I am sure there is a post somewhere that has all the answers to my questions. But the 2 3 pages i've read through they are not there. I had a 30' cabana AGP installed this weekend. I am an absolute beginner pool owner! I have 2 hoses filling it up as we speak, and am running the electric for the pump tomorrow morning! What I am asking is whats next? Do i shock the pool? I understand I have to buy a better test kit and list my numbers on here, but when is the pool swimmable? What do I put in out of the startup kit that came with the pool? What other information do you need to help me out? I just want a crystal clear pool! Also, with the aqua smart filtration system can I still start the BBB program? Any tips, info, advice on owning a pool would be much appreciated!
Filling pool as we speak, now what?
- Thread starter Jfoeller0103
- Start date
What you have to add depends on what your current results are. If your pH is high, you will need acid. If your pH is low, you will need Borax. If your pH is good, you don't have to add anything. You will need to add chlorine (bleach, no solid forms of chlorine), enough to get you to 2 ppm. What are the chemicals you have for your start up program? Some of them you may need, some of them may cause more harm than help.
You will definitely need stabilizer. A good test kit is a must have. TF 100 all the way.
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While you are waiting on your kit, read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. It'll teach you stuff you HAVE TO know.
This type of post comes up alot. Need a stickie for first fills.
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Pool School will be refined, clarified and improved over time but stickies are far too often overused and subsequently overlooked.
How long will it take to get a test kit in from these sites? Can i wait to test until one comes in or do I need to go to local pool store to get one immediately? Could the pool be swimmable by wednesday? The chemicals provided are :
4 1lb bags Conditioner
1 lb bag Ph minus
1 lb bag Ph plus
1 lb bag Blast
32 oz jug of pool perfect+phosfree
4 1lb bags Conditioner
1 lb bag Ph minus
1 lb bag Ph plus
1 lb bag Blast
32 oz jug of pool perfect+phosfree
It won't take long to get. Become a lifetime member and you'll get a discount.
You can use that stuff to get started. I would t use the phosfree. Then use our methods.
You can use the pool calc to figure out your levels. http://www.poolcalculator.com/
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You can use that stuff to get started. I would t use the phosfree. Then use our methods.
You can use the pool calc to figure out your levels. http://www.poolcalculator.com/
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
Also, where is the best place to order this test kit? And I only need 1 that will complete all necessary tests correct?
Jfoeller0103:
Welcome to TFP!
Step 1: If you do not already have one of the Recommended Test Kits, I would stop what you're doing and order it right now. Seriously...it's that important. It will save you time and money by preventing many of the problems that will cost you big $ to correct, not to mention help extend the life of your pool and equipment.
I would also suggest reading these articles to give you a good overview of managing your pool: ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry, and Chlorine CYA Chart. As a new pool owner, the first subject to gain a solid understanding of is the chlorine/CYA relationship. Chlorine gets used up daily as part of the normal process of doing its job sanitizing a pool. The amount of chlorine needed is dependent on the CYA level. Another good resource is the Pool Calculator. This will help you determine dosing amounts.
While you are filling your pool (if you have a test kit), test the pH of the fill water. If it is above 7.8, you will need Muriatic Acid (MA) or dry acid to lower the pH once the pool is filled. If the fill water is below 7.2, you will need Soda Ash or Borax to raise pH. If the fill water pH is between 7.2 and 7.8, you're good for now.
So, once you get the pool filled up, I would have the following on hand for sure: Plain liquid bleach (unscented with no "special thickeners") and stabilizer (CYA). Look for stabilizer that is 100% cyanuric acid (CYA). I have found it at Lowe's in reasonably small quantities. The bleach you can get virtually anywhere.
If needed based on the pH of the fill water, get Muriatic Acid (to lower pH) or Soda Ash/Borax (to raise pH).
