Well I have ordered the pool kit for my build and I'm about to buy the equipment but I wanted some feedback before I placed the order. With all of the experience and knowledge available here, I hope to get properly set up.
The pool is a 18x38x28 Full L. The capacity is 25,500 gallons and the area is 800 sf. I have been going back and forth with all of the available combinations of pumps, filters, heaters and sanitizers and my plan is to go with Pentair equipment to get the 3 year warranty. Plus, my credit card will add another year so I'll get 4 total. I'm looking at using the Intelliflo variable speed pump, the Intellichlor generator with the EasyTouch controller, the 420 sf. cartridge filter, and a Max-E-Therm 400k btu heater. My reason for going with the SWG is that I can be away for a few days and not need to have anyone maintain the pool. I decided to go with a cartridge filter so that I won't need to find a place to discharge the briny backflush water and won't need to add salt and water. Is my logic sound here? Also, I decided on the Max-E-Therm because it has a higher efficiency and a better exchanger design. Pentair claims that if the water is kept in check then the copper exchanger will survive but I'm leaning towards paying an additional $400 for the cupronickel exchanger. Does anybody have any experience with these?
On that same topic, from what I have found it seems that one of the big factors in the lifespan of the exchangers is the erosion caused by the water more than just corrosion. When metal oxidizes, the surface coating actually protects the underlying material by blocking oxygen and the exchange of ions. The total dissolved solids level in a salt water pool is higher so if both the rate of water flow through the exchanger and the TDS is high, this oxidized coating gets stripped off so there is a combination of increased activity due to the presence of the sodium ions and the removal of this oxidized layer due to the abrasiveness of the water. What I was wondering is has anyone plumbed up their systems with a bypass for the heater? In the middle of the summer I won't need this thing very often if at all. It would seem that keeping the flow out of the exchanger would prolong it's life.
One more thing. Does anybody have experience with sacrificial anodes in the piping? I'm not sure if these are of any value.
The pool is a 18x38x28 Full L. The capacity is 25,500 gallons and the area is 800 sf. I have been going back and forth with all of the available combinations of pumps, filters, heaters and sanitizers and my plan is to go with Pentair equipment to get the 3 year warranty. Plus, my credit card will add another year so I'll get 4 total. I'm looking at using the Intelliflo variable speed pump, the Intellichlor generator with the EasyTouch controller, the 420 sf. cartridge filter, and a Max-E-Therm 400k btu heater. My reason for going with the SWG is that I can be away for a few days and not need to have anyone maintain the pool. I decided to go with a cartridge filter so that I won't need to find a place to discharge the briny backflush water and won't need to add salt and water. Is my logic sound here? Also, I decided on the Max-E-Therm because it has a higher efficiency and a better exchanger design. Pentair claims that if the water is kept in check then the copper exchanger will survive but I'm leaning towards paying an additional $400 for the cupronickel exchanger. Does anybody have any experience with these?
On that same topic, from what I have found it seems that one of the big factors in the lifespan of the exchangers is the erosion caused by the water more than just corrosion. When metal oxidizes, the surface coating actually protects the underlying material by blocking oxygen and the exchange of ions. The total dissolved solids level in a salt water pool is higher so if both the rate of water flow through the exchanger and the TDS is high, this oxidized coating gets stripped off so there is a combination of increased activity due to the presence of the sodium ions and the removal of this oxidized layer due to the abrasiveness of the water. What I was wondering is has anyone plumbed up their systems with a bypass for the heater? In the middle of the summer I won't need this thing very often if at all. It would seem that keeping the flow out of the exchanger would prolong it's life.
One more thing. Does anybody have experience with sacrificial anodes in the piping? I'm not sure if these are of any value.
