Mustard algae. I have treated the pool several times with algaecide and shock chlorine only to have it grow right back. My daughter gives private swim lessons and we se our pool for baptisms etc. a lot so I can't have it out of commission so much. Is it true that chlorine doesn't kill mustard algae or that the algae isn't trapped by the filter so I need to keep it dirty? (Pool supply business told me that). I just had it extensively tested and the phosphate is high and the calcium low. Will this likely cure the problem? I am today adding algaecide (I've got to get rid of the poofy slime NOW), phosphate reducer and calcium as well as HCL and extra chlorine. I just spent $60 on the supplies and $40 two weeks ago. I don't want to continue this pattern. I am in the process of reading the beginners information but I'd like an opinion on mustard algae now. By the way, I don't have any problem with green algae at all.
Chronic mustard algae
- Thread starter mom of 5 kids
- Start date
First: Welcome to TFP! 
Since you are in a hurry I will get straight to the point: ignore everything they are telling you. Algaecide is nothing but a preventative measure and will not kill current algae blooms, same with phosphate removers.
Chlorine very much kills it, but mustard algae is a particularly tough nut to crack. The procedure in this article will help you get rid of the algae as well as procedures to rid your pool of the problem forever: pool-school/mustard_algae
Since you are in a hurry I will get straight to the point: ignore everything they are telling you. Algaecide is nothing but a preventative measure and will not kill current algae blooms, same with phosphate removers.
Chlorine very much kills it, but mustard algae is a particularly tough nut to crack. The procedure in this article will help you get rid of the algae as well as procedures to rid your pool of the problem forever: pool-school/mustard_algae
You don't need the algaecide! They often cause more problems. Take it back if you still haven't opened it and you have the receipt.
First .. order one of the recommended pool test kits. http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison They are well worth the investment! When I first started lurking here, I thought they were overrated, but they are not. You will love being able to check your levels more accurately than the pool stores ever will, without the pressure of them trying to sell you something you don't need. Not to mention, you won't have to run to the store all of the time to get a reading.
Next... Read through the Pool School section on the ABC's of pool water Chemistry, and how to SLAM your pool. Clearing up your problem is not a one time dump in chemical the pool store will sell you as "shock", but a process. Once you have completed it, maintenance is a breeze and only takes a couple of minutes a day.
First .. order one of the recommended pool test kits. http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison They are well worth the investment! When I first started lurking here, I thought they were overrated, but they are not. You will love being able to check your levels more accurately than the pool stores ever will, without the pressure of them trying to sell you something you don't need. Not to mention, you won't have to run to the store all of the time to get a reading.
Next... Read through the Pool School section on the ABC's of pool water Chemistry, and how to SLAM your pool. Clearing up your problem is not a one time dump in chemical the pool store will sell you as "shock", but a process. Once you have completed it, maintenance is a breeze and only takes a couple of minutes a day.
Thank you. I already have a ("vastly inferior") test kit and I don't have time to order a good one but that will happen in the future. Right now, with 50 people coming over for a baptism on Saturday, will SLAM get rid of the problem by then? I don't want to use algaecide either but I feel my hands are tied. The concept of high phosphate being plant food makes sense though. I noticed the test kits don't measure phosphates.
Phosphates are not a problem in a pool when you get your other levels in check and there is no way algae can grow. Chlorine itself works as an algaecide.
See ABC's of pool water chemistry. http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_water_chemistry
I can't guarantee that water will be ready for Saturday. It depends on how much time you have to keep your pool at shock level and how bad it is to start with. You will be spending time brushing, vacuuming, backwashing and dosing your chlorine frequently.
Many here have battled mustard algae and say it is a tough one.
Without a good test kit, it is very difficult to measure the FC at the high levels you will be needing to rid the pool of mustard algae.
Depending on the algaecide you would use... many introduce metals that can later stain your pool surface, and hair. Do be aware of that before you procede with any algaecide. Copper is the main culprit
See ABC's of pool water chemistry. http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_water_chemistry
I can't guarantee that water will be ready for Saturday. It depends on how much time you have to keep your pool at shock level and how bad it is to start with. You will be spending time brushing, vacuuming, backwashing and dosing your chlorine frequently.
