Shock Not Working

Jun 28, 2013
14
Hi, I'm new to the board. I've read pool school and I'm ready to ask my question.

I have an algae problem that I can't control. I can see the bottom of the pool but its green. I shocked the pool (3 gallons of 8.25% bleach) plus 1 Lb Trichlor 5 days ago and it isn't improving.

My assumption is that my Stabilizer (CYA) is too high and that I need to do a partial drain.

Here are my numbers (it rained 2-3 inches last night). Please Help!

FC - 5.4
CC - 6.2
PH - 7.2
TA - 100
CH - 150
CYA - 70
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! Shocking is a process and not a one time application of product. You need to bring the pool to shock level and keep it there until the process is complete. Please read the shock process and defeating algae for more information.

Yes, the CYA is a little high but it is still manageable at 70ppm. You just need to be sure that you are keeping the FC in the correct range for your pool. You can use the Pool calculator to help determine your correct levels for your pool.
 
For long term lower cost would it be worth trying to get my CYA down closer to 50? I have a well and it only costs a couple bucks worth of electricity to pump hundreds of gallons.

Also, I was thinking CC was equivalent to Total Chlorine. I don't have a CC level that I'm aware of. The numbers I posted are from the pool store's analysis.
 
You really can not follow the shock process without one of the recommended test kits. That is why you claim it is not working, because you are not infact following the process.

It would certainly help to lower the CYA first, but the CYA test just happens to be the test that pool stores get wrong the most often because they do not use the correct lighting.

Get a kit. Take control.
 
It can get you in the ballpark. If you ASSUME the CYA is in fact 70ppm, then you want to try to maintain your FC up around 20-28ppm. You will need to use 4 parts distilled water to 1 part pool water and multiply by 5 ... this is not very accurate, but will get you started.

Or, you could assume the CYA is in fact 70ppm and replace 30-50% of your water to get the CYA more reasonable.
 
pezzdog said:
Just ordered the TF100 Kit. In the Meanwhile would an OTO test with diluted water be worth a try?
Just to be sure - the Chlorine test is yellow, not pink, correct?

If so...
From my own research (which I hunted down here using search) Blinding yellow is about 10. School bus yellow is about 12-13. Hunter orange is around 18, up around 25 it starts to look pumpkin orange. I never went any higher than that, but it's been reliably reported that it eventually will turn brown if you get high enough.
 

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pezzdog said:
Think this is somewhere in the 20-28 range? Still awaiting my TF-100 kit.
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That would be my guesstimation.
 
Thanks Duraleigh! I noticed your name and that you're from Raleigh, NC. I grew up in Raleigh and frequently drove on Duraleigh Road.

I'm anxious to add borates. Would it be detrimental to do that before I get rid of this outbreak? I'm already running the pump 24hrs right now so it seemed to be a good enough time (assuming my TA and PH are correct).
 
From my opinion reading on the site, I would concentrate on one thing at a time since you are shocking. Get the shocking out of the way then you can concentrate on adding borates.

Just my opinion though as I am sure others will be along with more advice.
 
pezzdog said:
Thanks Duraleigh! I noticed your name and that you're from Raleigh, NC. I grew up in Raleigh and frequently drove on Duraleigh Road.

I'm anxious to add borates. Would it be detrimental to do that before I get rid of this outbreak? I'm already running the pump 24hrs right now so it seemed to be a good enough time (assuming my TA and PH are correct).
You are still shocking, correct? Then don't add borates. You need to be able to test and adjust ph and ta to do that and you can't test them when FC is over 10 ppm. Why are you wanting to add borates?
 
Still awaiting my test TF100 kit. It was shipped today! Thank goodness...

I just dropped by the local pool store to have them do a test because I'm still trying to get rid of this algae. I'm seeing moderate success (I'm finding out that the shock process is virtually impossible without good test equipment. I'm beginning to seriously doubt the pool store's test equipment. In my post above I had a CYA level of 70, after I did a 40% drain and refill their test came back with the same number! (I was hoping to see somewhere in the 42 range (assuming 60% of 70).

Here are my numbers according to them, but I'm assuming my CYA is lower now.

Total Chlorine - 10
FC - 10
pH - 8.1 (gotta fix this, but can this be accurate since FC is so high?)
TA - 85
CH - 150
CYA - 70 (again, not sure about this one)

They're telling me to use an Algaecide...I told them I'm trying to let the chlorine do its job.
 
You are right to doubt the store. The biggest problem is inexperience, and then there's the fact they usually don't really care. And CYA is the one thing they seem to routinely get wrong.

And again, you are right, let the chlorine do its job.

It can take weeks to complete the shock process. Keep up the POP! (pool owner patience!)

Ignore your pH for now.
 
Test kit came! CYA = 80. The dude that sold me the house must have spent ungodly amounts on Cl to keep the pool clear. Maybe he "shocked" it with a ton of tri/dichlor before he put it on the market!

Well I'm now doing another 40-50% water dump and replace. Stinking pool store testing at 70 cya when it was likely more like 130! I should have had patience and waited for my TF100 so I could test before I refilled. Would have saved thousands of gallons!

So much for swimming over July 4th :-( the water will probably be in the upper 60's. I hope I don't empty the well!
 

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