We have tried all suggestions on every thread I could find related to this. Nothing works. Could the fur of an 85 lb yellow lab who swims almost daily get past the basket and into the impeller? Or some other debris ? I don't want to waste time. Should we go right to the impeller next, or anything else we should try? Help.. This is frustrating.
Air coming out of returns, and pump will not fully prime
- Thread starter tyffany&james
- Start date
I have 2 Great Pyrenees and years ago when they were pups and some we thought it was cute to have them in the pool too. I never had a hair problem from the mostly longer hairs and I'm sure that not all was caught by the skimmer basket or center drain or pump basket. It did cost me 2 liners for my pool though cuz my dogs have nails and vinyl versus dog nails, guess who won? You are brave..
By not fully priming do you mean when the pump is running? You may have a 'starvation' problem if no noticeable lines are plugged up.
On my 1.5 hp Matrix pump I will 'draw' half the pump basket empty if I close my center drain and only use the skimmer line and air will shoot out of the return. In my case this is likely caused by having all my plumbing 1.5".
Also be sure that you have no 'defective', broken, cracked lines. Air is easier to suck than water....I heard.. for a pump that is!
You did not mention if you get less pressure than 'normal' when this occurs.
If your pump is below water level does it fill up quick when basket lid is removed? If above water level does filling the basket with a hose help any?
To trace down something like this you need to be very thorough in checking the obvious things before taking anything apart, I think.
I hope my example of how "easy" it is to starve a pump helped you a bit.
Good luck!
By not fully priming do you mean when the pump is running? You may have a 'starvation' problem if no noticeable lines are plugged up.
On my 1.5 hp Matrix pump I will 'draw' half the pump basket empty if I close my center drain and only use the skimmer line and air will shoot out of the return. In my case this is likely caused by having all my plumbing 1.5".
Also be sure that you have no 'defective', broken, cracked lines. Air is easier to suck than water....I heard..
for a pump that is!You did not mention if you get less pressure than 'normal' when this occurs.
If your pump is below water level does it fill up quick when basket lid is removed? If above water level does filling the basket with a hose help any?
To trace down something like this you need to be very thorough in checking the obvious things before taking anything apart, I think.
I hope my example of how "easy" it is to starve a pump helped you a bit.
Good luck!
Do you know where is the air entering? skimmer? between the Skimmer and pump? pump basket lid? Does it chnage when its raining? when you run water over the pump from a garden hose?
Have you replace your pump lid or o-ring?
Do you get an air bubble in your pump lid?
Have you replace your pump lid or o-ring?
Do you get an air bubble in your pump lid?
There are no obvious cracks or breaks. I tried pouring water over, that yielded no results. But I will try again. The o- ring is new (1 yr), how much extra room do you have with it? Or is it tight fitting. When I took it off to put the lubricant on it took me like 20 mins to get it back on. It was about an inch too long. I had to keep moving it forward and backward to fit right. We tightened all clamps, connections and plugs on all outside plumbing.
When switching the valve from skim to drain it makes no difference. The air is still present coming out of jets and pump basket not completely filling. Also water level of the pool is correct. No air coming from skimmer. Pressure from the jets is still just as strong. There is no air bubble to be seen through lid cover. You can now see the water trying to fill it. Last week you would have to actually stare at the lid to know if it was on or not.
Pump is above water level. It has not rained here since this problem started. I have tried filling the pump basket before closing. That only made a difference one time, and couldn't get it to stay fully primed after that.
The pool is around 30 years old. The home was a foreclosure. We do not know if any of it had been replaced since our purchase of the home in 2011. The sand filter and Hayward super pump serial numbers coincide with original equipment. I just assume plumbing must be too.
Now what?
When switching the valve from skim to drain it makes no difference. The air is still present coming out of jets and pump basket not completely filling. Also water level of the pool is correct. No air coming from skimmer. Pressure from the jets is still just as strong. There is no air bubble to be seen through lid cover. You can now see the water trying to fill it. Last week you would have to actually stare at the lid to know if it was on or not.
Pump is above water level. It has not rained here since this problem started. I have tried filling the pump basket before closing. That only made a difference one time, and couldn't get it to stay fully primed after that.
The pool is around 30 years old. The home was a foreclosure. We do not know if any of it had been replaced since our purchase of the home in 2011. The sand filter and Hayward super pump serial numbers coincide with original equipment. I just assume plumbing must be too.
