Learning to use the chlorinator

FailedChemistry

Active member
Jul 4, 2013
30
St Louis, Missouri
Pool Size
11813
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello all,
I'm new to the forum (and to pools), and am eager to learn.

I've been having trouble keeping my chlorine level consistent.
Sometimes i'll get lucky and have it right at 3ppm or so for a while, but then it seems to catch me off guard by dropping to 0ppm. So i'll freak out and add chlorine tabs to the Hayward chlorinator, and the next day the pool is at 10ppm (or probably way above). Then there's not much to do but wait an unspecified number of days for the chlorine level to come back down. Often it drops back to 0ppm, and the cycle repeats.

i should point out that i'm still using test strips at this point. (so they don't show FC results over 10ppm or CYA at all)
Yes, i've been reading your many recommendations on getting FAS-DPD test kits, but i feel like i'm still so inept at basic pool care, i'm not ready for an investment in such a complex testing kit yet. It would be wasted on me.
If it matters, according to the strips i'm currently:
FCL 10ppm
TCL 10ppm
Alk 120ppm
pH 7.8
TH 250ppm


My main question today is how to use the Hayward chlorinator.
I think my biggest hurdle comes less from chemistry and more from the fact that i can't figure out how to use the thing properly. i'm puzzled by juggling how many tabs to put in the thing versus where to set the knob (flow control).

So, how do i go about finding that sweet spot where the knob goes?
i thought about waiting for the FC to drop to 0ppm, and then fill the Hayward to the brim, and turn the knob to the lowest setting - then check FC levels the next day. If tomorrow's FC is still at 0ppm, turn the knob up slightly, and check the following day. (repeat)

What messes with my head is that since the process is so slow, i don't know what i'm doing to the pool for at least 24 hours, right?
Also, while i'm waiting for the Hayward to calmly bring the pool to the proper 3ppm level, i could theoretically go several days with the FC at 0ppm, which is a bad idea, yes?

Any advice is appreciated, no matter how simplistic or obvious it may seem to you guys!
i'm definitely out of my element. Thanks!
 
A quality test kit is vital to proper pool maintenance

Let me give you an analogy of your statement above so you can see how it sounds to us:

I have this multi-thousand dollar automobile, I know I need glasses because everything is out of focus and I can't see anything, for now I using a cheap pair of dollar store sun glasses, which cuts down on the glare a little, but don't want to spend the money on good glasses because it would be wasted money until I learn to work the accelerator which is the current problem that I want help with, I know I want to drive at 30 mph, but keep finding myself going 100 mph or sometimes 10 mph.

If I were to continue this analogy and predict where this conversation was going the next message would probably read, I am wanting to drive 30 mph because the guy at the gas station said I would be safe doing 30 mph, what is a speed limit sign, oh those blurry things I keep driving by, those don't matter because I can't read them....

Ike
 
RobbieH - No, i'm afraid i don't know what my CYA is. i had assumed 3ppm was good simply because the test strip bottle told me 3ppm is "ok".

Isaac-1 - I think a better analogy would be that i'm reluctant to spend money on good glasses because i don't know how to wear them.
 
Perhaps, but we can help with that, the first step is to read over the pool school link in the upper right, it will give you the footing you need to understand what is going on in your pool and what your pool needs (most people get more out of it the 2nd or 3rd time through), and as you probably know by now the second part of the key to maintaining a well balanced pool is a good test kit that will tell you what is going on, these two things will cover 90% of what you need to know to manage your pool, for that other 10% of special case information, or just help understanding the test kits and pool school, we are here to help with. It is just some questions like the one you asked above are so out of context with our ability it answer it does sound to us much like the analogy I posted.

Ike
 
Just so you know, that is exactly why I asked what your CYA level is. So many pool stores and such don't understand the relationship between CYA and FC, I wanted to make an impression that it absolutely matters. If you do not have a way to test it, take a sample to a pool store. Although they almost always get the CYA test wrong, at least we will have some sort of idea on where you are at.
 
Ok. So i bought the test kit.
Looked at it for several days before i could work up the courage to try it.

i had to do the chlorine test several times because each time i did it i was getting a different result. (Wow, i really am bad at this!) Finally got a result that was the same enough times that i was confident i wasn't screwing anything up... so i think this result is right.

Here's what i got. (assuming i didn't blow the other tests)

FC = 5.5
CC = 0.5
TA = 100
CH = 390
CYA = 100

i'm a bit confused by the pool calculator. If i'm using it right, to lower my CYA i have to replace 60% of the water in the pool? Yikes! Is that right? Is that my only option?
 
You are reading the calculator right. Although, in reality, your CYA may be even higher than 100ppm which would require replacing more water ... and yes that is the only way to lower it for you.

Re-do the CYA test starting with 50/50 mix of pool and tap water, then add regent, then double the result. Realize you can pour the mixture back and forth a few times to see if you are consistent. Also realize the test should be done outside with your back to the sun holding the tube at waste level.

Once you get the CYA back in range, you must stop using the tablets because they are the cause of your high CYA levels.
 
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