Chlorine Alkalinity and PH issues after metal treatment

May 30, 2012
17
TC 1-1.5
FC 0-.5
CC 1
PH 6.8
TA 50
CH 200
CYA 60

I tested my water last week and everything was perfectly where is needed to be (maintained constant up to my next issue). Then I noticed some stains on the liner and realized it was some kind of metal due to my chewable vitamin C removing some of the stain. I took it to a pool store to see if they knew what type of metal because my TS-100 does not have to capability and they said it was not iron or copper, but could not tell me without spending 30 dollars for the skimmer test packet. Anyway.... So I added 3-4 lbs of Ascorbic Acid, removed the stains ans a few hours later added 2 bottles of metal free. This morning crystal blue water, but noticed some small algae stains on the ladder.

Question is seeing as how my TA and PH lowered and my TC is off as well, is there something wrong with the steps I took to remove the stains. Do I just need to get my levels back up then shock? Or is there something else anyone recommends in order to get my pool swimmable again?

Thanks in advance!!
 
Visible algae and your chlorine being as low as it is means you need to shock your pool. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Then, read "How to Shock Your Pool".

If you will follow that shock process EXACTLY AS IT IS WRITTEN, your pool will clear back up. Don't let the FC get that low again. You shoulc be around 5-7 ppm.
 
When you did your Ascorbic Acid treatment, had you treated with Polyquat 60 first?

If not, you may wish to do so the next time you do the AA treatment.

Unfortunately, do not be surprised if your metal stain returns upon shocking. It's true, you do need to shock now to get rid of the algae...but for most metals, particularly iron (which is often not read right on tests) the shocking process will oxidize it and cause further staining.

That's why in general I've come to use 2 qts polyquat 60 any time I'm trying an AA treatment ;)

Also, for next time, you need to add chlorine slowly but frequently to get it to "hold" after an AA treatment. The acid fights it. Sometimes it's taken me a good few days of multiple daily dosing sessions to get it to hold.
 
I just saw this response...Sorry was out of town for a while.

No I did not use Polyquat 60 and never have before. This is definitely new news to me. You are correct though....stain is returning now since I posted my previous message.

These "metal stains" are kicking my butt. Would draining some of the pool water have any effect on riding myself with any of the problems I am having? Also, any ideas as to where these metals are coming from?

If there is a different procedure that you would have taken to rid yourself of these stains would you let me know, because unfortunately my methods are obviously not being done in proper order if I am even doing it right at all and I have definitely been wasting money by doing it improperly since these Dang stains keep returning.

Thanks in advance for any help, you guys are the BEST!!!!
 
If you replace water with water free of metals while the metals are in the water, and not in stains, then the stains won't come back. However, odds are that the metals are coming from your fill water, so replacing water might not help.

The AA treatment removes the metals from the walls/floor of the pool and puts them into the water. You then need to use a sequestrant to keep the metals in the water, or they will simply deposit as stains again after a while. Unfortunately, sequestrant breaks down slowly, so you need to regularly replenish the sequestrant.
 
Hi there. I've had "limited" luck by
A) using polyquat, 2 quarts, as insurance when I do AA treatment to avoid algae which would then require shocking.
B) Bringing chlorine back up by slowly but consistently dosing (you don't want to accidentally raise too high or again, like shocking, you can re-oxidize the metals, but you've got to let the chlorine eliminate the remaining AA)
C) Maintaing the sequestate level by adding about 16 oz jacks magic weekly...there are test kits to determine how much of the phosphoric acid left
And
D) making certain the ph never climbs higher than 7.5, preferring 7.2 - 7.3

Any one of the above (or problem with) can in my case, cause restaining.

I also say limited success because in my case I have some historic "spots" and light stains that never completely respond...but the above will generally keep my stairs, drains, from turning yellowish and the overall liner from general, obvious staining.

I also fill with softened water and use a additional filter. In my case, as you may guess, I have a lot of iron in my well, so swapping the water out due to other water table issues etc. isn't worth it at the moment (but will truck water when I replace the liner). Of late, I've been deploying the "10-foot" rule...meaning if it looks good from 10 feet, I'm golden :)
 
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