Few questions on adding borates

[Rangeball]

Just re-read the sticky as I'm definitely considering adding borates to my pool, but have a few questions please-

How critical is it to first adjust to your TA target? Can this be reserved for after the borates are added, or will it mess the process up if you don't? My TA is currently at 170, and it usually takes me some time to get it down to 80, and I want the algae protection now

Is it safe to assume if one has NEVER added borates to a pool that their current level is 0ppm? I'd like to do this this weekend as it looks like we'll finally get some decent weather, and no one local sells borate test strips. I can order them on line for later monitoring assuming the answer to this questions is yes. I do have salt at about 1500ppm. and only use bleach and cya (currently less than 10 but will be adding it tonight to get to 30-40).

I'll have to see if when our Walmart is going to get more in. They only have 5 boxes, and I need 16. Same deal at the hardware store, I need 5 gals of muratic acid and they only have 3 left in stock.

Thanks

 

[JasonLion]

It is a very good idea to lower TA first. If you think it will take a while now, it will take much longer after you add borates.

Yes, it is reasonably safe to assume that the borate level is currently zero. You are still going to want borate test strips, so there is no harm in testing it before hand.

 

[Rangeball]

It is a very good idea to lower TA first. If you think it will take a while now, it will take much longer after you add borates.

Thanks. I'll get this done first while I start hoarding the supplies.

Yes, it is reasonably safe to assume that the borate level is currently zero. You are still going to want borate test strips, so there is no harm in testing it before hand.

Thanks.

 

[Hotrod30]

Is muratic acid a liquid? The stores I go to all have a dry ph reducer. Even Lowes.

 

[JasonLion]

Yes, muriatic acid is a liquid. It is often sold in a cardboard box that contains two plastic 1 gallon jugs. It is not usually sold in the pool department, though sometimes it is in the same general area. Sometimes it is in the paint department and sometimes with concrete supplies.

The powdered stuff sold in the pool department is dry acid, which is usually noticeably more expensive for the same PH change.

 

[mas985]

Rangeball,

One thing you might want to check is your fill water TA. Mine is very high so I have a real problem keeping low TA so borates didn't help me very much to keep my PH stable. Although it still should help the chlorine consumption.

 

[Rangeball]

Yeah, our fill water was 300+ the last time I tested it. I'd like to see a bit more stable PH from the borates, but my main reason is for the algae control and subsequent reduced chlorine demand.