HOT reading on board of SWG Hayward T-cell 15

[Cognac]

Edit: Posts combined to a single thread. Please do not post the same question in multiple threads. Zea3

My t-cell 15 aqua rite shows the following:
Power On
Generating Flashing
check salt On
check cell On

The Board started saying HOT instead of the salt reading three weeks ago. I have been shocking it meanwhile to get by until I resolve the issue. The salt generators are really simple gadgets. the grids are clean and never have had build up over the years. The DE filter is clean. The plugs have good contact. The rep from Hayward to me that the sensor inside the cell was blown and to bypass it. Well, we did and it's not the problem. In fact, the sensor did change the resistance when we changed the temperature on it. So, I don't think it is the problem and I am beginning to think that the problem is the probe before it in the line that is giving incorrect info to the board. The cell is getting hot because it melted the black silicon inside. Somewhere the temp is not being relayed properly or the parts that relay the information are too HOT. In fact, the pool was 88 degrees but the read was 176, then 124, then 74 for the temp. Obviously it is not right.

Any help before I get bullied into buying a new cell?


The cell is clean, I cleaned it with the proper mixture.

 

[Cognac]

Hi everyone!
I have a salt water generator-Hayward t-cell 15 and it is 8, yes, 8 years old. If I had replaced it over the years ever time a pool store or forum told me that I needed to, I would have bought 20 by now. I need some help troubleshooting and deciding what part is the issue.
Board began reading HOT when it indeed was over 100 here in FLA a few weeks ago. The pool temp was 94 so I took the solar cover off and got it down to 86 again in a couple of days with the rain. I quickly realized it wasn't correlated. The temp on the board was reading 176, 157, 126, 76 randomly. I cleaned the cell, shocked the pool to get rid of the green. Restarted system.

Hayward tech said it was the thermostat in the t-cell and we needed to bypass it. We did. It didn't help. Still reads:
Power ON
Gererating Flashing
check cell ON
check salt ON

salt levels are fine, and I did add a bag just for good measure
cell has NOTHING on the metal or inside
connections are complete.

Is there a possibility that it is the feedback screwin cord that is before the t-cell in the line-not transmitting proper info for instance. Could it be the flow switch. Could it be anything other than the t-cell?
Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[JasonLion]

That could be any of: the temperature sensor, the cable, the cable connector, or the main board. Of course that doesn't narrow it down all that much. But it isn't the flow sensor.

Sorry I can't narrow it down further other than to say that 95+% of the time replacing the cell solves this problem.

 

[Cognac]

Which 'cable,' please, Jason? Are your referring to the one that has the pins in it that is attached to the cell itself?
Heat sensor at least changed resistance when we put heat/cold.
thanks for your response.

 

[jblizzle]

The temp gauge is in the cell, so the cable being discussed is the large white one running from the cell to the plug in the controller.

You could try taking the cell to a pool store to have it tested to see if the problem is in the cell and not the board.

Curious ... how do you bypass the temp sensor in the cell? Do you have to cut the caple open and short some of the wires together?

 

[Cognac]

OK, I will try to find a store to 'test' it. I have an electrician next door, so if anyone knows what the 'test' consists of, I would trust it more to be done here.
Bypassing it is by taking off the two screws, the sensor is right there with a black and red wire and you cut if from the sensor and just put a small resistor in between and resolder. If you aren't freezing or going above 104 degrees F, you're fine. that's not the problem here, tried it.

 

[jblizzle]

Interesting. I had never noticed any screws to access the temp sensor. I suppose the resistor just sets a nice temp and then there is no temperature compensation done. So it would keep generating at lower temps (under 60 degrees).

 

[Dooby]

OK, I will try to find a store to 'test' it. I have an electrician next door, so if anyone knows what the 'test' consists of, I would trust it more to be done here.
Bypassing it is by taking off the two screws, the sensor is right there with a black and red wire and you cut if from the sensor and just put a small resistor in between and resolder. If you aren't freezing or going above 104 degrees F, you're fine. that's not the problem here, tried it.

Do you recall what ohm resistor was needed?