SWG flicker on then turns off

Apr 22, 2013
48
Virginia Beach
My Aqua Rite SWG decided to turn it self off yesterday. I unplugged the power source and put it back in. It would get a reading on the screen for about 2-3 sec. then turn off. The lights will not turn on. I took the front protector board off and looked at the wiring and mother board ect. I noticed that by part # 570-1062-nd the board has a brownish type color next to it. Does it mean this is burnt out? I can take a pic if necessary. Any help in getting the power back would be helpful, thanks in advance. While trouble shooting this issue is there anything i should do for the pool to maintain balance?
 

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jrocksinc said:
is the limiter the black thing? and does the brown indicate it is fried?

Yes, the black thing is the limiter. The brown certainly indicates excessive heat and is a good indicator that the limiter is probably burned out.

To answer your earlier question about balance...yes, you will need to add chlorine as your test kit indicates it until you get your SWG running again.
 
Bama Rambler said:
I'd cut the lug off that wire and crimp a new spade lug on it and see if it works. If it doesn't replace the current limiter.

I agree with Bama Rambler. That black wire connection looks very suspicious...errr, ugly at least. Without a copy of the schematic diagram of the SWG board, it is hard to tell what came first. Bad connection on the black wire or a failed current limiter. My guess based on "seat of the pants" trouble shooting is that the limiter failed and excessive current caused the black wire to overheat. It sure would be nice if we had a schematic of this trouble prone gizmo!
 
jrocksinc said:
just because that 1 area is fried does that mean the whole board is cooked or just that specific piece?
Like I just said in the previous message, it would be nice to have a schematic and then maybe we could answer your question. As it is, the best you can do is replace those things that are visually suspicious...and have a track record of causing the kind of problem you are experiencing.

The low cost of replacing the lug connector on the black wire and the current limiter are worth trying before buying a whole new board. You may be lucky. There have been a lot of folks who have saved big bucks this way.
 
I think a lot of time has already been spent trying to find a copy of the schematic. No luck, that I know of. That's not unusual as manufacturers don't usually want the end user fixing stuff. They would much prefer to sell you an entire new board. We may eventually have a disgruntled employee of one of the service centers make it available, but until that happens, I think we just have to try to figure out what is going on by visually inspecting the board and connecting wires.
 

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