Aim for an initial CYA amount of 30 ppm (use Pool Calculator to help determine dosing amount for you pool). Then place the stabilizer in an old sock (or similar implement) and place it in the skimmer. It will take about a week for the stabilizer to show up in your test results. After adding the CYA, then add chlorine - aim for about 4-5 ppm. Again, the Pool Calculator will help with the dosing amounts. Always have the pump on when adding chemicals.
As for pH, if your fill water is between 7.2 and 7.8, just test it a few times a week and adjust up or down as needed. The pH in most pools tends to drift up or down rather consistently. In my case, it drifts up slightly so I have MA on hand.
Welcome to TFP!
Step 1: If you do not already have one of the Recommended Test Kits, I would stop what you're doing and order it right now. Seriously...it's that important. It will save you time and money by preventing many of the problems that will cost you big $ to correct, not to mention help extend the life of your pool and equipment.
I would also suggest reading these articles to give you a good overview of managing your pool: ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry, and Chlorine CYA Chart. As a new pool owner, the first subject to gain a solid understanding of is the chlorine/CYA relationship. Chlorine gets used up daily as part of the normal process of doing its job sanitizing a pool. The amount of chlorine needed is dependent on the CYA level. Another good resource is the Pool Calculator. This will help you determine dosing amounts.
While you are filling your pool (if you have a test kit), test the pH of the fill water. If it is above 7.8, you will need Muriatic Acid (MA) or dry acid to lower the pH once the pool is filled. If the fill water is below 7.2, you will need Soda Ash or Borax to raise pH. If the fill water pH is between 7.2 and 7.8, you're good for now.
So, once you get the pool filled up, I would have the following on hand for sure: Plain liquid bleach (unscented with no "special thickeners") and stabilizer (CYA). Look for stabilizer that is 100% cyanuric acid (CYA). I have found it at Lowe's in reasonably small quantities. The bleach you can get virtually anywhere.
If needed based on the pH of the fill water, get Muriatic Acid (to lower pH) or Soda Ash/Borax (to raise pH).
Aim for an initial CYA amount of 30 ppm (use Pool Calculator to help determine dosing amount for you pool). Then place the stabilizer in an old sock (or similar implement) and place it in the skimmer. It will take about a week for the stabilizer to show up in your test results. After adding the CYA, then add chlorine - aim for about 4-5 ppm. Again, the Pool Calculator will help with the dosing amounts. Always have the pump on when adding chemicals.
As for pH, if your fill water is between 7.2 and 7.8, just test it a few times a week and adjust up or down as needed. The pH in most pools tends to drift up or down rather consistently. In my case, it drifts up slightly so I have MA on hand.
This is unnecessary since phosphates are a non-issue in a properly chlorinated pool.Jfoeller0103 said:
Try not to over-think things. A properly chlorinated pool based on your CYA level will prevent contaminants from invading your pool without the use of anything else. It really is that simple.
Thanks all for the feedback! I am very lucky to have stumbled upon this site, VERY helpful! The only thing im still unclear of is the chlorination. I dont think i fully understand the BBB system. My pool came with an aqua smart filtration system, which is for the chlorine correct? now do i still use that in conjunction with the bleach, borax, muratic acid etc. or are the aqua smart cartridges enough, or should i not use the cartridges at all and just use the BBB chemicals? I need to come back once my test kits is in and readings are up. Im sorry if im asking unnecessary questions! You all are awesome!!
Do the aqua smart carts have a list of what's in them? Not being familiar with that system, my guess would be you may find copper, zinc, and probably silver in them. Not what I'd want in my pool.
The aquasmart system uses copper, which is great if you don't mind green hair and a stained liner. Copper is a great algaecide, but it does nothing to oxidize bather wastes and dead skin, nor will it kill germs and viruses in the water quick enough to prevent transmission between swimmers. You really need to decide before that pool fills if you're going to use the BBB philosophy or the aquasmart philosophy and stick to one or the other. They're not compatible. What that mineral system costs could pay for a primo test kit and probably the chemicals you'd need for the rest of the summer, with change left over.
