Ignorant

[Wildcat]

I had Hayward Ecostar and new cartridge filter installed. Save $700 going with a local PG. but he did not install suction or return valves. So when I clean the strainer basket I cannot fill the reservoir with water and it runs dry until it primes. Bad idea, right? I need to get him back here and install the valves. I feel very stupid.

 

[jblizzle]

How long did it take to prime? You should not need a valve unless the pump is way above the pool.

 

[Wildcat]

Pump is ground level, pool surface must be 6-12 inches below. But when I empty the strainer basket it falls below the inlet and water level takes 20 seconds or so to get above inlet and a couple minutes or more to reach full prime, to get to few or little airspace or bubbles. And when run at low rpm the bubbles and airspace reappear.

Problem or not?

Ecostar manual asks for a suction and return valve for this purpose

 

[Isaac-1]

It sounds like you may have a suction side air leak, have you lubricated the pump basket o-ring with silicone lubricant? Are the pump basket drain plugs screwed in all the way?

 

[Wildcat]

I would think so. Brand new install, no mention or lubrication or drain plugs in install instructions.

 

[Wildcat]

PG is willing to install valve if I buy the parts. He is suggesting a check valve, only on the suction side. Hayward manual speaks of closing off valves on both suction and return side. Check valves are seemingly twice as expensive as regular valves.

Do I need

Check valve only on suction side?
Check valve on suction and return sides?
Regular valve only on suction side?
Regular valve on suction and return side?


I think the answer is regular valve on suction and return but need help from you experts!

 

[jblizzle]

You should not need any valves ... they are not the problem with struggling to prime ... especially for a giant Ecostar pump. Now if you said the pump was 5+ feet above the water, then a valve on the suction side could be helpful.

All the Jandy valves, 2-way, 3-way, check should be very similarly priced.

 

[Zadd]

If you have air in the basket during normal pump operation the valves aren't going to fix it. It still sounds like a suction side air leak. Start with the simple fixes mentioned above.

 

[Wildcat]

Do not understand. The manual clearly states to fill the basket with water after you empty it. With no valves the water runs out. So for a while it runs with only a little water until full prime is reached. No air on higher rpm, some small air space on low speed, like 1200-1500 rpm.

I am not alarmed from what I read here about some small air space at low RPM but am worried about the time it takes to prime because I cannot fill the basket like the manual says.

 

[Zadd]

Pouring water in the basket allows the pipes to fill up half way or more aiding with priming. It won't all stay in the pump baske it just helps the self priming pump along.

 

[Wildcat]

So the Hayward manual is being overly cautious mentioning valves?

If I am sold on having the valves, do I need check valves or just good quality valves I turn manually? Seems like check valve are just automatic valves to keep water from draining back if the system depresssurizes.

And, just checked again, zero bubbles or air space at 3200 rpm, small bubbles at 1700 rpm, small air space, about the size of a slice of bacon, at 1300rpm

 

[Zadd]

Someone else can probably speak to which is best. I think every valve causes some water resistance so you would want one that creates the least. I have used Jandy two way handle valves for many years with no up keep and very reliable.

 

[Wildcat]

So the Hayward manual is being overly cautious mentioning valves?

If I am sold on having the valves, do I need check valves or just good quality valves I turn manually? Seems like check valve are just automatic valves to keep water from draining back if the system depresssurizes.

And, just checked again, zero bubbles or air space at 3200 rpm, small bubbles at 1700 rpm, small air space, about the size of a slice of bacon, at 1300rpm

Can anyone give me advice/opinion on check valve vs. manual valve on return and suction side? I am sorry if I am tedious on this issue but I want to do the right thing and also the most cost effective thing to protect my new pump.

Thanks

 

[jblizzle]

The right thing would be to figure out what is causing the difficulty priming and fixing it. You should not need a valve.

 

[Wildcat]

For some reason I am having trouble communicating. It does not have trouble priming. But when I empty the strainer basket the water all drains out and it cannot be filled full so the pump necessarily runs for a time without full basket of water. Is this normal or harmful? The manual makes it sound harmful. At higher rpm there is no air, not at all. At low rpm there is a small space but not bubbles. At this point I am more concerned about the less than full water startup than the little air space at low rpm.

 

[jblizzle]

That is normal if it is only few minutes.