My pool was not holding chlorineI was told my phosfate level was at 10000.00 floced pool went down to 2000 then was told to add commercial phos free i qt at a time seemed like chlorine levels were holding untill I added this last night chlorine was at 7 this morning 0. also my ph and alkalinity seem to be all over the place. I do know my cya level is 100. FRUSTERATED!!!
pool floc
- Thread starter jodyliebing
- Start date
Don't Panic, we can help provided we have the right information.
Please post the test results for:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Also need to know your pool size, filter type (sand, cartridge?), and what you are using to chlorinate. We do not need to know you phosphate level, you will see why later.
Finally, is your CYA 100 or is it over 100?
Please post the test results for:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Also need to know your pool size, filter type (sand, cartridge?), and what you are using to chlorinate. We do not need to know you phosphate level, you will see why later.
Finally, is your CYA 100 or is it over 100?
fc-0
tc-0
CH-223
TA-120
PH-7.6
CYA-109
my pool is inground vinyl liner sand filter w auto chlorinator put in last June.
tc-0
CH-223
TA-120
PH-7.6
CYA-109
my pool is inground vinyl liner sand filter w auto chlorinator put in last June.
It's Alum with some muriatic acid. It wouldn't have caused the FC to drop but it surely would the pH and TA as it's about 3 pH.
Well the pH and TA look fine for now, as does the CH. You will want to lower your pH slightly before SLAMing but let's cover that in a moment.
You need to SLAM the pool to kill whatever is in there that is keeping you from holding your chlorine. This will eliminate anything that is eating phosphates so that level will not matter afterwards and you won't need to add phosphate remover.
The first issue however is your CYA. It is virtually impossible to SLAM with your CYA that high, or to keep anything from reforming. To lower your you must do a water change, in your case about 60% by the looks of it. Does your auto chlorinator use pucks or liquid?
You need to SLAM the pool to kill whatever is in there that is keeping you from holding your chlorine. This will eliminate anything that is eating phosphates so that level will not matter afterwards and you won't need to add phosphate remover.
The first issue however is your CYA. It is virtually impossible to SLAM with your CYA that high, or to keep anything from reforming. To lower your you must do a water change, in your case about 60% by the looks of it. Does your auto chlorinator use pucks or liquid?
my chlorinator uses pucks. How would you suggest draining that much water? I was told that it will really mess up my liner if I try to drain that all at once. Can I do it in batches of 20% at a time. Also have well water.
You can do it in batches but they get less effective with each batch, so I would suggest doing as much as you can in two batches, then test your CYA again and we will see if it is reasonably lowered to start the SLAM. You should be able to switch your sand filter to Waste and it will drain. Do you have a main drain and a way to close off the skimmer? If so then you can use that for the whole time. If not then attach your vacuum and let it drain through that. Might as well vacuum while you are at too it if it needs it.
Your pucks are the reason your CYA is where it is, continuing to use them will assure that this does happen again. You may want to look in to other options to chlorinate that will let you avoid having to drain again.
Your pucks are the reason your CYA is where it is, continuing to use them will assure that this does happen again. You may want to look in to other options to chlorinate that will let you avoid having to drain again.
I have 2 comments on this: 1) Those look like pool store numbers. Do you have one of the recommended test kits, which are linked to in my signature? 2) Most CYA tests can't read above 100, so when they say 100, it could actually be much higher.
yeah, I can drain out of the waste part of the filter. I may just try to get a decent price on getting a tank full of water hauled in that way I can drain and fill at the same time. Funny the pool stores have told me time and time again that my CYA levels are not causing ANY of these problems.
what are my alternitives to using the pucks in the auto chlorinator, I thought I had to use something???
CYA is the test pool stores get wrong the most, so your actual CYA may be lower or higher. If you want to clear up your pool, you should order one of the recommended test kits, which are linked to in my signature. Without them, it is hard to give good recommendations.
No forms of solid chlorine are good. Some add calcium, some, like the pucks, add CYA. By far the best thing to use is plain unscented bleach or liquid chlorine. No unwanted side effects.
No forms of solid chlorine are good. Some add calcium, some, like the pucks, add CYA. By far the best thing to use is plain unscented bleach or liquid chlorine. No unwanted side effects.
Well, let me ask you, if you have high CYA and your chlorine isn't up to the task of clearing algae, what do they tell you the problem is? Phosphates, right. And what is the most expensive chemical they sell there? Bingo, phosphate remover! That is quite a coincidence, don't you think :?jodyliebing said:
Your alternatives are to chlorinate yourself with bleach, add an SWG, add a liquidator, add a peristaltic pump, etc. There are many many ways to chlorinate without using pucks, few people on this forum use them any more.
JohnN is correct, a good test kit will help save you a lot of frustration in the future. Check the link in my signature.
Pool stores, in general, do not see high CYa are a problems since the majority of the Chlorine products they sell increase your CYA. This is simply that they do not understand the effect the CYA has on the Chlorine and it's ability to kill organics in your pool. When you have CYA over 100, the amount of FC killing organics in very low relative the total amount of chlorine in the pool.
CYA and chlorine bind together and if all of the chlorine is bound, none of the chlorine is killing organics, its stabilized into doing "nothing".
CYA and chlorine bind together and if all of the chlorine is bound, none of the chlorine is killing organics, its stabilized into doing "nothing".
Short answetr to your question: Liquid Chlorine. This is also known as bleach.
The items mentioned above... Liquidator and Peristaltic pump, pump liquid chlorine into your pool. The SWG creates chlorine by using salt and electricity.
You may be asking.. chlorine, what about pucks/sticks and granules. These items all have chlorine in them and when you put them in the pool make liquid chlorine. The problem is almost all of them are "stabilized" into a solid form using a binding agent... CYA. The CYA collects in your pool until all of the pool is stabilized... and then it turns green, no matter how much stabilized chlorine you add.
liquid chlorine or bleach are more effective and do not have the drawbacks of solid forms.
The items mentioned above... Liquidator and Peristaltic pump, pump liquid chlorine into your pool. The SWG creates chlorine by using salt and electricity.
You may be asking.. chlorine, what about pucks/sticks and granules. These items all have chlorine in them and when you put them in the pool make liquid chlorine. The problem is almost all of them are "stabilized" into a solid form using a binding agent... CYA. The CYA collects in your pool until all of the pool is stabilized... and then it turns green, no matter how much stabilized chlorine you add.
liquid chlorine or bleach are more effective and do not have the drawbacks of solid forms.