I'm back . .this time with a test kit!

[Sandib210]

I finally got my Taylor k 2006 in the mail today. And thank goodness because it's a heatwave out there. Now, today my pool went cloudy, I filled it a couple days ago in anticipation of getting the test kit. There's nothing in it but raw well water. Here's what I got for test results:

FC 0 (I put so many dippers in and it never turned pink to be able to do the test, so I'm assuming that means 0)
PH 8.0 (acid demand test 6 drops)
TA 60
CH 750
CYA I did the test two times and I could see tha black dot when it was filled to the top. So I'm looking for suggestions there. Should I assume that means it's 0?

l'm going to use the pool calculator to get started unless anyone has another suggestion for me . . .wish me luck . . .round 2 . . . this time NO pool store by my side.

 

[257WbyMag]

Fill water never contains CYA. You have to add it yourself. Using the Pool Calculator, add enough to get you to 30 for starters.

Lower your pH to 7.2 and start the shock process. Shock, using bleach, until your water clears, your FC holds to within 1 ppm loss or less overnight, and your CC is 0.5 or less. Your shock level (assuming you have a CYA of 30) is 12.

 

[Richard320]

What he said ^^^

And I'll bet the CH isn't really that high. Without a speedstir it takes soooooo much swirling you think it's done and add another drop when it might have just needed another minute or so. Check out extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html to see how to do it with a smaller sample. Less reagent, less swirling. Next week, after it's clear.

 

[Sandib210]

Thanks! Ok so I added the low n slo. I'm surprised at how little the calculator said to use. So shall I wait a bit before I start shocking and re-test the PH or just get started with the shock? I can't believe how nervous I am. Maybe it's becuase I already drained about $200 on to my grass once this summer

 

[Richard320]

Thanks! Ok so I added the low n slo. I'm surprised at how little the calculator said to use. So shall I wait a bit before I start shocking and re-test the PH or just get started with the shock? I can't believe how nervous I am. Maybe it's becuase I already drained about $200 on to my grass once this summer

Recheck after it's had half an hour to mix. You can speed it up a little by brushing. If pH is in range, GO! Hit it hard tonight and you won;t lose any of the bleach to sunlight. Hit it again in the morning.

 

[durandetto]

You might need a sequestrant also being that you have well water. Most wells have a high iron content that can tint the water after adding chlorine. The sequestrant will take the guessing out of the equation and let you know if it's iron or algae.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

 

[Sandib210]

I'll need to read up on sequestrants. Is that what pool store lady called pool magnet plus? Its a bioguard product.

Well it didn't take long for the lo n so to work. I brushed it and it dropped to 7.4 so I started the shock process. I did 10 oz since my pool is 5000g. I'll check it in the morning and repost. Thanks for going along side me here!

 

[Sandib210]

Here are my test results from this morning. I'm surprised that my ph is up again. I'll use the calculator to figure out how much lo n slow to add.
FC 2
PH 7.8
CYA less than 30 ( I still see the dot)

 

[Richard320]

I'll need to read up on sequestrants. Is that what pool store lady called pool magnet plus? Its a bioguard product.

Well it didn't take long for the lo n so to work. I brushed it and it dropped to 7.4 so I started the shock process. I did 10 oz since my pool is 5000g. I'll check it in the morning and repost. Thanks for going along side me here!

10 ounces of what? Chlorine? Not enough. CYA, also not enough, if you started from zero.

CYA will not show up on the test for about a week, so just assume it's there and stop wasting reagents testing it.

You may want to reread the article on the shock process in pool school. It's high levels of chlorine sustained for a while. We're talking a tremendous smack, not a love tap. It's a battle with algae. You want to knock it down fast and then keep kicking it while it's down, never allowing it to get back up, again and again and again, until there's nothing left to fight back. And once you're at shock level, you can ignore everything but FC and CC

A sequestrant is a chemical that binds with metal and isolates it, although it will still be in the pool. Like a sequestered jury - they haven't been removed from society, they're just prevented from interacting. There's an article in pool school about metals as well, that specifies which sequestrants are recommended. You'd have to read the ingredients on the bioguard stuff to see if its the right stuff.

 

[Sandib210]

OK I just re read the shock process in pool school. I was confused because I was following the shock process in the start up of seasonal pools and it said add one oz of shock for every 500g of water. So according to the pool school I should add liquid bleach but what do I add for cya? Stabilizer? I'll have a re read again.
Also, the lo n slow brought PH my phone down to 7.6 so I'll go to the calculator again

 

[RobbieH]

CYA = Stabilizer.

Ignore pH during the shock process.

In the future, if you don't get pink after a heaping scoop of the powder, and especially after two, you can stop. Don't waste your reagents.

 

[linen]

A ph of 7.6 is fine for the shocking process.

I would also check your TA again, since you were on the low end and since you have added dry acid which will also lower TA.

Yes, granular stabilizer will be fine, put it in a sock in front of a pool return (water coming back to the pool).

 

[Sandib210]

OK! Got a sock full of stabilizer and my TA is 54. So I'm prepared to add bleach now. The pool calculator says to add 62 so I guess I'll start with that.

 

[Sandib210]

Well I tied in the sock, added 62 oz of bleach, and scrubbed the pool. It's overcast today, so hopefully that helps. I'll test again in a couple hours.

 

[linen]

OK! Got a sock full of stabilizer and my TA is 54.

That is pretty low. After you finish the shock process, I would bring it back up above 60 ppm TA(maybe shoot for 70 ppm).

Just to check, how much cya did you add to the sock?

 

[Sandib210]

:arrow:

 

[Sandib210]

You may want to reread the article on the shock process in pool school. It's high levels of chlorine sustained for a while. We're talking a tremendous smack, not a love tap. It's a battle with algae. You want to knock it down fast and then keep kicking it while it's down, never allowing it to get back up, again and again and again, until there's nothing left to fight back. And once you're at shock level, you can ignore everything but FC and CC.

I'm not feeling confident that 62 oz of bleach is enough to hit it hard. Since my cya is not on the chlorine/cya chart, I'm not sure what my target should be

I added 27 oz of stabilizer to the sock.

 

[linen]

With 0 cya your FC shocking level is 10 ppm. Once your cya leaves the sock, assume it is in the pool and adjust your FC shocking level up appropriately.

27 ounces of stabilizer is fine and should get you to 40 ppm cya. Normally we suggest adding enough to get to 20-30 ppm cya during the shock process...but yours will be fine if you adjust you FC shock target appropriately.

 

[Richard320]

I'm not feeling confident that 62 oz of bleach is enough to hit it hard. Since my cya is not on the chlorine/cya chart, I'm not sure what my target should be

I added 27 oz of stabilizer to the sock.

Pool Calculator will tell you the levels, 2nd to the last box.

 

[Sandib210]

Ahhh, this is making sense now . . . .I'm getting there. Thanks for patience!,