Introduction: First time member

[timitot]

Hello from Moberly, Mo,

This is my third year of having a pool. We started off with the 48"x15' round Intex utilizing the standard chemicals and the pump that came with the pool. After fighting the first 2 seasons with trying to manage the pool water, which is difficult enough even for an experienced person, I dreaded season 3. So I didn't even mess with it. I replaced my pool this year with the Intex 48"x18' round pool and reverted to a saltwater system. I also converted to a sand filter system. I have a couple of questions:
1) My pool did not come with a skimmer as the one before had. However, my sandfilter does have the skimmer basket. Do I really need to have a skimmer in the pool itself? If so, would you recommend I install the wall skimmer. I hate the hanging type.

2) I run the Intex 54601EG SWG with a flow rate of 1,650GPH as well as the Intex 56673EG 14inch Sand Filter System with a 1/2hp pump and a 1,600GPH flow rate.
Is this a sufficient system with my pool? I believe it is as long as I run at least 6hr cycles.

3) I am debating on upgrading next season to a larger pool, possibly 48"x24ft. Will my current system be sufficient for the upgrade? If not, what would be
recommended?

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, timitot

1) My pool did not come with a skimmer as the one before had. However, my sandfilter does have the skimmer basket. Do I really need to have a skimmer in the pool itself? If so, would you recommend I install the wall skimmer. I hate the hanging type.

Surface skimming helps get the stuff into the filter before it sinks to the bottom. It is not absolutely necessary, but it does help a lot. If you are thinking of upgrading, I would wait...but if not, I would at least get one of the intex that hangs on the wall type of skimmers.

2) I run the Intex 54601EG SWG with a flow rate of 1,650GPH as well as the Intex 56673EG 14inch Sand Filter System with a 1/2hp pump and a 1,600GPH flow rate.
Is this a sufficient system with my pool? I believe it is as long as I run at least 6hr cycles.

Those should be fine for your current pool other than that pump might struggle supplying a high enough flow rate for a suction side vacuum.

3) I am debating on upgrading next season to a larger pool, possibly 48"x24ft. Will my current system be sufficient for the upgrade? If not, what would be
recommended?

That filter will be undersized at 14 inches. We would recommend a minimum of a 20" filter for that pool. A larger pump would be needed as well.

 

[timitot]

As I am a novice the pool care and don't really understand most of the chemistry of pool water maintenance, I wanted to ask, besides the range of test chemicals included in the "complete" test
kits are the chemicals all the same? Test strips are useless of course. I purchased a 4 way test kit from Ace Hardware that tests ch/ph/ta and acid demand. My reasoning was to become familiar with those basics that affect everything else. I assume the chemicals in these are the same as in the Taylors, etc. and do test accurately? Please advise.

Maybe I'm wrong.

 

[chem geek]

The chemicals in the TFTestkits test kits are the same ones found in the Taylor test kits (for corresponding tests and vial sizes -- pH reagent in TFTestkits corresponds to the K-1000 Taylor pH test), but other test kits from other manufacturers do not use identical reagents -- so LaMotte, HTH, etc. Generally speaking, the drop-based tests are OK from these other manufacturers but they are not exactly the same. Some of these non-Taylor kits do not use the proprietary blend of chlorine neutralizers in their pH test reagent so the other tests can have the pH test much more affected by the chlorine level, for example. The test vial sizes are not all the same with the other manufacturers so the concentration of reagents are different in those cases.

So you can certainly get familiar with the tests in a 4-way kit, but the reagents won't carry over to the TFTestkits TF-100 or Taylor K-2006 that I presume you will soon purchase. You can, of course, use the 4-way kit reagents with the 4-way kit test vials/comparator. You can also use the acid/base demand drops to simply move the pH up and down, but you may not be able to use the counted number of drops in the acid/base demand tables if you use them in a different kit -- the acid/base demand test isn't the only way to figure out how to adjust pH and you can use The Pool Calculator to figure out how much of a chemical you need to add to a pool to get the water chemistry values you desire.

 

[timitot]

I keep reading about different SWG users discnnecting their copper panels. Are they referring to the copper piece at the return end of the electrolytic cell that lifts out. If so..what is the purpose of doing that? That is supposed to assist in killing algae isn't it? Help

 

[JohnN]

Copper isn't necessary in a properly chlorinated pool, and it causes more problems than it solves. If the copper level gets too high, it can cause staining or turn hair green.

