Pump will not prime

I don't have valves to the skimmers - I do have what appears to be a white slide cover that seems to block the inflow of water - unfortunately, that side is kind of broken off, so not sure how well it will work to partially block flow. I think it may be all or nothing on that side.
 
You are correct that the shorter line is the one sucking air. The skimmer basket on each is relatively clean (as clean as they get with the current muck situation). The issue I have with adding a valve on the skimmer lines is that they do not come out of the ground separately. I do not know at what point they join, and I am not sure how much digging around I want to do to find out. The odd thing is that, the prior pump had other issues, but not this one. I went from a 1hp super pump to a 1.5hp super pump. Is it possible that the extra power is exacerbating the issue? I will try adding water to the pool, but isn't it typical that the water level is supposed to be halfway up the skimmer? I am currently even a little above that, and, if I go further, will probably be close to the top of the skimmer. I'm fine doing that if it fixes the problem, but I am wondering if there is something else going on that is causing this.
 
BTW - currently adding water to close to the top of the skimmer (not sure how long that is going to take). I would think that should at least band-aid the issue. If not, I'm not entirely sure what to do, other than try to dig up the pipes and add a valve to each so that the near one is partially closed.
 
They make a diverter valve that you can place in the bottom of the skimmer that is sucking too much water and it will restrict the flow and divert it over to the one not sucking enough. There is a picture in Pool School.

Please post a picture of your pool equipment so we can see how your pipes are laid out.
 
So - my skimmer appears to be an all or nothing deal. There is a small white plate that fits over the line to close it. It does not appear to allow for partial closing (although this used to be attached via sliding hinge, but now it is separated and free floating). I have closed the near skimmer, and everything works in recirculate mode. I have not yet tried filter mode, as I want to shock the heck out of the pool and kill everything in it (and in maybe in the surrounding area as well), prior to loading DE and filtering.

I have three questions:

1) Will running everything off of one skimmer break anything, or significantly decrease efficiency (I'm guessing filtering efficiency would be decreased by half)?
2) Is the cause of this problem the fact that the skimmers are at significantly discrepant lengths with no valves to control flow for each?
3) Is it possible that, when I flow through the filter loaded with DE, that the increased pressure will alleviate the issue, allowing me to get back to two skimmers?

I appreciate all of your help. I am especially glad that it does not appear that I completely screwed the pooch with my plumbing job (at least it does not appear so just yet).
 
You may be able to swap the hinged plate from the far skimmer to the near skimmer and use that to regulate the flow. But no only running the single skimmer (short term fix) will not harm the system to my knowledge. If it allows you to run your filter and start the shock process i would do it. Then you have the option to formulate a plan to fix the issue at a more calm and focused pace( a more knowledgeable person will likely chime in)
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Regarding the diverter valve - how difficult is the installation? The reason I ask is right now I have about zero visibility in the water in the pool, and it is difficult to see down to the lines to install anything. Would it be possible to clear the pool on one skimmer and then install the valve? I found "float valves" on amazon, which appear to simply sit over the line, but I am not sure if there is additional installation required.
 
If I were in your predicament i would close the near skimmer run the filter on filter for an hour or two then get a test on the water and as long as your ph ta cya and ch are decent start the shocking proccess. By morning time tomorrow you should have noticably clearer water(monitor your filter psi and backwash as needed) hope that helps
 
[attachment=0:zy4cvj3z]Intake Plumbing 2.JPG[/attachment:zy4cvj3z][attachment=1:zy4cvj3z]Intake Plumbing.JPG[/attachment:zy4cvj3z][attachment=2:zy4cvj3z]Plumbing.JPG[/attachment:zy4cvj3z]Here are my embarrassing pictures of my plumbing job. I will try to annotate them so that you know exactly what you are looking at, but pretty much everything runs clockwise around the filter, starting with the intake plumbing that comes out of the ground. Please hold the laughter!
 

Attachments

  • Plumbing.JPG
    Plumbing.JPG
    67.8 KB · Views: 18
  • Intake Plumbing.JPG
    Intake Plumbing.JPG
    66.8 KB · Views: 18
  • Intake Plumbing 2.JPG
    Intake Plumbing 2.JPG
    56 KB · Views: 18
[attachment=0:32arxyz7]Skimmer Top.JPG[/attachment:32arxyz7][attachment=1:32arxyz7]Skimmer Face.JPG[/attachment:32arxyz7]And the skimmers ( the water is actually this green).
 

Attachments

  • Skimmer Face.JPG
    Skimmer Face.JPG
    53.1 KB · Views: 18
  • Skimmer Top.JPG
    Skimmer Top.JPG
    57.6 KB · Views: 18
If raising the water that high did nothing to slow the suction down, do you think that a diverter valve would be sufficient? And do you think running it off of a filter loaded with DE might slow it down a bit over the recirculate mode that I have been using thus far?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.