The pool can easily be made ready for swimming before Wednesday. Assuming that "conditioner" is really cyanuric acid, you can be adding that now. But read the labels on everything you have - the names are marketing; there's no standard definition on pool chemicals. It could be anything.
To get to 30 CYA, which is the bare minimum, http://www.poolcalculator.com/ says you need about 6 lbs of stabilizer. Measure that into an old sock or pair of nylons, tie it up securely, and suspend it in the hose stream. If it's not fully dissolved when the filling is done, move it in front of a return or let it bob around tied to a floating pool toy.
When the pump is running, add about 3 quarts of plain Chlorox bleach and a half hour after that, check pH and add whichever chemical you need to get it in range.
30 minutes after that, I'd call it swimmable.
Of course there will be fine tuning and more tests, and more bleach will be needed daily. That "Blast" stuff might be dichlor or trichlor, which could also be used for chlorination initially, since you already own it. But be aware that they add more stabilizer and also lower pH.
If you order from http://tftestkits.net, you will likely have the kit in your paws Wednesday or Thursday. Run a full battery of tests and post the results and someone will be along to coach you.
The pool can easily be made ready for swimming before Wednesday. Assuming that "conditioner" is really cyanuric acid, you can be adding that now. But read the labels on everything you have - the names are marketing; there's no standard definition on pool chemicals. It could be anything.
To get to 30 CYA, which is the bare minimum, http://www.poolcalculator.com/ says you need about 6 lbs of stabilizer. Measure that into an old sock or pair of nylons, tie it up securely, and suspend it in the hose stream. If it's not fully dissolved when the filling is done, move it in front of a return or let it bob around tied to a floating pool toy.
When the pump is running, add about 3 quarts of plain Chlorox bleach and a half hour after that, check pH and add whichever chemical you need to get it in range.
30 minutes after that, I'd call it swimmable.
Of course there will be fine tuning and more tests, and more bleach will be needed daily. That "Blast" stuff might be dichlor or trichlor, which could also be used for chlorination initially, since you already own it. But be aware that they add more stabilizer and also lower pH.
If you order from http://tftestkits.net, you will likely have the kit in your paws Wednesday or Thursday. Run a full battery of tests and post the results and someone will be along to coach you.
Alright, well the pool is filling and should be full by tomorrow night they said. It came with some generic test strips in a tube, here is what the water from the hose is at.
PH 8.2
Free chlorine 0
total alkalinity 140
cyanauric acid 0
As far as the bags that came with the starter kit, they dont really say what exactly is in them. Just that the conditioner contains cyaunaric acid... guess the next step is to wait for pool to fill, the pump to start (which i bought an adapter to run off extension cord for now), and the full test to be done!
PH 8.2
Free chlorine 0
total alkalinity 140
cyanauric acid 0
As far as the bags that came with the starter kit, they dont really say what exactly is in them. Just that the conditioner contains cyaunaric acid... guess the next step is to wait for pool to fill, the pump to start (which i bought an adapter to run off extension cord for now), and the full test to be done!
Once you get your pump running you can start working on Richard's suggestions. There must be an active ingredient list for each of those, either on the bags or on the box they came in. Most likely the conditioner is just CYA so, per Richard's instructions you can add all of that and will likely need more later. The pH minus should be dry acid and you can use that to lower your pH. Use the pool calculator (see my signature) to see how much to bring your pH down closer to 7.5.
Find out what that BLAST is. If it is dichlor or trichlor you can use it to add chlorine and bring your CYA up. It's a 1 time thing, after that you want to stick to liquid chlorine for the most part.
Throw the pool perfect away and unplug your aquasmarte system. Start this pool off right and you won't regret it!
Find out what that BLAST is. If it is dichlor or trichlor you can use it to add chlorine and bring your CYA up. It's a 1 time thing, after that you want to stick to liquid chlorine for the most part.
Throw the pool perfect away and unplug your aquasmarte system. Start this pool off right and you won't regret it!