Trying to re-open the pool...

Aug 14, 2012
19
Costa Mesa, CA
Alright, well, this is an existing Intex above ground pool. Details in Sig.

We had the pool up and running last year. Over winter, we succumbed to laziness and in turn, the green monster of algae. I let it go until about 3 weeks ago, I started trying to clean up the swamp. I purchased the TF-100+XL test kit and started the "shock process". I had been at shock level using 10% bleach for 2 weeks, but my water never cleared. I know "most clarity issues are chemisty issues", but I really think our Intex "A" filter was just not able to do the job. I stopped adding bleach about a week ago (frustrated).

Yesterday I repaced the "A" cartridge filter with the Intex 2650 GPH sand filter (thread http://www.troublefreepool.com/intex-2650-gph-sand-filter-making-a-beach-t64676.html for setup issue).

I'm restarting again starting today.

Now, I want this thread to house my pool chemistry attempts and questions. Let's start out with our readings for today:

2013-06-30@15:55
FC:0 drops; 0
CC:1 drop; .5
TC:.5
CYA:70
TA:21 drops; 210
CH:23 drops; 230
Salt (via Aquacheck strip): 7.0; 3770 ppm
pH: 8.2

So, I have a few questions. What to do first, the pH is a bit high, so should I balance that or should I deal with my already too high of salt level. I have not added any salt this season, so is the high salt level from all the 10% bleach I had been putting in over 2 weeks shocking? Do I need to drain off/replace some water to bring the salt level back down so I can shock again?

Where should I start here?

Thanks,

Keehan
 
OK. Done with my additions for today. @19:53 pH was 8.2. PC target of 7.5 asks for 9.2 vol. oz dry acid.

I added 9.5 vol. oz. dry acid

-------------------------------

@ 22:00, pH measured 7.8. After reading a bit more on pool calculator, I set my pH target to 7.2. Let's see if this lowers our TA a bit. Looks like target for SWG pool is 60-80 and we are quite a bit higher at 210. For a target of 7.2 from 7.8 pool calculator says to add 27 vol oz dry acid.

I added 28 vol. oz dry acid.

-------------------------------

@ 00:00, pH measured 7.2. Looks on target. Let's start chlorinating. FC 0. For my CYA of 70, shock FC value target is 28. PC says to add 213 vol. oz (1.7 G)10% bleach.

I added 1.7 G 10% bleach (by the "that looks like .7 of a gallon" method).

-------------------------------
 
Adding my target values so this is all in one thread.

Vinyl Pool with SWCG:
FC:3-5 PPM
FC Shock: 28@CYA of 70
pH:7.5-7.6 (can go to 7.8 then lower pH back to 7.5)
CH: 50-300
CYA: 70-80 (shoot for 70 as lowering this is done by removing water)
Salt:2500-3500 (target 3000)
 
2013-07-01@1:00
FC: 76 drops. 38 PPM Wow. I overshot that one. I have noticed that even when I measure very closely the 10% bleach I have seems to have more effect than the pool calculator predicts. I need to get better measuring tools so I can pin this down. Anyway, will check again in the morning...
 
2013-07-01@07:15

FC: 76 drops, 38 PPM.

So, my FC is the same as last night, but I have only been at shock level for 6 hours.

Does this mean that I have passed OCLT criteria or should I keep the FC at shock level for another day and test OCLT overnight tonight again?

I have been shocking for awhile, so I am not too surprised that the FC did not drop, but the pool is still very cloudy.

Thanks,

Keehan
 
socalspur said:
2013-07-01@07:15

FC: 76 drops, 38 PPM.

So, my FC is the same as last night, but I have only been at shock level for 6 hours.

Does this mean that I have passed OCLT criteria or should I keep the FC at shock level for another day and test OCLT overnight tonight again?

I have been shocking for awhile, so I am not too surprised that the FC did not drop, but the pool is still very cloudy.

