Materials for an island.

Aug 6, 2013
23
Hello,

I am new here but stumbled upon the site in search of how to build a BBQ Island. I have a Big Green Egg and I do not want to have the Egg in the Island but next to it. I want to build sort of an Island that is 4-5 ft long x 2 ft wide. This will give me allot of prep space and allot of storage for all the Egg/serving stuff. I want to to last more than a few years. It will have multiple cabinet doors/drawers. I can get the stainless doors/drawers online.

My questions are for people that make things. This is going on a second story deck and I want this thing movable (in case I need to paint/clean the deck/railing) and I am worried about weight. I would put small casters on it. I am looking into construction materials to build this myself (where I can).

For the outside I am thinking of the fake stone veneer - or real stone veneer if I can find it. The fake stuff is very light. I am not a detailed carpenter so my fine wood working skills would not work for molding and trim.

The top would be a piece of stone (I do not think granite as I want it durable and since it will be uncovered for the most part). The top must be able to accommodate placing the hot grates/ceramic stones on it and must be easy to clean (grease). So either a cut stone which will get very expensive like quartz or possible poor a concrete top and throw some colored dye/rocks/etc into it. I am worried about the weight of the concrete. I could also use a few layers of harveybacker/waterproofing material and tile the top. My concerns are can the tile hold a 200-600 ceramic stone without cracking? Being I live in the northeast will the tile work from the hot humid summers to the freezing cold winters and not crack and especially the grout lines?

My concerns on the framing. Would wood 2x4's be too heavy and should I look at the metal studs? But are they strong enough for a moving cart (not hat ? I would cover the frame/bottom in harveybacker(cement board) and cutout the door/drawers holes. The bottom would have a 3/4 plywood for support as well. I would also have shelves inside possible made of harveybacker or maybe even cheap painted plywood for shelves.

Any other ideas? I want to start this maybe this weekend but I need to make sure my plan is good.

Thanks

Rob
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave:

I built the grill island you see here. The exterior with the exception of the doors and ornamental stars is all cement fiberboard with outdoor ceramic tile on top for the counter. I used 2x4's for the framing and 3/4" plywood for the floor and counter underlayment. Both the floor and the counter underlayment are topped with cement backer board and the 2x4's are covered with what can be best described as metal sleeves which I got at Home Depot (in the lumber section). To get a rigid structure, I used several Simpson Strong Ties throughout the framing (possibly to the point of overkill).

This structure has that built-in look but is movable since it has casters underneath (like these: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_47737_47737). I installed them a bit recessed on the underside of the floor to conceal them a bit. In fact, when we sold our former house (where pic was taken), several people thought it was a built-in and asked if it came with the house.

As for minimizing the change of tiles cracking, you want to use tile that is rated for outdoor use. The same applies for the mastic (tile cement) and grout. That is key to dealing with the elements and associated temperature extremes. Also, making the framing and overall structure as rigid as possible will help as well. I used screws throughout - no nails. The one question I cannot answer, but would be very suspicious about doing, is whether the tiles would crack when you put a very hot item on them. My experience has been that extreme temperature shocks such as that increase the risk of cracks. If it were me, I would place some sort of metal rack on the tiles and set the hot stones on that.

This structure is now 7 years old and made the move to our current house with no cracks. It continues to be used frequently.

Hope this helps.

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Thanks for the response. I can put cooling racks for the stones when needed. I am more worried about the tiles cracking/popping and the grout lines looking like garbage after a few uses. No matter how careful I can be grease WILL get on the grout lines and will stain them. Is there something to use instead?

2x4's would work for the structure but how do I keep them from warping and twisting the frame to make the tiles not pop?

Where did you get the cement fiberboard?
 
robny71 said:
No matter how careful I can be grease WILL get on the grout lines and will stain them. Is there something to use instead?
I sealed the tiles & grout with a semi-gloss tile sealer (available at HD or Lowes and probably other places as well).

robny71 said:
2x4's would work for the structure but how do I keep them from warping and twisting the frame to make the tiles not pop?
I avoided the use of pine 2x4 which are prone to warping. Most other forms of 2x4 should be fine. Also the liberal use of Simpson Strong Ties and the cement backer board will help in this regard.

robny71 said:
Where did you get the cement fiberboard?
Home Depot and/or Lowes
 
I went to the local HD last night - That store is useless. They have almost nothing in stock for this type of project - no fiber/cement boards, no cedar siding or planks. They did have lots of Washing machines for sale though.

I am not sure I can build this as I have never done anything like this.
 
Got any local hometown hardware stores? That is strange they didn't have any cement board. That is a very commonly used product that most big box stores should carry. I can see them no carrying cedar siding as that is probably not something commonly sold everyday. They should be able to order whatever you need though if they have it on their website.
 
Wow yeah strange. Did you look in the lumber section with the plywood? And also they sometimes stock it in or around the tile/flooring section
As for the siding most have a limited selection but usually carry cedar/pine clapboard siding and cedar shake siding as well in a seperate siding area
 

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The had hardiebacker - No outdoor tile (Or at least what the worker said).

Regardless I do not think I can make this they way I want to to be. I can probably make a box but it will not come out nice and will be a waste of money. I would have to buy doors and some stuff premade and that will bring the cost right up there with having a cart made my someone. In that case - no cart as I dont have the money for that.
 
I do not have a login for that site. Are they basic tables? I am looking for storage (hidden). I have allot of accessories (racks, cooking stones) for the Egg that I want to hide and keep out of the elements. Leaving them out will be an eyesore.
 
robny71 said:
No outdoor tile (Or at least what the worker said).
I would either ask someone else or go to a different store. Any big home improvement store or tile shop should have tile that is rated for outdoor use. It may be labeled as "suitable for below freezing temperatures" or similar. That's really the key point.
 
I just do not know how I would build the whole thing at all. I was guessing screwing a frame together and adding hardie backer to the outside would do it. But there is allot more like making it square and sturdy. Shelves - boxing out for doors or making doors. Waterproofing it. I have seen lots of pics of tables and outdoor kitchens but nothing on how to do the true build of making sure it all ties in and how its finished off without looking like junk.
 
The BBQ forum requires a login to see the pictures ( pretty common for forums). That being said, if you are looking for BBQ ideas, that's a good forum to join and look at the ideas. Planning a BBQ or any cabinet requires careful consideration and planning to effectively tile as you need to work backwards from your desired tile size to allow you to use full tiles on the exposed areas.

Good luck!
 
Just a suggestion as you live in the NE where we get freezing temps...how about a stainless steel sheeting top. It can be bent and nailed to fit any countertop. I used ceramic tiles and backerboard. It lasted 1 winter and several cracks. My next one is going to have stainless top. I can cut, chop, wipe off, and put hot on there. Or you could use copper sheeting. As for base as you are not fitting around your egg, perhaps finding an old or cheaper rolling micro cart and adding on a top to size then covering. I have a metal one about 36" wide with a butcherblock top, but I made a slipcover to go over it at 3 !/2 ft wide by 2 1/2 ft deep. It sits over the top and we use that for a bar outside. The metal is great and light and does not need much care.

This is an example not what I have but as it is for a patio this may work great for you and then all you need is a top. You can permanently screw top from underneath if you choose


http://www.jcpenney.com/dotcom/for-the- ... 49198941-2
 

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