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Thread: Bad Aquabot power supply?

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    Bad Aquabot power supply?

    Hi all, first post, great site! I have an Aquabot turbo remote control robotic pool vacuum that has performed flawlessly for 6 years. When I try to run it now, with the black button on the power supply it will start momentarily. As soon as I let go of the button ( which should start a 7 hour timer cycle ) , the unit stops working. Do you think I need a new power supply? The fuse is good, and the outlet is good. Any one have any ideas?

    Thanks

    Tom
    In gound vinyl L, ~41,000 gallons, Pentair Clean and Clear Plus 420 cartridge filtter, Pentair 2 speed WhisperFlo pump

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    Perhaps this link may help http://www.i-love-my-aquabot-automatic- ... eaner.html

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

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    It does sound like a bad power supply, if it only works while you hold down the switch, and stops as soon as you let go.

    I have never looked inside my power supply, but mine does not have a timer, so it is simplier. Still, there can't be too much to the power supply, so you might be able to fix it, if you had a volt meter, and a little electrical knowledge.

    This place
    http://www.aquaqualitypools.com/aquabot_parts_page.htm
    sells replacement timers, which is most likely the bad part, based on your description.

    Or, if that is beyond you, then I would look for the best deal for a power supply.

    Randy
    20,000 gal fiberglass pool, Raypak 266k BTU Lo Nox gas heater, Purex 2048 48 sq ft DE filter, 1.5hp pump. iWave wireless remote, Pulsafeeder chlorine pump, Safety cover on most of the time

    seperate spa, with own pump, cartridge filter, Teledyne heater

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Thankyou both for your prompt responses. I never realized how much I would miss my aquabot. Anyway, I am going to take the power supply apart, and test it. I already checked some online pool sites, and the replacement power supply for the turbo/remote model is close to $600! I'm checking ebay also, but so far haven't found one with the right connector. Anyway, I'll update when I resolve the problem. Thanks again.

    Tom
    In gound vinyl L, ~41,000 gallons, Pentair Clean and Clear Plus 420 cartridge filtter, Pentair 2 speed WhisperFlo pump

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    Ok, so this morning I tried to take apart the power supply, but it appears to be held together with rivets, not screws. I guess I can pry them out, or just stick with the way I jury rigged it, lol. With a couple of rubber bands and a pencil eraser I was able to keep the reset button depressed. So far the aquabot has been running for about 4 hours this way. I'll make sure to shut it off at the 7 hour mark. Do you think it's ok to run it this way? Does anyone have any ideas on how to dismantle the power supply without prying out the rivets? At close to $600, I'm not getting a new power supply, although I will keep checking ebay for one.

    Thanks

    Tom
    In gound vinyl L, ~41,000 gallons, Pentair Clean and Clear Plus 420 cartridge filtter, Pentair 2 speed WhisperFlo pump

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    New2Me's Avatar
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    Make sure that you get the right power supply. There are several models that use 12v, 24v and even 36v power, and they all have the same plug! If you CAREFULLY drill out the rivets, you can replace them, or use screws to reattach the cover. Once inside, you can jumper the timer with the faulty reset switch and just use the rocker switch on the front panel to start and stop. If you want timed operation, get a plug in timer to plug the power supply into, you could leave the rubber bands and pencil eraser with this set-up too, it won't hurt anything
    22 x 40 IG vinyl lined, 23,570 gal.
    1 hp. Pac-Fab Challenger pump 300# sand filter
    Intex 8110 SWG, Hayward CL220 offline feeder
    Hayward 250K Btu gas heater
    Aquabots

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    tpcorr and New2me,

    Welcome to both. Very interesting thread. New2me, it sounds like you have some background on this sort of thing. We all hope you'll spend lot's of time here on the forum and share your knowledge.

    tp, it sounds like you're about to become and "expert". Keep us posted.
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

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    New2Me's Avatar
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    Yes, I've had my hands in all parts of my aquabots! In addition to the normal belts/brushes/tracks replacement I've taken the pump motor apart and rebuilt it (bad capacitor, major PIA) and I'm about to open up a bad Bravo/Merlin drive motor this week. My Bravo is an old one with a lighted handle, it really looks cool to run it at night!
    22 x 40 IG vinyl lined, 23,570 gal.
    1 hp. Pac-Fab Challenger pump 300# sand filter
    Intex 8110 SWG, Hayward CL220 offline feeder
    Hayward 250K Btu gas heater
    Aquabots

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    Quote Originally Posted by New2Me
    Yes, I've had my hands in all parts of my aquabots! In addition to the normal belts/brushes/tracks replacement I've taken the pump motor apart and rebuilt it (bad capacitor, major PIA) and I'm about to open up a bad Bravo/Merlin drive motor this week. My Bravo is an old one with a lighted handle, it really looks cool to run it at night!
    Do you know where to get drive motor parts?

    My drive motor failed in my aquabot, so it is now a "manual" vacuum.

    A few weeks ago, I disassembled the motor, and figured out that the gear that is attached to the motor spindle was stripped, and as there was no way to replace the gear (even if I had one), I needed a new motor. Not the entire assembly, just the little electric motor with the attached gear, but I could not find anyone who sells parts for the drive motor assembly. I don't feel like paying $300 for a new one.

    Randy
    20,000 gal fiberglass pool, Raypak 266k BTU Lo Nox gas heater, Purex 2048 48 sq ft DE filter, 1.5hp pump. iWave wireless remote, Pulsafeeder chlorine pump, Safety cover on most of the time

    seperate spa, with own pump, cartridge filter, Teledyne heater

  10. Back To Top    #10
    New2Me's Avatar
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    Re: Bad Aquabot power supply?

