[attachment=0:2yh2nuod]009.JPG[/attachment:2yh2nuod][attachment=1:2yh2nuod]010.JPG[/attachment:2yh2nuod]Hi, green pool guy here. Just wanted an observation and possible help with how to point my returns for proper circulation. I have a skimmer and about 4 ft away in the deep end is a return as well as a main drain down below, on the other side of pool in the shallow end there is another return. Any help will be much appreciated.
2 pics of green pool and questions
- Thread starter CalebsDad
- Start date
Generally, folks set up their returns to impart a circular motion to the water, so it flows constantly in front of the skimmer(s).
I like mine to just ripple the surface for the aesthetics...others point them more downward to mix the water a bit better.
I like mine to just ripple the surface for the aesthetics...others point them more downward to mix the water a bit better.
A full set of test results will help us more than anything. Test strips and pool stores are notoriously inaccurate, but can get us started. It is recommended here that everyone buy their own test kit for home use as they are so much more accurate and will save you lots of money in the long run... especially when you are starting out green.
You can find test kits that are recommended here ... http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison.
What is the history of the pool? How has it been maintained in the past and what chemicals have you used?
Returns are something that you can play with to determine what gives the best water circulation for your pool. Many do the circular motion thing, others point downward to try and keep anything from settling on the bottom.
Also, putting your pool information in your signature line is helpful as well. We can see that you have a vinyl liner, but how large is it, what kind of filter medium, etc.
You can find test kits that are recommended here ... http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison.
What is the history of the pool? How has it been maintained in the past and what chemicals have you used?
Returns are something that you can play with to determine what gives the best water circulation for your pool. Many do the circular motion thing, others point downward to try and keep anything from settling on the bottom.
Also, putting your pool information in your signature line is helpful as well. We can see that you have a vinyl liner, but how large is it, what kind of filter medium, etc.
You are doing SLAM procedure as if you have a CYA of 65 and you have 20 or less according to your testing method.
That could cause a problem.
Additionally if you have sunshine and something eating away at the chlorine you introduce, 20 or less CYA will be diminished quickly. The CYA allows longevity and the most bang for your buck as it relates to chlorine staying in the water and going to war.
Read Pool School / SLAM information and pay close attention to the CYA/ Chlorine chart. They CYA/Chlorine chart allows you to see the relationship between the 2 so you don't blindly toss in chlorine that will be consumed in short order, causing you frustration and costing you unnecessary dollars because you aren't going to war correctly.
That could cause a problem.
Additionally if you have sunshine and something eating away at the chlorine you introduce, 20 or less CYA will be diminished quickly. The CYA allows longevity and the most bang for your buck as it relates to chlorine staying in the water and going to war.
Read Pool School / SLAM information and pay close attention to the CYA/ Chlorine chart. They CYA/Chlorine chart allows you to see the relationship between the 2 so you don't blindly toss in chlorine that will be consumed in short order, causing you frustration and costing you unnecessary dollars because you aren't going to war correctly.
To know what is correct you really need to have a good read on the CYA.
This is the CYA Relationship Chart: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
This is Pool School ~ open in expanded view for full table of contents: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/
You really need to read to get a basic understanding of what you are doing. Ask questions as you need, but it's impossible for people to walk you through the process without you reading "The Mission" ~ I explains a lot ~ a lot you won't necessarily understand initially ~ but as you go through the motions, things will click and you will begin to absorb what you are reading. This will allow you to take control of your water, correctly.
This is the CYA Relationship Chart: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock
This is Pool School ~ open in expanded view for full table of contents: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/
You really need to read to get a basic understanding of what you are doing. Ask questions as you need, but it's impossible for people to walk you through the process without you reading "The Mission" ~ I explains a lot ~ a lot you won't necessarily understand initially ~ but as you go through the motions, things will click and you will begin to absorb what you are reading. This will allow you to take control of your water, correctly.
How was your CYA tested?
What products have you used so far? pucks? shock? Those both introduce CYA. If you've used much of either one, likely your CYA is higher than 20.
If your CYA is 20, your shock should be 11 FC according to http://www.poolcalculator.com/
Read through Pool School... SLAM to get a better understanding of what you are doing. 25 FC is too high for your CYA.
If your CYA is really 20 or less, you will want to increase that at some point soon to help the chlorine be more stable in the sunlight.
What products have you used so far? pucks? shock? Those both introduce CYA. If you've used much of either one, likely your CYA is higher than 20.
If your CYA is 20, your shock should be 11 FC according to http://www.poolcalculator.com/
Read through Pool School... SLAM to get a better understanding of what you are doing. 25 FC is too high for your CYA.
If your CYA is really 20 or less, you will want to increase that at some point soon to help the chlorine be more stable in the sunlight.
Not realy used a lot of pucks or bags of shock, mainly liquid chlorine
I tested my cya but I am starting to think my reagent is bad, as I fill I have put enuff bags of shock to at least measure 20.
But I get clear at end of test.
I tested my cya but I am starting to think my reagent is bad, as I fill I have put enuff bags of shock to at least measure 20.
But I get clear at end of test.
Which kit do you have? How old is the kit? Where is it stored?
All that asked, CYA is the reagent least likely to go bad, so sounds like you are < 20ppm. How long ago have you added all the solid forms of chlorine? Are you sure it was not cal-hypo which adds calcium and not stabilizer?
All that asked, CYA is the reagent least likely to go bad, so sounds like you are < 20ppm. How long ago have you added all the solid forms of chlorine? Are you sure it was not cal-hypo which adds calcium and not stabilizer?
As far as the kit not realy a number on the kit, but I do have the powder for testing my chlorine, and the stuff for the alk and the ph as well, dont have a calcium test though. Couple weeks about the addition, yeah not Cal hypo, and as far as reagent bought a big bottle from Leslies because I knew Id probably need the stuff but now hoping its not bad