high phosphates???

Jul 17, 2013
5
I've had a green pool ever since opening in May...one pool store sold me Staintrine. Didn't help. They said my chemicals were perfect. Today I took water sample to a different pool store. Told them my story... they said my phosphate level is 1000. Sold me commercial phosphate remover and calcium stuff. Then I started researching what phosphates do to the water and it makes sense, as we are surrounded by trees and debri got in the pool. BUT, do I really just need to shock or SLAM (??)... my CYA level is OK at 30ppm and I'm getting no chlorine level. :cry: 17.000 gallon pool, above ground.
 
Welcome to TFP!

Do you mean clear transparent green water, or cloudy/murky green water?

Phosphates are irrelevant as long as you maintain appropriate FC levels.

Could you post a complete set of water test results?
 
i can post test results from the pool place: FC=0, TC=0, CC=0, Ph=7.4, CYA=30, total alkalinity=100, same for adjusted total alkalinity, calcium hardness=100.
the water is light cloudy green, can see to third step of ladder, filter runs 24/7, cartridge filter that i take out and hose down once a day and replace with the alternate that i've cleaned from day before. thinking i need to order a test kit? thanks SO MUCH for the help!
 
Ok, I'm slamming all day today and will see where my FC level is by morning. Once the pool maintains the correct level, will my water be clear or should I expect a few more days of cloudy green until all the dead stuff filters out?? One more question: the phosphate remover seemed to take a lot of green crud out fast... If I wanted to clear the pool as fast as possible, would it work to put more phosphate remover in along with shocking?
 
Welcome to TFP! You can get this cleared, we will help make sure you do!

You aren't done until the pool is clear, you pass the OCLT, and you have 0.5 CC or less. If any of that doesn't make sense please reread the SLAM process, a couple times in necessary. You need to maintain the chlorine level at or above 13 during that entire time. No matter how much chlorine it takes to get it there and keep it there - you do it and you will see it turn from green to white to clear.

If you have phosphate remover that you cannot return then go ahead and use it. It won't do much so don't buy any more, but if you have extra then go for it.

Oh, what chlorine source are you using to SLAM? If it's a liquid, what percentage does it say it is? If it's powder what is the active ingredient?
 
I ordered a test kit and some instant liquid chlorine from In theSwim and was hoping it would be here today but it's not. So yesterday I bought a 5 lb. container of "super soluble" from pool store. It's 99% chlorine. Put the whole thing in this morning and according to test strip(which is all I have right now) the FC level is at least 10. Pool lady said she would add 15 lbs but I wasn't into spending $150 when I have an order coming. So today, while the level was still high, I added 2 gallons of 8.25% bleach... Then I added 2 1# bags of shock (48%). I'll check one more time tonite and add more if the test strip looks like it's getting lighter purple, but it's maintaining the dark purple level all day. I feel like such a rookie without the test kit but I had to start doing something! I. See no change in color, it's not starting to look gray yet...

17500 gallon above ground
 

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Peachcat said:
I bought a 5 lb. container of "super soluble" from pool store. It's 99% chlorine.
It's dichlor, which raised your CYA by about 20, so you now need to treat your pool as if you have a CYA of 50 instead of 30. It won't show up on tests for a week or so but it is in there. Thank goodness you didn't listen to the pool lady or you would be doing some refilling. The "instant liquid chlorine" from in the swim is nothing but cal-hypo, which is the same as the bags of shock. I laughed my butt off when I saw that in their catalog.

So what test kit did you order from them? If it wasn't the Taylor k-2006 then it is probably missing a very important test.
 
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