Many here have battled mustard algae and say it is a tough one.
Without a good test kit, it is very difficult to measure the FC at the high levels you will be needing to rid the pool of mustard algae.
Depending on the algaecide you would use... many introduce metals that can later stain your pool surface, and hair. Do be aware of that before you procede with any algaecide. Copper is the main culprit
This is a non copper algacide and I look forward to not using it anymore. Can you buy these test kits without ordering one? I am reading the information, by the way.
There are no guarantees that SLAM will get rid of it all by Saturday, but I will guarantee you that algaecide will not.
Phosphates are food, but let me ask you: If a person is in a room with plenty of food, plenty of water, but the air is full of chlorine gas, and another person is in a room with no food, no water, and the air is full of chlorine gas, will either person starve to death? You don't need to test for phosphates if you keep a proper chlorine level. I have never tested phosphates, never used a phosphate remover, but since learn the SLAM process and keeping the proper chlorine level for my CYA I have not had an algae problem.
If you want a chance at clearing it by Saturday you need to figure out your CYA level and start the process right away. It will be difficult without a good test (some pool stores sell the K-2006 but they aren't very common) but it can be done. How much liquid chlorine can you get your hands on?
Phosphates are food, but let me ask you: If a person is in a room with plenty of food, plenty of water, but the air is full of chlorine gas, and another person is in a room with no food, no water, and the air is full of chlorine gas, will either person starve to death? You don't need to test for phosphates if you keep a proper chlorine level. I have never tested phosphates, never used a phosphate remover, but since learn the SLAM process and keeping the proper chlorine level for my CYA I have not had an algae problem.
If you want a chance at clearing it by Saturday you need to figure out your CYA level and start the process right away. It will be difficult without a good test (some pool stores sell the K-2006 but they aren't very common) but it can be done. How much liquid chlorine can you get your hands on?
I don't know what my CYA is only that the pool supply business said it was "perfect" and that the tablets have completely dissolved and I was about to add 4 new ones.
Perfect to a pool store and perfect to us are very, very different things... That is the most important number upon which everything in the SLAM process is based on.
in the process of mustard algae
Mod Edit: Please keep all of you posts on this issue in one thread. Thanks, moderator linen
Still working on this. I went ahead and used the last of the ammonia based algaecide that I had left from the last three breakouts. (I've got to have this cleared by Saturday). But I am trying to SLAM the pool also. I'm going in blind because I don't have a high range test kit and won't be able to get it right now. This may be a stupid thing to try but I diluted my pool water sample 1:4 and tested that since my test kit only goes up to 5 . That sample was at 5. As a chemistry major in college, I know color intensity isn't linear going from low to high concentrations (it's S shaped) but it may be linear enough at this range. I should know this but college doesn't teach you pool chemistry and I don't have a lab in my garage. Does anyone know? That would mean my FC is at 20 which is the shock level (CYA 52). I do not want a forth breakout of mustard algae! Thanks again.
Mod Edit: Please keep all of you posts on this issue in one thread. Thanks, moderator linen
Still working on this. I went ahead and used the last of the ammonia based algaecide that I had left from the last three breakouts. (I've got to have this cleared by Saturday). But I am trying to SLAM the pool also. I'm going in blind because I don't have a high range test kit and won't be able to get it right now. This may be a stupid thing to try but I diluted my pool water sample 1:4 and tested that since my test kit only goes up to 5 . That sample was at 5. As a chemistry major in college, I know color intensity isn't linear going from low to high concentrations (it's S shaped) but it may be linear enough at this range. I should know this but college doesn't teach you pool chemistry and I don't have a lab in my garage. Does anyone know? That would mean my FC is at 20 which is the shock level (CYA 52). I do not want a forth breakout of mustard algae! Thanks again.
Re: in the process of mustard algae
Your accuracy will go down. What did you dilute with, some tap water has chlorine or chloromides that will affect your reading. Distilled or well water is good. There was a thread on here somewhere that discussed with pictures what the approximate levels of chlorine colors were for off the scale readings.
