HELLLLLLLLLLLLP NEEDED

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bnabod

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Aug 4, 2013
5
never thought I would need help but here I am I admit it I have no idea what to do anymore.
a week ago the pool was clear and was running fine all summer. it is a 20,000 g chlorine pool
On Wed it started getting cloudy then Thursday it was like milk.
I got the pool tested and here were the results on Thursday:

FC 0.77
TC 0.77
CC 0
CYA 14
pH 7
CA 167
Total Alkalinity 35
And told my phosphate was off the chart.

So I shocked it then got it retested Friday and
FC went to 2.7
I added home depot phosphate remover on saturday morning.
Water today is clearer today but I can see little particles floating in it all over and cannot see the deep end bottom.
definitely not something you would want to swim in.

I have added clarifier earlier this morning and it said on the bottle to let it run min 8 hours but really does not look any better now than this morning.

I have been having issues with Algea and shocking does not seem to work very well.
I understand my CYA is low but hesitating putting any stabs in the pool since I use pucs and their should be some in it.

Any thoughts on un cloudying this pool??????????

thanks in advance :hammer:
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! Do you know what was used to test the water? Those are some pretty unbelievable numbers. What have you been using to chlorinate your pool so far?

Some info for you. Algaecides do not kill algae blooms. They can help prevent algae from getting a foothold, but once a bloom has occurred they do very little to clear the pool. Liquid chlorine at shock level is the best way to clear an algae bloom. Here at TFP we call it the slam process.

Likewise, clarifyers will not kill an algae bloom, nor do they necessarily speed things up to clear the pool once all the algae has been killed. Clarifyers affect the surface tension of the water, so fine debris sinks to the bottom where they can be vacuumed up instead of floating on top of the water. They are helpful if your skimmer is ineffective, but not much good for anything else.

A flocculent might help clear debris a little quicker once the slam process is completed, but most of the time there is no need for one. Flocculents will cause debris to clump together and fall to the bottom, making it easier to vacuum out. You pretty much have to be able to vacuum to waste as the clumped debris will clog a filter very quickly.
 
1. You should stop throwing stuff in the pool that is doing you no good....chlorine will clear your pool.

2. To follow what we teach correctly, you will need a High-end test kit that can test for FC levels up to 50+ (FAS/DPD test)

3 .read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

4. read "SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain" in the How To section of Pool School

5. When you have enough chlorine on hand, say like 15 gallons to start, SLAM the pool to crystal clear.

All this stuff works (keep reading on this forum) and there are hundreds here to guide you through it but you have to give up the old ways of tossing stuff in the pool and hoping it helps. Follow the SLAM process to a T and your pool will clear.
 
zea3 said:
Hi, welcome to TFP! Do you know what was used to test the water? Those are some pretty unbelievable numbers. What have you been using to chlorinate your pool so far?

A flocculent might help clear debris a little quicker once the slam process is completed, but most of the time there is no need for one. Flocculents will cause debris to clump together and fall to the bottom, making it easier to vacuum out. You pretty much have to be able to vacuum to waste as the clumped debris will clog a filter very quickly.
Click to expand...

I use a mixture of bleach and pucs as to not get my CYA too high but obviously this year CYA has not been an issue.
To shock I have used liquid shock Sodium Hypochlorite (today alone put 2 gallon in it) and CA Hypochlorite (2 bags).

I was wondering about the flocculent since I see white particles which I suspect is dead algae. Used it before and worked well but not sure if I need it this time or if I should wait
 
duraleigh said:
1. You should stop throwing stuff in the pool that is doing you no good....chlorine will clear your pool.

2. To follow what we teach correctly, you will need a High-end test kit that can test for FC levels up to 50+ (FAS/DPD test)

3 .read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School

4. read "SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain" in the How To section of Pool School

5. When you have enough chlorine on hand, say like 15 gallons to start, SLAM the pool to crystal clear.

All this stuff works (keep reading on this forum) and there are hundreds here to guide you through it but you have to give up the old ways of tossing stuff in the pool and hoping it helps. Follow the SLAM process to a T and your pool will clear.
Click to expand...

You know the whole time I have been telling myself this, the only reason it is not clear is because there is simply not enough Chlorine in the pool period. I looked at SLAM and looks like I started slamming today wo really knowing it. I put in 2 gallons of liquid shock and 2 bags of granules shock Ca(ClO)2, then ran the pool for a while tested it then backwashed then ran some more. I need to get more liquid shock and will be at it again tomorrow.

Last year I only used bleach and borax and should I say copper sulfate and never had any issues.
 
duraleigh said:
Ditch that copper sulfate....you could have huge staining issues. Chlorine will keep your pool clear, you don't need anything else.
Click to expand...

ok will do.
In the event the suspension of white deal algae does not go away is it then appropriate to use a flocculant? Will the act of shocking the pool to death and gradually toning it down as I understand per SLAM remove the dead algae along with proper filtering and backwashing?
 
Don't use the floc....you don't need it and it hurts about as often as it helps. Don't think of it as shocking the pool "to death" but rather elevating your chlorine in a very controlled, safe manner to eliminate the organics from your pool. Once done, you then maintain your pool normally.

1. You cannot SLAM properly without an FAS/DPD chlorine test.

2. Follow the SLAM article precisely...don't wing it....you will probably fail.
 

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happyheathen said:
Vacuum to Waste?

Sounds quite handy - how does one do this?
Click to expand...


if your pump is running, stop it, then turn the knob to "waste" on the multiport valve, then hook your vacuum hose to the skimmer and go for it. be advise that you will lose quite a bit of water but works well imo.
to everyone else my real pool kit has been ordered. I have been watching my chlorine level with what I have now to try to maintain the chlorine level the best I can and my pool is officially clear so I am going to keep a very close eye on it. been testing it 3 times a day now with old kit to get an idea of how much chlorine i am losing every day.
 
Thanks!
.

I suspected that was a function this thing does not support - no multiport valve - this has 2 "A or B" valves - one to select pump intake (pool or spa) and one to select output (pool or spa).
I could route the vacuum to the spa (use it as a waste bucket) and use the sump pump to dispose of it.

This is a cartridge filter - no provision to back-flush.
 
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