Diy pool rehab

May 20, 2008
108
Waldorf, MD
I'm rehabbing my pool.

A quarter of my grout between my flagstone coping is loose and can be picked out. The grout looks just like cement.
Can anyone tell me the exact product I should use to replace the bad grout (see pics)?

I have a couple of loose waterline tiles. What is the exact product to use to reattach these?

If I find loose coping pieces, what product is the "glue" that keeps the coping attached the the pool?

What is the white stuff that shows up on the tile at the water line? Why is it there and how do I get rid of it?

4 years ago before I opened the pool, I threw 4 chlorine pucks in the pool and they sat on the bottom. The pucks made a small area on the bottom of the pool rough and now that area is slightly discolored (brown). How do I fix this? I was thinking about sanding it smooth again.
 

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If the grout is that badly cracked, the flagstone may be loose as well.

Flagstone and your tiles will need to be reset with thinset mortar and then grouted into place.

It sounds like you have not done tile work before.....that a difficult undertaking if you are a rookie.

The white stuff on your blue tile is efflorescence. It is minerals being pushed out by water from behind the tile and the precipitate out on the face of the grout. Mechanical removal and muriatic acid is the fix. It looks like they have been neglected a long time and that will be a big job also.
 
Greetings & Welcome SOTB,
Having just done this job myself this past Friday, Saturday & Monday And after getting quotes from the professionals, I will tell you that you should go ahead and hire a professional to reset your tile, grout and any loose stones. My Professional quotes ran 80-100 dollars LABOR + Materials. While I did a fantastic job - and am proud of my end results, I now know that would have been more cost feasible to have a professional do it instead. -My .02 cents...

My job took me SIX hours labor time (Spread out over three working days) PLUS~
One hour FREE lesson on tile setting at Home Depot on Saturday Morning
What You will be buying:
MEDIUM Dry Mix Thin-set from Home Depot (for large areas of tile that need replacing)
Liquid Nails PL500 LANDSCAPER'S Edition (for one or two tiles and/or Coping stones)
Polyblend Dry Mix SANDED Grout - Match to your existing color.
Caulk Gun for PL500
Disposable plastic putty 1" knife(s) for PL500
Small can of Mineral Spirits - For PL500 cleanup
Small combed towel for Dry Mix Thin-set
Silicon Sealer for Grout
Floater Trowel for Grouting
Rubber Gloves
Safety Goggles
Large Masonry Sponge
Spacers - as needed for Tile placement

If you want to do the job yourself it is entirely possible. I just think that the money "saved" (ha-ha) wasn't worth it. In my case I spent more time & money then I would have if I would have hired one of the Pro's. . .And as Duraleigh pointed out; working on vertical surfaces is difficult for a beginner. Add to that the fact that you are over water, this means you do most you work bent over the edge looking at the work area upside down, and it is in the heat of Summer, Fun? No so much, but if you have only a few spots that you think you can handle then just work off of my parts/materials list for you shopping list.


Regards,
The Cadman & Karen
Las Vegas, NV 89113
 
cadman89113 said:
Greetings & Welcome SOTB,
Having just done this job myself this past Friday, Saturday & Monday And after getting quotes from the professionals, I will tell you that you should go ahead and hire a professional to reset your tile, grout and any loose stones. My Professional quotes ran 80-100 dollars LABOR + Materials. While I did a fantastic job - and am proud of my end results, I now know that would have been more cost feasible to have a professional do it instead. -My .02 cents...

My job took me SIX hours labor time (Spread out over three working days) PLUS~
One hour FREE lesson on tile setting at Home Depot on Saturday Morning
What You will be buying:
MEDIUM Dry Mix Thin-set from Home Depot (for large areas of tile that need replacing)
Liquid Nails PL500 LANDSCAPER'S Edition (for one or two tiles and/or Coping stones)
Polyblend Dry Mix SANDED Grout - Match to your existing color.
Caulk Gun for PL500
Disposable plastic putty 1" knife(s) for PL500
Small can of Mineral Spirits - For PL500 cleanup
Small combed towel for Dry Mix Thin-set
Silicon Sealer for Grout
Floater Trowel for Grouting
Rubber Gloves
Safety Goggles
Large Masonry Sponge
Spacers - as needed for Tile placement

If you want to do the job yourself it is entirely possible. I just think that the money "saved" (ha-ha) wasn't worth it. In my case I spent more time & money then I would have if I would have hired one of the Pro's. . .And as Duraleigh pointed out; working on vertical surfaces is difficult for a beginner. Add to that the fact that you are over water, this means you do most you work bent over the edge looking at the work area upside down, and it is in the heat of Summer, Fun? No so much, but if you have only a few spots that you think you can handle then just work off of my parts/materials list for you shopping list.


Regards,
The Cadman & Karen
Las Vegas, NV 89113

When I had to get my expansion joint caulked, the quote I got was $5 a foot. The joint is 120 feet. $600 to caulk. So I did it myself. I never tried to get a quote on this job, because I figured I would be gouged the same way. If I could pay someone to regrout my 15 to 20 grout lines for less then $200 I would do that in a second.
 
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