Help in restoring green pool

MDP

0
May 17, 2013
68
Hello Everybody,

I am very new to this forum and really liking this! Currently working on clearing up a green pool, hope you can help:

1. Pool was a swamp (not even green, it was brown when I started!)
2. Vinyl pool, 18,000 gallons, above ground, sand filter, brand new pump
3. Added lots of tablets, liquid chlorine, granular shock (after mixing in water), algaecide, water clearer, SUPERCHLORINATOR 56 etc.
4. Leaf mastered it, extracted lots of stuff from bottom
5. Have been running the pump continuously for 3 weeks
6. Water cleared up somewhat (better when I had started), but the pool is still green, can't see the bottom
7. Here are the latest numbers :FC - 5, TC - 5, Cal Hard. - 150, Cya Acid - 60, Total Alk - 90, Ph - 7.8, Copper - 0, Iron -- 0

Questions:

1. What do I need to do to clear up the pool?
2. Is it safe to run the pump continuously (I stop them for couple of hours every 2-3 days so that it does not burn)

Thanks and really appreciate your kind help.........
 
1. Stop purchasing things for your pool that are not needed....we'll help you get your pool clear very simply.

2..read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School......read it and make sure you understand the normal ranges we teach and how to adjust to get them there.

3. Lower your pH down around 7.4

4. read "SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain" in the How To section of Pool School. Start the SLAM process and follow it meticulously.

Thanks for the test results.....that's where everything has to start.
 
Thanks everybody for your quick response, really appreciate this. Some follow up questions:

1. It's a vinyl pool, do you think SLAMming can cause damage to the vinyl?
2. Apparently the CC is 0, (FC - 5, TC - 5), should I still SLAM the pool?
3. Any recommendation how much liquid chlorine/shock/anything else should I add?
 
SLAMing is not hard on the liner, in fact the things most pool stores tell you to do are far far worse (such as dumping pounds of 'shock' in all at once). Since SLAMing is directly tied to the CYA level it is a very safe level and you can even swim at SLAM levels.

To answer one of your original questions I don't think was covered, pool pumps can be run continuously as long as they are not running dry. They typically have thermal protection so it will turn itself off if there is a problem.

How much chlorine to add depends on CYA level, pool size, current FC level, etc. The pool calculator link is in my signature, it will tell you. Your CYA level is plenty high, assuming accurate pool store readings, hopefully it isn't higher than 60. As such you should use liquid chlorine/bleach instead of "shock" powder. Look at the active ingredients on any powder you have, if it is calcium hypochlorite you can use it. If it has the word dichlor or trichlor in it then absolutely do not use it at this time!

I also see you mentioned using tablets, are you still using those?
 
Thanks Donldson. To answer your question -- I am putting chlorine tablets in the chlorinator but no longer in the skimmer basket.
Also, the liquid Chlorine that I have is "Sodium Hypochlorite 12.5%" and the granular shock is "Calcium Hypochlorite 68%". So I guess I have to add the powdered shock in water and then pour it in the pool, am I correct?
 
MDP said:
Thanks Donldson. To answer your question -- I am putting chlorine tablets in the chlorinator but no longer in the skimmer basket.
Also, the liquid Chlorine that I have is "Sodium Hypochlorite 12.5%" and the granular shock is "Calcium Hypochlorite 68%". So I guess I have to add the powdered shock in water and then pour it in the pool, am I correct?
Stop with the tablets already! They are probably trichlor, which raises the CYA level, and yours is already on the high side.

The liquid chlorine is great stuff. The Cal hypo may cloud the water some when you add it - it's widely reported here, although I have never personally used it. I'm also unsure if it needs premixing! You have room for more CH, but not a lot, so use up what you have and just buy liquid from now on.
 

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Thank you so much again Richard. I put "12.5" in the "% bleach" box and getting an answer "2 gallons 3 quarts or 3.5 (96 oz) jugs". I hope this is the answer that I am looking for..................
 
Thanks JohnN.
This is an 18000 gallon vinyl pool, current FC - 5, TC - 5, Cya - 60. It's a green pool.
I am trying to figure out how much Sodium Hypochlorite 12.5% (liquid Chlorine) to add for SLAMing.
 
Thanks everybody for your great help; the pool is finally cleared up! This was really really a swap!
BTW: today's Free Chlorine level is 9 ppm; I then poured an algaecide (just so that they don't come back) that usually gets the FC level up. Will it create a problem for the vinyl liner? or should I pour some chlorine reducer?
 
What algaecide are you using that would raise your FC? Either way, no, don't worry about your FC going a little high, it will get used, but could you share what algaecide you are using and why you feel you need it?
 
Thank you Donldson.
Long story short -- I was getting funny reading for the FC during this course of action. When I added Reagent # 2, initially the water in the test tube would become red, but then after couple seconds the red color would disappear leaving clean water -- meaning the FC level is "0". Couple days ago I used Black Algaecide on a separate matter that raised the Chlorine level high. So, to be on the safe side, I added Black Agaecide and then took water sample to Ware House Pool supply. They tested the water said the FC level is 9.
 
You mean when you added the powder the water flashed red and then turned clear again? If that is the case it doesn't mean your FC is zero, it means you didn't add enough powder. The algaecide didn't raise your FC, it sounds like you did the test incorrectly.

You really should have asked us here instead of a pool store, we could have answered that one quickly. It's a common mistake. As for the algaecide, it looks like you added copper to your pool. Hopefully you don't have any problems with it staining...
 

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