Liquidator Install Help

Mar 18, 2008
80
Garden State
Just installed my new liquidator. Overall it seemed pretty simple...what did I do wrong?

The liquidator is not filling with water.

The tube from after my filter is filling with water and flowing nicely, then it gets to the check valve. The tube after the check valve barely has any water in it at all. I double checked the flow direction arrow on this check valve and it is pointing towards the liquidator as it should be. Am I missing something? Should I remove the check valve?

My equipment is higher than the pool water level by a few feet, is this an issue maybe?

Thanks!
Eric
 
Eric,

Remove the check valve(s). IMO, they are too strong for many pools. Mine work ok but I have a large pump and a large differential on each side of the pump.

I am discussing this issue with the LQ people but not getting far. As I learn more about this product, I will have more accurate answers but taking out the checks will get your flow going.

The side effect is that you may drop prime. Let us know if that happens and we'll work on a solution for that, too.
 
Poolhound / Dave:

Thanks for the info. I have removed the check valve on the input side and it is filling up nicely. I will leave the check valve on the outlet side for now since it is already installed that way and see what my readings look like.

Dave:

As for loosing prime, specifically what does that mean? When my pump shuts off, the water always drains back towards the pool - there is a little water left in the pump so I don't think it is running dry or anything like that, just not full. After the pump starts it usually take a minute or so (never actually timed it) to get the water flowing fully again so I don't see air bubbles in the pump basket any longer. I have yet to turn the pump off after the liquidator started to fill, so I am not sure what I will see when I do that; I will try that in a bit.

Thanks!
Eric
 
I was having an issue with the check valve as well. I have plenty of flow and pressure (although I havent been able to check the differential, not enough tools :) ).

My situation might be similar to yours.....my LQ is about 6' above water level. I stumbled on some data about the check valves that Hasa seems to use, and the "break pressure" on them is only 1 psi, so it seems they are fairly "weak" in terms of pressure.....my filter gauge is usally around 12-14 on a clean filter. Maybe there isnt enough "oomph" to lift the water up 6' and open the check valve?

Without the check valve in place I have no problems.....3.5 on the flow meter. With check valve it drops to around 2, and the check valve itself buzzes almost like its opening and closing at a high frequency. Knock on wood I havent had any priming issues without the inlet check valve in place. I do have the outlet side check valve in place....when my filter is turned off, the inlet tube on the LQ empties, but the outlet stays full.

-Chris
 
Eric,

Once your water drains back to the pool, you have "lost prime" so the removal of the check valve is irrelevant. Since your pump primes rather easily, I would do nothing.

Regardless of the LQ, A perfectly sealed circulatory system will not allow any air into the sytem...anywhere. So when you start up the pump basket is full to the top and it pumps water immediately. That's a project for another time....glad your LQ is up and running...I love mine.
 
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