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Thread: Blue water but cloudy

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    Blue water but cloudy

    Hi Everyone,

    I've been lurking here for over a year and this site has been immensely helpful. I ordered by TF-100 kit and feel in control of my pool. This season has been the easiest season so far for me. The other day I had 6 teenage kids in the pool and unfortunately didn't drop any shock in the pool that evening. I woke up to a cloudy pool - its blue, but cloudy. I cannot see the drains in the deep end of the pool.

    The FC at the time was non-existent, So I dumped 3 gallons of liquid cholorine in the pool. I dumped another 2 gallons in the pool this afternoon. About 6hrs later, here are my numbers:

    FC - 10
    TC - 10
    pH - 7.6
    TA - 180
    CH - 400
    CYA - 20

    So, I realize the FC is a little low for shock level (based against the CYA levels).

    My questions are the following:

    1. Should I be concerned about the TA and CH levels?
    2. Is the cloudyness just because something is 'growing' in my water, hence I need to shock it?
    3. My PH has been extremely stable the entire season.


    18,000 gallon outdoor kidney shaped in-ground 17'x34' gunnite pool
    with attached 8' hottub; Pentair CCP320 with cartridges; Pentair Pool & Spa Heater

  2. Back To Top    #2
    pwrstrk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Elverson Pa.

    Re: Blue water but cloudy

    Welcome to TFP.

    What is your CC ? With the FC dropping to zero you prop got the start of something. You could also do the OCLT test to confirm. Better read the SLAM process to get ready if you have to.

    After everything is corrected raise your CYA level to 30-50 ppm.

    24'x54" AG Morada RTR (by wilbar) 13'500 gal. Hayward Powerflo Matrix 1hp 2 speed. Hayward Perflex EC65 DE filter.

  3. Back To Top    #3
    BoDarville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    DFW, Texas

    Re: Blue water but cloudy

    Welcome to TFP!

    Wouldn't worry about CH and TA until you have the FC and CYA situation under control. Chlorine (FC) constantly gets used up as a result of performing its job as a sanitizer. Organic contaminants are constantly trying to gain a foothold in all pools. However, chlorine kills them off before you ever notice anything. The price of that protection is that chlorine gets used up from doing this as well as sunlight. Therefore, it needs to be replenished frequently (usually daily) during the swim season. Would suggest looking at these articles for more information: ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry, Basic Pool Care Schedule, Chlorine CYA Chart

    Your current FC level is more than adequate, given your current CYA of 20. However, I am a bit concerned about how the chlorine is being added:
    Quote Originally Posted by neatoman
    So I dumped 3 gallons of liquid cholorine in the pool. I dumped another 2 gallons in the pool this afternoon.
    You may have spikes where FC is sufficient, followed by periods where it is low. Would suggest using the Pool Calculator to help with the precision and timing of your FC additions.

    Like pwrstrk, I would also suggest increasing CYA to the 30-50 ppm range. In addition ,you may need to go through The SLAM Process

    A couple of things to help us help you...
    • 1. Please add to your profile the state and nearest city in which you live. Donít need specific town, nearest major city is fine. Your climate is important to the advice you receive. By doing this, it will appear in all your posts without you having to enter it each time.
      2. Suggest adding information about your pool and related equipment in your signature. By doing this, it will automatically appear in all your posts so you do not have to re-enter it each time. If you have a SWG, please include those letters in your signature so it stands out as the advice for SWG vs. non-SWG is often different.
    Here's how to do both of the above: Adding location to your profile and pool info to your signature.
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

  4. Back To Top    #4
    UN1017's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Sacramento, CA

    Re: Blue water but cloudy

    1. Yes. But there is no rush.
    2. Most likely. If you dumped in 5 gallons of bleach over a short period, that would put you at an FC of 28. If you have already fallen to 10. You are losing it pretty fast.

    You need to SLAM your pool. And ditto what pwrstrk said above on boosting your CYA. You will have a hard time holding onto your chlorine without increasing that.
    15'x30' IG - Roman-style - 14K - Pebble Fina Classico
    Filter: Jandy CL460 Pump: Jandy Stealth SHPF1.5 SWG: Jandy AquaPure 1400 Cleaner: Jandy RayVac Test Kit: TF-100 w/SpeedStir

    Chlorine/CYA Chart----Extended Test Kit Directions----SLAM

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