Converting to BBB

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MikeInNH

MikeInNH

0
Sep 26, 2007
475
Southern NH
Hello, I'm on my first full day of bleaching the pool. 12 gallons of Wallyworld bleach so far, it was $2.20ish for 1.5 gallons of 6%. I stopped the Buaqacil in September, when I measured it today with my new K-1000 test kit it read 0 so hopefully it should be a quick conversion. The question I have is how do you measure just bromine? The kit measures CL in the same vial. Hopefully it will be irrelevant seeing the first test was 0 and a test strip looks the same color if it's in the pool or tap water. My pool is about 15k gallons, what should I expect to use for Chlorine on a daily basis? I realize it depends on weather conditions but I'm just looking for a starting point.

Thanks,
 
I don't understand. Why would you want to test for bromine. You are converting from baquacil to chlorine, how does bromine enter into it?

Once everything settles down you can expect to use around 2 ppm of chlorine a day.
 
In Jason's signature there is a link to "the stickies" read those articles, it tells you everything you need to know.

We can't really tell you how much bleach to get, you'll have to calculate your pool gallonage and needed chlorine based on your CYA level, which I'm guessing you don't have any yet.

So read the stickies, get your chlorine level up, keep running that filter, and if you have any questions, post a complete set of test numbers with your question, that way we can help you better.

Good luck!
 
Hi, Mike,

Welcome to the forum. My assumption is that, because bromine is marked on the K-1000, you assumed you had to test for it....you don't. It's a completely unrelated product.

Doing a baquagoo conversion with only the K-1000 is gonna be a whole lot of guesswork.....you're gonna' need something else. Is that your only testing device?
 
People generally test for either chlorine or bromine, but not both, as the tests cross react and give unreliable results if you have some of each. Also, active chlorine, if it finds any bromide ions present, will sacrifice itself and produce active, sanitizing bromine, so even if you add chlorine, it turns into bromine basically.

If you used baquacil, and now are switching to chlorine, chances are you don't have bromine in your pool at all, and don't need to test for it. If you did add bromine at some point, this will make your conversion to a chlorine pool very difficult.
 
I'm still a pool noobie

Ok, I'm mixing bromine up with Baquacil, sorry about that. I've read for hours on this site, I thought I saw a post that said you need to kill off all the old baquagoo before you are officially converted and that there was a test for it. I do have more than just the K-1000, I have the TF-100 kit. Been doing my best to keep the chlorine PPM's up. This morning it was still at 7ppm which from what I've been reading is pretty decent for the first night. Gotta buy more bleach today. Is there a point where you are better off with the solar cover on to keep the chlorine from evaporating? Thx!!
 
Yes, there is a baquacil test. But if you don't already have it there isn't any point in buying one. You can get a sense of how your conversion is going by watching how quickly the chlorine you add vanishes.
 
Keep at it with the bleach and you'll get there!

Good Luck! 8)
 

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buying CYA

Pool still looks great even though the weather hasn't been nice enough for the first swim. My question is on where people get CYA. I searched on here, Walmart and some online stores. I ended up buying some at the pool store, ugh. It's the powder format, it says melt in in warm water. That didn't work too well. I think I saw a post saying to dump it in the strainer and another one that says use a sock. Thoughts? Liquid form seems like it would be easier but I couldn't find it. I can still see the black dot!!

Thanks!
 
Pour CYA slowly into the skimmer and remember not to backwash/clean the filter for a week. If you know that you will absolutely need to backwash/clean the filter in less than a week then try a sock suspended in front of a return.

In addition to being difficult to find, the liquid form of CYA costs dramatically more.
 
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