Your accuracy will go down. What did you dilute with, some tap water has chlorine or chloromides that will affect your reading. Distilled or well water is good. There was a thread on here somewhere that discussed with pictures what the approximate levels of chlorine colors were for off the scale readings.
You need to know your cya accurately to do the SLAM process efficiently...which is important to you right now.
Where did you get the 52 ppm cya number?
What does you water look like right now?
Where did you get the 52 ppm cya number?
What does you water look like right now?
I got the reading from the pool supply store (it's the only resource I had). Whenever I had it tested, even at different places , it was always perfect so I am assuming the 52 is close. Yes, I already see the problem as water from my house has .6 ppm chlorine. Distilled water is a good option. I don't see a change in the levels as I check throughout today, though last night it went down a lot even with my low range scale, so I am assuming I need to keep adding gallons of chlorine through the day as well as brushing the sides. I am going to Home Depot now to get more... The water looks perfectly clear. Perfectly. I still brush something that poofs up and clouds but it is on the bottom and not the sides so I think it's dirt. Yesterday, it poofed off the walls. There are terrible stains now I will have to deal with this winter. Hopefully I won't see such a large change in the chlorine level but I will continue to brush and chlorinate. I put all the cleaning tools in the pool so they will sanitize, but an ongoing problem is my dog who loves to swim in the pool as well as our lily pond in which I never add anything to control algae.
I just noticed the part in the mustard algae article that gives an even higher shock level for mustard algae. Guess I'll be getting twice as chlorine at Home Depot than I thought.
Since your water is clear, and if what you have truly is mustard algae, then I would wait to do the SLAM process until after your important weekend. Assuming 52 ppm cya is right (pool stores get this wrong more than right), then I would keep your FC at/slightly above 8 ppm which will keep it from continuing to grow until you are done Saturday.
How do you know you have mustard algae?
You definitely should be getting one of the recommended test kits mentioned above....especially is you suspect mustard algae. Many of us have the tf-100 since it is the bet value.
If you order the kit now, I bet you will have it in a couple of days and can start the SLAM process after the pool activities on Saturday. Dave (username duraleigh on the forum) has really fast shipping.
How do you know you have mustard algae?
You definitely should be getting one of the recommended test kits mentioned above....especially is you suspect mustard algae. Many of us have the tf-100 since it is the bet value.
If you order the kit now, I bet you will have it in a couple of days and can start the SLAM process after the pool activities on Saturday. Dave (username duraleigh on the forum) has really fast shipping.
Where?
I had this problem before, many times. It looks like dirt at first but the water gets cloudy with this yellowy-green/brownish stuff that poofs when you try to brush it. It seems to grow on the walls as much as the floor, and after two days the water looks like a glowing green blob. You can almost not see the bottom of the pool. This happens while the chlorine level is maintained at 2. It is different from the dark green speckles that accumulate when there is no chlorine. Algaecide clears is up in no time, but it comes back after about 10 days. Now, there are terrible brown stains all over the pool. I was able to clear a stamp sized spot with vitamin C and a lot of scrubbing.
I had this problem before, many times. It looks like dirt at first but the water gets cloudy with this yellowy-green/brownish stuff that poofs when you try to brush it. It seems to grow on the walls as much as the floor, and after two days the water looks like a glowing green blob. You can almost not see the bottom of the pool. This happens while the chlorine level is maintained at 2. It is different from the dark green speckles that accumulate when there is no chlorine. Algaecide clears is up in no time, but it comes back after about 10 days. Now, there are terrible brown stains all over the pool. I was able to clear a stamp sized spot with vitamin C and a lot of scrubbing.
I set you a PM with the link.
What have you been using the keep the pool chlorinated... did you say? Pucks? Powder? Bleach?
An FC of 2 is quite low if you have any CYA and you do if you are using dichlor or trichlor in a floater.
What have you been using the keep the pool chlorinated... did you say? Pucks? Powder? Bleach?
An FC of 2 is quite low if you have any CYA and you do if you are using dichlor or trichlor in a floater.
Thank you. My 16 year old son does the work, by the way but I took over this week to tackle this problem. We usually use liquid chlorine from Home Depot along with a few floating pucks. Lately, the pucks have dissipated and I haven't replaced them. i will look into getting the accurate test kit for the long run.