Initial treatment of water after delivery.

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NHfloater

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Jul 26, 2013
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NH
Hi, folks. After the water truck leaves, what should I expect to need to do to the water? The pool is an 18' round, so about 8500 gal. I'm almost positive the water is coming from the city's municipal supply, so basically it's chlorinated drinking water. The pool comes with a "start-up supply" of chems, but I'm not sure exactly what that includes. I've read about SLAMing the pool before the first use and wanna make sure I have the chems on hand so I'm ready. I have a decent test kit already.

Any suggestions?
 
SLAMing is not needed after a fill with municipal water. If you were using pond water it would be useful.

The details of what you need to do very much depend on your water test results, which you can't know until the water arrives.

The one thing you can be sure of is that you will need CYA, as fill water never has CYA in it.
 
No way to know unless you test it. Although chlorine and CYA are going to be a given.

If it's city water, it may show high on CC because some suppliers use chloramines to prevent pipe corrosion or something. So don't freak.

Realistically, you can either use dichlor/trichlor to chlorinate and add CYA, since the startup kit will likely have that in it, but if pH is low, maybe you shouldn't, because that will make it worse. Regardless of what the CH reading is, you don't need to add any because a vinyl pool doesn;t care.

Get the pump running, add 2 ppm bleach as things start circulating and post the rest of the test results. Someone will be around to guide you if you post the results here.
 
Is the decent test kit one of our recommended kits ? These are the most accurate.

I would test your fill water for TA and PH. Adjust those levels if need be. There will be no CYA so you'll have add that to get to 30 - 50 ppm range. Use the granular in a sock in front of the return. Run pump 24 hrs after it dissolves. It will take a couple of days to a week to fully register on a test. Just assume its there to adjust your FC level to proper range. Bleach is the way to go for your chlorine.

Spend some time reading in pool school if you already haven't. pool-school/pool_water_chemistry


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Thanks for all the lightning fast responses, guys! I got the test kit before I joined the site. It's a Poolmaster 22270. Hopefully it'll do, if not, I'll get one of the ones recommended here.

Not sure what the start up kit chems are.

I'll be sure to post the initial test results here as soon as I get them. I'm just trying to be as prepared as possible for when the time comes, which hopefully will be soon. It was supposed to be done tomorrow, but Sharkline was a bit slow in getting it out.
 
Best pool money you can spend is on one of these test kits.

These do have the FAS-DPD chlorine test you will need, along with the TA, CH, pH, and CYA tests.

You can buy them elsewhere, but be prepared for long shipping times, as well as costing more.

Customer service from tftestkits is second to none, and if there are any problems, you can post here in the forums for a fast response.

Edit: Be sure to get the XL option, and the SpeedStir.
 

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The CYA test is important as the CYA works with the chlorine to protect it from the sun consuming it. You can use the pool calc to find out how much stabilizer to add to get to the recommended range of 30-50 ppm. Just assume its there as it takes a couple of days to fully register. Adjust your FC level to your CYA level.

You need a test kit to test for CYA.


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The pool pal app looks pretty good just from looking at the pictures. I use Simple Pool and it looks pretty similar.

NHfloater said:
I ended up just ordering the CYA test kit. I'm confident, based on the reviews at least, the kit I already have will be sufficient in the other areas.
Click to expand...
Despite the reviews you are missing important tests. Out of the tests you posted it does, the Bromine and Acid Demand are not needed in your situation. The chlorine and pH test is no different than a $10 test you can pick up at Walmart. The alkalinity test is needed, and the CYA test you ordered is a must. What the K-2006 and TF-100 have is the FAS-DPD kit, which allows you to measure chlorine in 0.5 ppm increments up to 50 ppm. The OTO test you already have only measures up to 5, is Total Chlorine instead of Free Chlorine (an important distinction) and is not especially accurate.

If you ordered from TFtestkits you may want to contact Dave and see if you can cancel the CYA test and order the TF-50 instead. It doesn't come with the pH/OTO test you already have, and will get you the FAS-DPD test as well as the calcium hardness test. It's well worth the extra to be able to get accurate FC and CC readings!
 
Grrr! Lol. Well I'm off to a bad start. I see what I get for cheaping out and not listening. OK, I'll try and cancel the order tomorrow AM. If it's too late, I'll have it as back up chems. Either way, I'm gonna order the TF-100.
 

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