    I got lucky on the drive motor, it was only corroded wiring. I actually haven't opened up a drive motor yet(again, lucky me!),but the pump motors are of fairly simple construction. They're a permanent-split capacitor motor in an oil-filled, sealed case. The four caps are 470 uf, 63V, axial leads and are potted in the case end cap. Getting them out was the fun part, but they are what fail. There are no brushes. The oil is mineral, I think(thats what I used.) The press on bearing is sealed, the local bearing shop had a replacement for less than $5.
    The Turbo is 24v, the Bravo is 12v. The pump motors look the same. The drive motor in the Turbo is a white rectangle with a sloped end?, the black Bravo/Merlin motor has some round caps on it that look like they can be unscrewed to gain access, but I haven't yet opened one.
    If you have any luck finding the motor, please post back!
    Good Luck!!!
    22 x 40 IG vinyl lined, 23,570 gal.
    1 hp. Pac-Fab Challenger pump 300# sand filter
    Intex 8110 SWG, Hayward CL220 offline feeder
    Hayward 250K Btu gas heater
    Aquabots

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    Re: Bad Aquabot power supply?

    Quote Originally Posted by New2Me
    I got lucky on the drive motor, it was only corroded wiring. I actually haven't opened up a drive motor yet(again, lucky me!),but the pump motors are of fairly simple construction. They're a permanent-split capacitor motor in an oil-filled, sealed case. The four caps are 470 uf, 63V, axial leads and are potted in the case end cap. Getting them out was the fun part, but they are what fail. There are no brushes. The oil is mineral, I think(thats what I used.) The press on bearing is sealed, the local bearing shop had a replacement for less than $5.
    The Turbo is 24v, the Bravo is 12v. The pump motors look the same. The drive motor in the Turbo is a white rectangle with a sloped end?, the black Bravo/Merlin motor has some round caps on it that look like they can be unscrewed to gain access, but I haven't yet opened one.
    If you have any luck finding the motor, please post back!
    Good Luck!!!
    Hi New2Me, I need some help with my Merlin robot. Today it stop working, no pump, no drive.
    I measure the voltage output of power supply, it's 36v AC. I thought these electric motor usually use 12v DC.
    Does that mean something wrong with the power supply?
    16 ft x 32 ft Rectangle 20k Gal, in ground, gunite plaster
    Hayward EC65 DE filter 68GPM, Hayward super pump 1HP, Merlin robot (similar to Aquabot, can't turn on, anyone can fix it?)
    Chemicals: BBB. Tayler K-2006 test kit. Located in Andover MA.

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    New2Me's Avatar
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    Re: Bad Aquabot power supply?

    If you have voltage, then the power supply is probably OK. Different models use different voltages, as my two 'bots do. If both motors quit at the same time, then it is probably the cord. I have had to shorten the cord on both of them, it faults at the first attachment point on the 'bot end. The pulling and twisting of the cord will eventually cause it to either break or short internally. If it shorts, then the fuse on the power supply will open, yours sounds like a break.

    Check the end of the cord, the connections that go to the motors. You should have the same voltage that you measured at the power supply. If it doesn't, then it's the cord, try to see if you can get it to work by moving the cord around right were it twists the most, as that is where it is most likely to fail. If you find the fault, then you will need to cut it, remove the short end and then re-attach it.

    If it has green corrosion inside the watertight sealing of the motor connector, you've found the problem! Cutting all of the factory applied zip-ties and waterproofing materials is not fun, and trying to get it all sealed back up when you're done can be messy, but it a relatively cheap fix. I've used crimp on connectors to splice, covered with lots of RTV siicone pumped into a piece of heat shrink tubing.

    Good Luck
    22 x 40 IG vinyl lined, 23,570 gal.
    1 hp. Pac-Fab Challenger pump 300# sand filter
    Intex 8110 SWG, Hayward CL220 offline feeder
    Hayward 250K Btu gas heater
    Aquabots

  13. Back To Top    #13

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    Location
    Andover MA
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    Re: Bad Aquabot power supply?

    Quote Originally Posted by New2Me
    If you have voltage, then the power supply is probably OK. Different models use different voltages, as my two 'bots do. If both motors quit at the same time, then it is probably the cord. I have had to shorten the cord on both of them, it faults at the first attachment point on the 'bot end. The pulling and twisting of the cord will eventually cause it to either break or short internally. If it shorts, then the fuse on the power supply will open, yours sounds like a break.

    Check the end of the cord, the connections that go to the motors. You should have the same voltage that you measured at the power supply. If it doesn't, then it's the cord, try to see if you can get it to work by moving the cord around right were it twists the most, as that is where it is most likely to fail. If you find the fault, then you will need to cut it, remove the short end and then re-attach it.

    If it has green corrosion inside the watertight sealing of the motor connector, you've found the problem! Cutting all of the factory applied zip-ties and waterproofing materials is not fun, and trying to get it all sealed back up when you're done can be messy, but it a relatively cheap fix. I've used crimp on connectors to splice, covered with lots of RTV siicone pumped into a piece of heat shrink tubing.

    Good Luck
    Hi New2Me, thank you for the details. I will follow your instruction and post back.
    16 ft x 32 ft Rectangle 20k Gal, in ground, gunite plaster
    Hayward EC65 DE filter 68GPM, Hayward super pump 1HP, Merlin robot (similar to Aquabot, can't turn on, anyone can fix it?)
    Chemicals: BBB. Tayler K-2006 test kit. Located in Andover MA.

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