has only been this way since all of our rain this week. The kids were swimming in it last weekend, I realize that doesn't mean there wasn't a problem I'm just letting you know how long it's been green.

Thanks again for all of y'alls help.

Randy
 
I guess you could say your calcium is a little low but that is also low priority.

Get your PH up as soon as possible by adding 4lbs of Washing Soda (arm & hammer - grocery store/walmart) according to the pool calc. Dissolve in warm water first, and your pool may get cloudy but that will clear, don't worry it's normal.

Pour the dissolved solution into the skimmer, the bubbles from the return may cloud too don't worry it should clear in 30 minutes (I stole this from another post on the subject....hehehehe)

Then you can tackle the chlorine.
 
After you have done the PH, and preferably you'll take care of that this afternoon....tonight after dark or first thing in the a.m....

tackle the chlorine.

Your shock level is 16ppm so if your test can't test that high, you'll have problems knowing if you have reached that shock level.

That's about 3 and 1/2 jugs - the 96 oz size. Get the bleach in there to start killing ickies and protecting the water.

Hope this helps, any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

Be sure to continue to run the filter 24/7.
 

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pH can't be a negative number by the definition of pH! Steal a penny is not to be trusted, at least the on you are going to. For more accurate testing results try the Hagan Ace in Manderin and have Blake test your water!
 
waterbear said:
pH can't be a negative number by the definition of pH! Steal a penny is not to be trusted, at least the on you are going to. For more accurate testing results try the Hagan Ace in Manderin and have Blake test your water!
Click to expand...

Waterbear was TOO SPECIFIC for you to ignore the advice.... :shock:
 
I went back to ACE (in OP) after adding the recommend chemicals to bring up my pH and this is my current numbers:

FC: 0
TC: 0.8
CC: 0.8
pH: 7.5
CH: 70
TA: 88
CYA: 40

So now I've moved on to super-chlorination and added (according to poolcalc) 2.9 gallons of 5.25% bleach. How long should I wait before I run back up to ACE to check the FC? I added it about 0930 this AM.
 
This is where having your own high quality test kit would make a huge difference. FC levels only occasionally survive a trip to the pool store intact, and what you really care about right now is the FC level. All of your other numbers look fairly reasonable.

I would add the 2.9 gallons of 5.25% bleach again this evening and then tell us how the water looks in detail tomorrow. Meanwhile, order a good test kit, the TF Test Kit is a great choice, and the Taylor K-2006 is also good.
 
OK, the pool is looking better now. It's more blue/clear/cloudy now, no more green. I can see the main drain and from the deck can see the design on the liner. I received my TF-100 today and decided to test my "skills" or lack thereof with the computer at ace.

My numbers: ACE numbers:
FC: 21 FC: 6.2
TC: 21.5 TC: 6.3
CC: 0.5ish CC: 0.1
pH: 7.3 pH: 7.3
TA: 68? TA: 97
CYA: 35 CYA: 10

Is it normal for my first test results to be so far off or are ACE's numbers so far off?

Either way my chlorine is HIGH. Should I waste some (I need to backwash anyway) and refill to dilute the FC or just waite it out?

I guess I need to know which numbers to use to bring up my TA and CYA.

Thanks again for y'alls patience, I really appreciate it.

Randy
 
mmkay.. did you run 1 set of tests? Try running another, and compare the three.

Be careful when you add your TA drops, one at a time, and swirl in between, be sure you don't lose count. Your test should not end in an "8"....

Same thing with CYA, are you guessing, cause it was somewhere in between 30 and 40?

There is a thread on here that shows a CYA test, with pics. (Thanks to Joyce for finding it)
http://www.taylortechnologies.com/Chemi ... ntentID=44

Also, with the FC test, use enough powder to turn the water pink. The directions say "heaping" but that is subjective. If you add a ton of powder, it's going to take you more drops to turn it clear, I'm thinking? That may be a question for Duraleigh....
 

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