if FC should be 1-3 why is 6 Ok?

engrav

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Jul 4, 2012
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Whidbey Island, WA
have two discussions elsewhere that morphed into many topics that were off topic but they were complex
but have another question that might remain on topic as is quite focussed

I see everywhere proper FC range is 1-3
but you all say for my CYA (80) I should have FC ? 6
so
1) if 6FC is Ok, why do I see 1-3 everywhere? and
2) is 6 Ok to swim in? (CC is zippo)
 
If your CYA is 80 in a non SWG pool the minimum your chlorine level should be is 6 your target is 9. I like to stay at a minimum of target for my CYA I get nervous if it falls below. It is safe to swim up to SLAM FC levels which in your case is 31.
 
DKT113 said:
If your CYA is 80 in a non SWG pool the minimum your chlorine level should be is 6 your target is 9. I like to stay at a minimum of target for my CYA I get nervous if it falls below. It is safe to swim up to SLAM FC levels which in your case is 31.

6-11 ppm is his FC range at 80 ppm of CYA.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
 
To answer this one:
engrav said:
1) if 6FC is Ok, why do I see 1-3 everywhere?
Because "That's just the way it's always been." That doesn't take CYA in to account and the sad truth is that most people, pool owners and pool store employees, have no idea of the CYA/Chlorine relationship. It's such an old statement that it just hasn't gone away. Kind of like how some people still put butter on a burn or hydrogen peroxide on a bleeding cut.
 

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It's all because the pool industry refuses to acknowledge the relationship between CYA and chlorine. CYA buffers the chlorine. In fact, there is more active chlorine in tap water (unless you have a well) than there is in a pool that is stabilized by the CYA.
 
JohnN said:
It's all because the pool industry refuses to acknowledge the relationship between CYA and chlorine. CYA buffers the chlorine. In fact, there is more active chlorine in tap water (unless you have a well) than there is in a pool that is stabilized by the CYA.

if tabs over time raises CYA
and CYA does not go away save by draining
and CYA requires more and more Cl
so people shift away from tabs to ?bleach
and the companies are in it to make $$
why not make tabs without CYA or with less CYA?
is this amount of CYA required for stability of the tabs?
 
You almost had it but let me fix your list:

-if tabs over time raises CYA
-and CYA does not go away save by draining
-and CYA requires more and more Cl
-[s:3holln0g]so people shift away from tabs to ?bleach[/s:3holln0g]
-so people blindly go to the pool store when the water turns green and are sold a truck load of other chemicals to try to make the green go away, after iterating on this a few times, the pool store will use some gimmick like "chlorine lock" and tell you to drain a good portion of the pool and then you can start to use the tablets again ... rinse and repeat
-and the companies are in it to make $$ ... and making a LOT of it by selling magic potions

why not make tabs without CYA or with less CYA?
is this amount of CYA required for stability of the tabs?

Correct, chlorine is not stable so you currently have the choice of adding CYA, calcium (cal-hypo), or lithium ($$$) to make the chlorine stable and safe to handle.
 
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