 

[timitot]

But I am of the understanding that the copper plate is electrically charged and in that way kills algae causing bacteria. I don't pretend to understand how it works, that's just how I understood the manual. I was not of the impression that it would add copper to the water. That wouldn't make any sense to me knowing how copper affects the pool water and pool itself.

 

[Bama Rambler]

The electrical charge on the copper plate actually causes the plates to "corrode" and release copper ions into the bulk water. It's the ions that inhibit algae growth. That means that copper is in the bulk pool water and when enough of it gets released into the water it causes hair to turn green and stains on pool surfaces. Since you have to have chlorine in the pool anyway, and it doesn't need any help in killing the algae, the copper doesn't add anything but problems.

 

[timitot]

Okay Dave, you've convinced me. What is the best way to eliminate the copper plate? The plate actually unplugs from the corded threaded cap but I can't remove it and just screw the cap back on because, of course the exposed plug would be exposed to the water. I really don't want to cut it off. I wonder if it would work to remove the copper plate and cover the cap with plastic, then screwing it back onto the port? I may have just answered my own question.

 

[Bama Rambler]

If you just unplug the cable from it, it will cut down on about 99.5% of the copper it adds to the pool. Most people just unplug it and leave it in place.

 

[timitot]

Thanks Dave...I do have one more question for you if you don't mind. Should I or should I not be able to taste the salt in the pool water. The manual on the SWCG says you shouldn't taste the salt. I personally question the manual in this but I don't know. If it is correct that I shouldn't taste the salt, then I would say I have too much salt in my pool since I can taste it. However, I get a low salt reading between run times. I cleaned the SWCG about a month ago with vinegar and flushed it well. What factors can cause a false low salt (or high salt) reading?

 

[Bama Rambler]

Tasting the salt is strictly an individual thing. Some people can taste it at fairly low concentrations and others not until it gets above 6,000 ppm or more. You being able to taste the salt isn't an indicator either way.

You should have it tested at a local pool store.

 

[timitot]

Okay I will do that. Thanks a bunch.

 

[timitot]

I have seen a few AG Intex pools being left up year round. Of course the water is drained down below both the outflow and return ports, all pumping and filtering units are drained and stored and the pool is covered. The ones I have talked to have not noted any problem and continue to leave their's up all year and use the each summer. I do not know how long most of them had had their pools so I don't know if they will be affected after a couple of years being left up. What is your opinion on this and do I need to do anything to the water if I decide to leave it up?

 

[Bama Rambler]

There are a lot of people that leave their Intex pools up all year and in worse climates than yours. I'd get a good cover for it, but other than that, just follow the closing guide.

 

[timitot]

Besides lowering the water level below the ports and storing the pumping and filtering equipment, what is involved with closing my pool for the winter if I am leaving it up? Is there anything I need to add to the water? If so, what do I add and how much for my pool?

 

[linen]

There is a good pool school article on it here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/winterizing and closing your above group pool I highly recommend a winter cover that is light blocking.

 

[msgtdan]

While I agree with linen on most things , I consider a cover optional. Of course I don't have any trees to drop leaves in the pool, and I like looking at it in the winter. I didn't cover last winter, closed late and opened early. I did have to scoop a few leaves that blew in from across the road, and I had a small bit of algae start on a warm few days in mid March. I added chlorine and brushed well, the pool refroze the next day. I opened on March 31st, SLAMed for 2 days only losing 6-7 ppm before passing the OCLT with no cc's and clear water. I plan on doing the same this year, but that's me in my situation YMMV.

 

[timitot]

Low/High Salt alarm with SWCG

My low salt indicator light comes on when my pump and SWG are in sleep mode. How do I know exactly how much salt to put in the pool? A 40lb bag of salt isn't always needed surely, but I do believe that is what the manual states. I've read on other posts about false low salt readings being affected by cold, etc. How do I know if it is a faulty reading or an accurate one? Is it only supposed to come on when the system is in sleep mode? As far as I know I don't have any reason to question my system. It's just my unfamilirity with it.