Now what?
Unless that is the way the replacement fitted when you first used it, I'd say your o-ring has expanded. Could it be the wrong one? It should fit snug without having to mess with it.
What kind of lube have you been using on it?
What kind of lube have you been using on it?
No. It is a replacement. The lube is called 'pool lube' with ptfe and was 5$ for a 1 oz tube. Should I start with replacing ill fitting o ring and better quality lubricant. When I pour water over the basket it does not suck in the water.
Start with the o-ring.
I think your lube is the proper one, however the lube I get is silicon based and doesn't have the ptfe in it. Not had a problem with o-rings yet.
I think your lube is the proper one, however the lube I get is silicon based and doesn't have the ptfe in it. Not had a problem with o-rings yet.
Im sorry read it wrong. The o ring fit that way right from out of the hayward package. Maybe we were sold wrong one?
Probably were. If you have a Hayward dealer near you, take careful measurements of the o-ring seat on your basket and cover.
Take the one you have with you, and explain what the problem is. Have the pump (wet end) model and serial number with you.
If you don't have a local store, check with a few of the better automotive parts stores NAPA etc, they may be able to match up something for you.
Take the one you have with you, and explain what the problem is. Have the pump (wet end) model and serial number with you.
If you don't have a local store, check with a few of the better automotive parts stores NAPA etc, they may be able to match up something for you.
I have a Hayward dealer right here in my town. They opened at 9, I'm headed down serial # of wet end in hand. And you say a silicon based lube is better ? I will try that as well. Post results when I have some. Thanks. T
Take your existing lid with you. Let the store see what you have and let them install the new oring.
No ones asked yet so i will. There is enough water in the pool correct?
I do work in and around the seacoast so i know its been very hot. Lots of evaporation in pools ive had to top off mine a few times this month so my suggestion is to check the skimmer intake when the pumps running to see if its sucking any air
I do work in and around the seacoast so i know its been very hot. Lots of evaporation in pools ive had to top off mine a few times this month so my suggestion is to check the skimmer intake when the pumps running to see if its sucking any air
I have been keeping water topped off due to the recent heat wave. It's definitely not water level. Brand new o- ring all on and lubricated (they sold me the right one this time). Pump basket is still not fully priming and air is still coming in thru returns.
The valve doesn't matter where you put it, whether drain or skim there is still air through returns and pump not completely primed. You can clearly see the basket trying to fill at the top. Just a few days ago there was air coming in thru returns but the basket was staying primed.
Where to go now?
The valve doesn't matter where you put it, whether drain or skim there is still air through returns and pump not completely primed. You can clearly see the basket trying to fill at the top. Just a few days ago there was air coming in thru returns but the basket was staying primed.
Where to go now?
You can try the shaving foam or food color methods on every joint you can access.
Check especially the areas around your skimmer(s).
You do have a suction side leak, and unfortunately those are difficult at best to isolate.
Check especially the areas around your skimmer(s).
You do have a suction side leak, and unfortunately those are difficult at best to isolate.
asxetos
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Well my husband said that same thing, that there may be an issue with that valve. And they had the valve kit at the pool store. Is that where to go next ? I just tried shaving cream. I should have taken a picture. You all would have had a good laugh at me ! Lol. No air coming in anywhere on any of the pipes, basket, joints, couplings. I covered it all and sat and stared for quite a bit
While rinsing the boat load of shaving cream off of everything, I noticed my basket primed right up not even an air bubble. It was when I was pouring water over the ball valve that it started to fill. Do I run right out and replace the whole valve or is a dismantle and a clean in order? Or do you usually just have to replace it?
asxetos
0
Any valve can leak, either at the joints or at its axis, where the handle enters the valve body.
Sometimes there is a compression fitting on the handle axis, where a nut puts pressure on a conical rubber seal where the handle axis goes through to enter the valve body, so sometimes it is possible to just tighten this nut a bit more, not too much though, because then turning the handle will become too difficult, this is if that nut exists at all.
Sometimes there is a compression fitting on the handle axis, where a nut puts pressure on a conical rubber seal where the handle axis goes through to enter the valve body, so sometimes it is possible to just tighten this nut a bit more, not too much though, because then turning the handle will become too difficult, this is if that nut exists at all.
What type of ball valve is it? I would try dismantle, clean and inspect all seals and sealing surfaces, replacing any seals/o-rings that looked even slightly questionable.