IntelliChlor IC-40, Pentair is stumped.

[jrexi]

Hi All,

I had my pool installed last July (2012). It is all Pentair equipment and my IntelliChlor IC-40 SWG has never worked. Never worked meaning it always shows a low salt reading (when the salt level in the pool is fine) and will not produce chlorine.

Pentair has replaced the cell 3 times, and just recently replaced the power center and I am still having the same low salt issue. Pentair says they are now stumped and have never seen this issue before, lucky me.

After the recent power center replacement, my ScreenLogic still reports the salt level at 350 and I know the salt level in my pool is in the area of 3,800 (had it tested by 2 different sources). The interesting thing (at least to me), is that when we replace the cell, the power center or any other part of the SWG system, I get a salt reading in the area of 350 (it has been as high as 700, but usually fluctuates between 350-500).

I see a lot of talk on the Internet about SWG's needing to be calibrated, but then I also see talk about SWG's no longer having to be calibrated. I haven't mentioned this to my Pentair rep because I think he would have suggested that first if calibration was part of the install process.

What do you all suggest? I am at my wits end and convinced that this isn't a hardware problem, but an install or wiring issue causing the wrong salt readings.

If needed to help troubleshoot, here are the components of my pool:
- IntelliTouch Personality Kit i5S+3
- ScreenLogic PC interface iTC15 kit
- IntelliChlor IC40 SWG
- IntelliFlo VS 3050 pump
- Pentair FNS P60 filter
- AquaComfort electric heat pump

Thanks in advance for your help as I'm beyond frustrated.

Regards,

John

 

[Bama Rambler]

Welcome to TFP.

How did you verify the salt reading?

Has the cell cable been replaced?

Did Pentair send a person out to replace the parts or just send you the parts?

 

[jrexi]

Welcome to TFP.

How did you verify the salt reading?

Has the cell cable been replaced?

Did Pentair send a person out to replace the parts or just send you the parts?

Thanks for the quick response.

The salt reading was verified by taking the water sample to 2 local pool stores for a salt reading.

I don't think the cell cable was replaced, unless they replaced it when they swapped out the cell.

Yes, Pentair had their local warranty repair company replace the parts.

 

[Bama Rambler]

That's certainly strange that they can't figure it out.

 

[jrexi]

That's certainly strange that they can't figure it out.

They are asking for a water chemical report now, so we'll see where that goes...

 

[blakeusa]

Just curious. Your not in Alaska or somewhere where you water temp is very low... or maybe very high.

Water temp will effect the production of chlorine. They are calibrated for 70% water - as that is what Pentair told me.

The only other thing I can think of is the plumbing of the cell. Is there at least 12 inches after any elbows or turns - or is there a bypass valve in the line.

Are the lights on Green on the cell? or is it giving you a Red fault.

 

[jrexi]

Just curious. Your not in Alaska or somewhere where you water temp is very low... or maybe very high.

Water temp will effect the production of chlorine. They are calibrated for 70% water - as that is what Pentair told me.

The only other thing I can think of is the plumbing of the cell. Is there at least 12 inches after any elbows or turns - or is there a bypass valve in the line.

Are the lights on Green on the cell? or is it giving you a Red fault.

Hi Blake, Thanks for trying to help.

I live on Long Island and I keep my pool at about 87 in the Summer; which is the temp of the pool right now. In the beginning of the season when the pool is in the high 70's, i still have the same issue so I don't the water temp is the issue.

I took pics of the plumbing, see them below. I noticed that there's a 90 degree elbow leading to the cell that only has a couple inches clearance before it reaches the cell. Also, that lead is coming out of the heater. I'm not sure what a bypass valve is, but maybe you can tell from the pics.

All of the lights on the cell are green, except for the red low salt light. See below.

Looking forward to your feedback!

John

 

[peacefulkancer]

Hi, I am not sure if you have this figured out... so pardon me if you already have it figured out as this is an older thread.

According to the manual it says on PDF page 10 that "For best flow sensing, provide at least 12"-18" of straight pipe in front of the cell inlet."

http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/Intelli ... 20589J.pdf

This of course is for flow and it seems that your system recognizes flow.

On PDF page 11 it says that "The ICEG should be no closer than three (3) feet away from the heater outlet."

Could the combination of a turbulent water after the neck in conjunction with a slightly too close location to the heater be a problem? Maybe you could just take that straight piece that it is mounted on and swap the long piece with the short piece and move it downstream (away from corner and heater) and see if that helps.