First reading of TFT 100!!!!!! Some q's!

[quentin_1]

Hello folks, I got the test kit real fast, got some results

FC 5
Ph 75
Ta 160
Cya 90

My pool is 24k gallons, plaster, in ground, de filter, Polaris robot, run the filter for 12 hrs daily, located in northern new jersey. I am using Biogard products but will be switching over to bbb.

I've got no issues with the pool water or anything. I have some issue with some etching in the plaster that I think just recently formed (random spots around the pool) the pool is 4-5 yrs old, I was told(I bought the house in sept last year) so this might be a normal thing - unless you experts disagree. I am still wondering if that etching is reversible in any way? My gut tells me not but I am a pessimist mostly so pls let me know your 2 cents with respect to etching on plaster.

Back to my first test: Based on the above, my TA at is high and based on pool school, it is somewhat difficult to bring it down. So I am afraid to do anything just yet.

Questions if I may
1. Is it ok to leave the ta alone or it must be lowered? How would you start given that a I am a complete newbie? It seems to me it is much easier to increase than decrease!
2. Is it ok to switch to the chlorine from the bbb method (ie buy liquid at Walmart) first while continuing to use Biogard algaecide and poly sheen? Or do I just stop using Biogard and simply just rely on liquid chlorine, period? So nothing supplemental is needed for algae and water clarity?
3. Simple question - where to discard the liquids from the test tubes? Is it ok to drop them in the pool? I don't want to do that on the ground as it might burn grass or stain stone.

Many thanks!

 

[Leebo]

First and foremost.....I'd like to welcome you to the site! You're in good hands here I promise ya.

1. I would slowly work on lowering your TA as you'll find it will take alot of acid to lower your PH once it drifts upwards....and it will drift up often. Review this article in Pool School and work on this once your PH needs lowered. This COULD also have an impact on the plaster being etched. You never did mention your Calcium levels??
pool-school/lowering%20total%20alkalinity

2. There is no need to continue to use algaecide or clarifier once your pool is 100% clean and maintained on a daily basis. The BBB isn't just about what product's are use, rather than knowing what's in your pool.....and what each chemical does to your water. As long as your FC stay's high enough using the Chlorine/CYA chart you'll be fine using only bleach.
pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock

3. I always just dump the samples into the grass. Dropping the sample into the pool over time COULD cause side effects with your water and should be avoided.

 

[Leebo]

Well poo......

I quickly looked only looked at your test numbers, and missed one of the key test results there. Your CYA level is very high, and you will benefit greatly by lowering this level before you start anything. Unless you have a salt water generator your CYA levels should be kept between 30-50ppm to keep things easy on yourself. By trying to maintain the pool with a 90CYA level you will be spending all your cash on chlorine. By draining 1/2 your water, and refilling with fresh water.....your live will be SOOOOOO much easier in the long run.

 

[JohnN]

I don't see a CH number, which is important for plaster pools. Did you test for it, and if so, what is is?

 

[Richard320]

pH and CH and hugely important regarding etching. It could just as easily be scaling which leaves a rough discolored surface.

pool-school/read_before_you_post

 

[quentin_1]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. Omitted the hardness reading -220 was what I got. Richard320 - is scaling "reversible"? Whatever it is, I can't scrape or brush it off, and I ve tried my wire brush, too. It is a rough discolored surface, spots, small and larger, sprinkled all over, but mostly in the shallower end.

Thanks.

 

[Richard320]

Thanks guys, much appreciated. Omitted the hardness reading -220 was what I got. Richard320 - is scaling "reversible"? Whatever it is, I can't scrape or brush it off, and I ve tried my wire brush, too. It is a rough discolored surface, spots, small and larger, sprinkled all over, but mostly in the shallower end.

Thanks.

Is it raised or depressed? Is it lighter than the wall or does it look darker?

Some pictures would help. Tip: take them in the morning when it's light but before the sun hits it. With the pump off, there's no ripples and no glare to distort it.

If it is scale, maintaining a negative CSInumber by playing with TA and pH, it will slooooooowly dissolve. Wire brushing may not scrape it off, but it does put microscopic scratches in it, which allows the corrosive water to work better. Think years, not days. Then again, if it's pitting, there's nothing to do but maintain a slightly positive CSI to keep it from getting worse. Replastering is the only cure.

Post pictures.

 

[quentin_1]

Hi, took pictures but need to get uploaded somewhere public to post them.
The spots are mostly in the shallow end of the pool, mostly dime or nickel sized, and some have longer shapes (4 dimes). These are slightly raised spots, very rough to the touch, light in color, lighter than the pool plaster light blue color. I also can detect some sand or sand like particles near those rough spots. I ve tried to rub with the Pumice stone and I don't think I've made any progress or made the surface any smoother.

 

[quentin_1]

got the pictures - pls let me know if these help you determine what exactly i've got here. many thanks

 

[redhdgirl417]

Well poo......

I quickly looked only looked at your test numbers, and missed one of the key test results there. Your CYA level is very high, and you will benefit greatly by lowering this level before you start anything. Unless you have a salt water generator your CYA levels should be kept between 30-50ppm to keep things easy on yourself. By trying to maintain the pool with a 90CYA level you will be spending all your cash on chlorine. By draining 1/2 your water, and refilling with fresh water.....your live will be SOOOOOO much easier in the long run.

I am in my first year of the bbb method with a cya of 90, and that's with at least a 50% water change via truck in May. I'm dealing with it this year, does use a bit more bleach (not breaking the bank by any means) and must use fas-dpd chlorine test daily instead of oto but am doing it successfully.

 

[Leebo]

For sure you COULD run with a CYA level around 100. There are even some pool care places that dose the pools to 100CYA and then dose with high levels of chlorine gas once a week. Makes for trips between few and far beyond as it takes the FC foreverrrr to drop.

Issue here however is that for most new users keeping a FC level high daily becomes a chore. One that adds the price tag up quickly. By lowering the CYA level via fresh water you start a new user on the right road right off the back. It also helps as often a new user with high CYA has cloudy or green water and in need of SLAMming the pool. With the CYA levels sketchy at best at levels around 100, it becomes an issue for us to suggest a FC level to shock at.....even if they did wish to dose at that high of a level.

 

[quentin_1]

wanted to follow up: do my pictures shed any light on what i may have? more and more, i am thinking "calcium" build up, in spots. i measured my calcium last night and my reading is 280 which is a sweet spot. should i try something like Leslie Ultimate Scale and Stain remover? did anyone have any luck using this solution? thanks.

 

[duraleigh]

That doesn't look like calcium scale but rather that something that was spilled on the pool surface.

You need to get a closer look and determine if the spot is built-up or etched into the pool surface.

PS - buying something from the pool store almost never works.....regardless of what it is.

 

[quentin_1]

thanks Dave. i can confirm that nothing was "spilled". the spots are slightly raised and not "etched" into the surface. i believe i got these spots after i added balance pack 100 (to increase ph and ta), as recommended by the pool store at the time.