Pool pilot digital- check/clean cell

[Mikep080982]

Since the beginning of May I've had the "check/ clean cell" message flash. It does continue to make chlorine but at a 98% production rate. I need to know what my next steps should be. Here is what I've done thus far: (pool is 12,500 gal)
1. Tested salt from pool store: 3100 ppm. Reading is the same on pool pilot
2. Replaced cell. Still have warning light. I did set " replace cell" back to 0 in maintenance menu
3. Checked 220v coming into Pool system. Pool pilot is wired correctly to 220, and the breakers are working fine to not produce 110v
4. Water temp 86 degrees
5. Cell Reading: 17v 3.8 Amps

I have had a tech come out, and he says I should get a whole new system, because he believes the power module is fried. Should I:
1. Get a new power module? Part #16084 -$320
2. Go for a whole new unit. I would go Nano because it would handle my needs just fine $650
3. Replace cell cord first $55
4. Does it hurt to continue to use since its making chlorine? - $0
5. Something else....
As you can see, money is top of mind. Let me know your thoughts.
Thank you!

 

[JasonLion]

I would definitely try replacing the cell cord before doing anything else. The cords fail more often than the main unit does, though it could be either one. Generally the cords start to look "burnt" near the connection to the cell when they are failing, but that doesn't happen every time.

There is no harm in continuing to use it as it is. There is a fair chance it will stop working eventually, but nothing is going to break that hasn't already started to break.

One thing, could you try the volts and amps readout again, but this time make certain that the cell has been on for at least a minute before reading out the numbers? The 17v 3.8A reading you got is not normal, unless it happened shortly after the cell was powered up.

 

[Poolsean]

probably the power module. A failed cell cord will show Low Amps/Cell? Check/Clean Cell is usually due to cold water (but not at 84 degrees), low salt (but not at 3200 ppm), scaled or failing cell (you have a new cell but recheck and make sure it's not scaled). Under these conditions, your voltage should rise then lower the amperage. In this case the voltage is low, as well as the amperage, which leads to the power module. You were correct to verify the voltage to the unit as 110 volts going to a unit wired for 220 volts can also show the same error.
Finally, as Jason recommended, retest, but make sure you have it in boost for about a minute before running the TEST POOL PILOT.

If you remove the top cover and inner metal cover, and inspect the power module, more specificially around the capacitors along the upper left quadrant of the board, the tops of the capacitors should be flat. If it's bowed or swollen, then the capacitors are damaged.

 

[Mikep080982]

Thank you so much Sean. I cant get a picture up loaded because the file is to big. The capacitors are the 5 large cylinder objects correct? 3/5 look bowed out. Thanks again

 

[Poolsean]

Yes, it's the large cylinder objects. There are several posts in which Pool Pilot owners have replaced the capacitors and soldered new capacitors to get their systems back in operation, which would be the most cost effective method (if you're competent/confident in working with electronic components)

 

[MrBrent]

I had a simular situation but I did't change out the cell. I purchased the 4 capacitors and replaced them today and it works like a charm. If you can try this repair before spending lots of money on a new board. :-D

 

[Mikep080982]

Too late.....