cleaning up algae bloom

engrav

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Jul 4, 2012
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Whidbey Island, WA
So was out for 3 days and returned to find pump not working and pool yellow/green/brown. So had the pump fixed, adjusted pH, brushed, and put in 5.5# hypochlorite.

Three questions emerged.

1) After one hour FC was 24 and CC zero. Why is CC zero?

2) What is the max FC ok to swim in? (not that I will be swimming, just wondering)

3) On this page it suggests to add DE to sand to speed up filtering. I asked the pump fix person who said since you have glass and no DE membrane, at the the next backwash your DE will be gone. You all agree?

thank you
 
CC is not always generated when killing algae. You can swim up to your shock level. We don't recomend using the DE trick until the end of the SLAM process to help filter any remaining bits.
 
woodyp said:
CC is not always generated when killing algae. You can swim up to your shock level. We don't recomend using the DE trick until the end of the SLAM process to help filter any remaining bits.

1) would seem true, after 4hrs still have FC24 CC0 but...
at the start was yellow/green/brown but somewhat translucent, could see bottom vaguely
now is still yellow/green/brown but opaque
hope that is progress

2) Ok, thanks

3) so do DE at the end but the DE will be removed at the next backwash?
 
Beens said:
Yes, DE gets flushed out when you backwash and you have to add it again if you still want it....
(another tidbit from my limited experience)

thank you
perhaps that should be in the Pool School document (or did I miss it)

so I suppose could also use the stuff that turns teeny things into less teeny things
if so, is any one better than the others
 
For this situation regular DE will work just fine. Usually comes in a 25# bag. Just don't breath it in, not good for ya,as it is the consentency of flour.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
 
pwrstrk said:
For this situation regular DE will work just fine. Usually comes in a 25# bag. Just don't breath it in, not good for ya,as it is the consentency of flour.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.

so to get the last fine stuff is DE in the filter better than the products that assemble teeny things into clumps that are less teeny, like Super Blue
 

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thank you
perhaps that should be in the Pool School document (or did I miss it)
engrav said:
Beens wrote:
Yes, DE gets flushed out when you backwash and you have to add it again if you still want it....
(another tidbit from my limited experience)

It's in there, albeit worded a bit differently
Add DE to a Sand Filter - Pool School article said:
Small amounts of DE can be added to a sand filter after each backwash to improve the filtering.
 
Beens said:
Don't add clarifier or flocculant.... you probably won't need it...and they frown upon all those "extras" here. I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will have some input on that.

Ok, no Super Blue, and don't need the DE now either as I am early in the slam

will check FC CC again in a few hours

I hope FC is still high, hard to find Ca hypochlorite on Whidbey Island

I just noticed there are 217 users online. That is lots of people with troublefree pools. :)
 
Clarifier & flocculant won't necessarily hurt anything. However they are nearly always a waste of time and money. The cloudiness after shocking (a.k.a., SLAMming) is the remnants of the now dead algae. It just takes time for it to get filtered out. You should see a noticeable improvement in clarity each day. Towards the end of the clearing process, the DE will help remove the remaining smaller particles more quickly. You could also use cellulose fiber (e.g., ZeoFiber or FiberClear) if you have concerns about using DE or your municipality forbids backwashing DE into the sewer system. Cellulose fiber is added to the filter in the same manner as DE. Like DE, it is removed during backwashing.
 
episode is over, pool is clear, all is fine

was clear in about 72 hours with slamming and glass filter

what micron size does glass remove? I see various numbers on the web.

thank you
 
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