Newbie, 1st Numbers with TF-100

[MNPoolboy]

After getting "pool stored" for a couple of years, and now finding this site, my TF-100 arrived today. Here are my numbers. To start with, I was thinking of draining about 25% of my water, due to the high CH/TA, then adjusting what I need tomorrow as far as PH/FC/Borate/(possible CYA if I need it or maybe should wait?). Any thoughts? I would appreciate the help. I have a party on the 4th, so I could wait till after, but I am very nervous about having the high CH/TA, since my salt cell had to be replaced after 1.5yrs. from scaling. I have also been playing with the pool calc, and read a tremendous amount about CSI, but have a hard time following the CSI/CH/TA.
Borate= 50-60
PH= 7.6
FC= 3
CC= 1
TC= 4
TA= 170
CH= 400
CYA= 35 (but I did add 2lbs in socks in the skimmers, that just totally dissolved yesterday)
Salt=3400

I have a vinyl lined pool, 20x40 9ft. deep end, cartridge filter, swg, 1.5 Jandy variable pump, autocover.

 

[jblizzle]

You can not lower the TA (or maybe even the CH) unless your fill water has lower TA and CH ... have you tested that?
I see no reason to replace water.

But, with a CC = 1, that would indicate a need to go through the Shocking Your Pool PROCESS ... first lower the pH to around 7.2.

 

[MNPoolboy]

I will test my tap water, is there any worry about scaling, (obviously a little freaked out about scaling up another swg)?

 

[MNPoolboy]

I also just looked at the shocking process and see that the CYA for swg starts at 60, do I need to raise my CYA to 60 before shocking? If not, and I can raise it after, what are the target numbers?

 

[Isaac-1]

If you shock, you should do it with bleach then raise CYA up to 60 for the SWG after your done, using bleach avoids excess wear on your SWG that likely could not keep up with FC demand during shock process anyway.

 

[jblizzle]

No. The shock numbers are the same as the non-SWG table so use that.

Depending on you water temp, your CSI is currently around 0.3 which is in range ... you may want to try to keep it a little closer to 0 or a little negative by trying to keep the pH between 7.2 and 7.5. As the TA comes down due to keeping the pH in check, you will be able to let the pH go up a little higher.

 

[MNPoolboy]

Awesome, thanks guys, dropping my ph now, then shocking up to 16ppm FC!!! How many hours would a ball park be to keep the FC at 16? (I know I need to test my CC to make sure its at .5 or below, and also the overnight FC loss test) just curious on if I should start up with the bleach tonight?

 

[jblizzle]

How does the water look? You need to maintain the shock FC level until you pass the 3 criteria to stop ... this could be 1 day or a week+.

Usually good to start at night so the FC is fighting the water and not the sun.

 

[Richard320]

Awesome, thanks guys, dropping my ph now, then shocking up to 16ppm FC!!! How many hours would a ball park be to keep the FC at 16? (I know I need to test my CC to make sure its at .5 or below, and also the overnight FC loss test) just curious on if I should start up with the bleach tonight?

How many hours? Anywhere from 24 to 800. But yes, start tonight. You won't lose any of the expensive bleach to sunlight after dark.

 

[MNPoolboy]

My temp is 90, and the water is crystal clear and sparkling.

 

[jblizzle]

So it will likely be closer to 24 hours than 800

 

[MNPoolboy]

Another dumb question.....Since I have people coming over on the 4th to swim, will it be safe for them if I need to continue past tomorrow?

 

[jblizzle]

Just let the FC drop below shock level and it should be safe to swim ... since your water is clear and you are just seeing a slightly elevated CC.

 

[MNPoolboy]

YOU GUYS RULE!!! I appreciate the help, I'm sure I'll have more questions as I become more familiar with TFP!

 

[jblizzle]

If you keep the FC consistently at shock level, you will likely get the CC knocked down and can pass the OCLT tonight or tomorrow night.

 

[MNPoolboy]

Thanks Again!!! Have a good 4th!!