Thanks,

Keehan
See if you can pass the overnight test two nights in a row. Also, what is the CC?

And finally, you might want to think about adding some diatomaceous earth as mentioned in pool-school/shocking_your_pool You won't need much, see if you can beg a few cups from a neighbor with a DE filter.
 
Keehan,

Thanks for keeping your info in one thread and reporting your progress very accurately.

You are finished with the Shock Process when....

1. Your pool water is sparkling
2. Your CC's are .5ppm or less
3. You can hold your FC overnight without losing more than 1ppm.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I understand the OCLT shock criteria, but I had been at shock level for 2 weeks. The pool would hold FC level overnight but the pool never got clear (went from green to blue white). That is kind of why I added the sand filter and why I am now tracking this so closely. I'm hoping that by reporting each step of my progress here, if I make a mistake you guys might pick up on it.

Already the DE addition was something I really hadn't considered.

I mixed 1/4 cup DE with water then added to skimmer basket. I needed a total of 1 C DE to raise gauge pressure from 9 PSI to 10 PSI.

Right now, my plan is to take another set of chorine readings tonight, bring FC up to shock level if necessary and then read again in the morning. Anything else I need to do?

Thanks,

Keehan
 

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2013-07-02@07:00:00
FC: 60 drops, 30 PPM (FC should not go up, so I blame bad lighting last night).
CC: 1 drop, .5 PPM

So, overnight we do not have any FC loss. This has been confirmed 2 nights in a row.

I can still barely see the Intex grid on the bottom of the pool. The Intex sand filter has now been running for 48 hours. I have been running with DE for 24 hours. So, do I need to keep FC at shock level still until this thing clears? I've been at shock level now for quite a long time and almost through with my first bottle of FC reagent.

I am just nudging into the yellow section on the pressure gauge, so it looks like I am headed for a backwash later today.

Keehan
 
I don't know what to tell you. It sounds like a circulation/filtration problem now, but I hesitate to say let FC drift down, and I have no firsthand experience with clarifiers and flocculent, and the results reported here have not always been positive.

If there a way to aim a return jet at the deep end to stir that stuff up so the skimmer can catch it?
 
I will keep it up for awhile. I guess that is why we have the XL kit for TF-100. I can see the bottom today, but still pretty cloudy. I had the pump output up and to the left forming a circular current around the pool. I have moved the output direct to where it is still pointed left, but now pointed down to recirculate anything on the bottom. It is an Intex AGP, so I don't really have a deepend. Stay tuned...

Keehan
 
OK, pool is slightly clearer, but still not as clear as I would expect. I had to backwash yesterday and let the chlorine go for a day and a half. This morning FC was still 11.5 PPM with 0 CC. Will bump it back up to FC back to 28 (ADD 128 fl oz 10% bleach) again and do a measurement tonight and in the morning to make sure it doesn't drop and that CC stays < .5. If this is the case, can we swim? Is 28 PPM chlorine safe to swim in or do I need to let it burn down a bit? What level is safe for swimming.

Thanks,

Keehan
 
My CYA is 70 so shock target is 28. I find that this 10% bleach overshoots the target a bit. I know about POP. I was doing this for 3 weeks with the cartridge filter and now a full week with the sand filter. I'm try to be patient but man this is painful. Hopefully just a few more days...
 
I was able to see the bottom center of the pool yesterday. I took a saw and hacked the plastic grate off of the intake inside the pool. This allows me to vac to waste and not getting that strainer full and having all the bits go back into the pool. Plus the sand filter has a built in strainer anyway so the inside strainer is kind of redundant.

I also figured out I was using my pool hose backwards and that is why I was having so much trouble vacuuming.

During the day FC dropped to 20 ppm with cya still at 70 so we swam last night. I opened my eyes underwater and had no chemically eye burn.

I did notice kind of crusty buildup on the liner. Anybody know if this is salt, calcium or something else?

Thanks
 

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