I am very frustrated at this point and I'm hoping you guys can help. I didn't close my pool and I'm now I'm paying for it. I have a 23,000 gallon inground with a Hayward s200 filter. It's been over a month. I started with a bottle of algeacide 60 and honestly didn't brush it well. At the same time I had 2 chlorine tablets in the skimmer and used two bags of powdered shock from the pool store. By morning, it was no longer green, just a milky blue. No visibility. I started scooping, vacuuming, and scrubbing. We pulled out rocks, a chunk of cement, leaves, broken glass yoohoo bottles, leaves, garbage, and straw from the dog house. We have spent countless days getting stuff out. It remained a cloudy blue but I was slowly gaining visibility. I added a bottle of floc at one point and it didn't do much. I was taking a sample to the store every 4-5 days, the just kept saying I needed more stabilizer. I discovered this site and started pouring in 3 gallons of bleach every 4-5 days. I went to a new pool store. They said everything was good but the FC was low and I needed a bottle of stabilizer again- my 4th. After each stabilizer they advised waiting 48 hours to do any vacuuming or back washing. I did that. I explained to the new store my process and she suggested it was time for more algeacide. At that point I didn't know there were diffent types so I don't know what kind that one was. I poured it into the skimmer- thinking it would distribute better and kill any algea in the sand. Since chlorine was low that day I added 5 gallons of bleach. We had a hard rain the next couple of days and suddenly I had green water again. Thinking it had something to do with the new algeacide I went back to my usual store and got algeacide 60. It did nothing. I waited 3 days and nothing. I concede and go get more algeacide 60, liquid shock, and chlorine tablets. 2 days later, yesterday, still green. The store says it must be in the sand. Put filter on recirculate, brush like crazy, change sand, but wait to switch to filter until the green is gone. Today it is still just as green. Filter is sitting with brand new sand in it. Switch to filter now? Pour tons of bleach in periodically through the day and try to clear the algea before filtering, or give up? I know that typically test kit readings are needed and I don't have one so I'm hoping for some suggestions until tomorrow when the store opens and I can get readings. Thanks in advance!
About to give up
- Thread starter Malynda
- Start date
Forgot to add I put in another bottle of algaecide 60 yesterday after switching to recirculate. I also know you recommend buying my own test kit, but I can't afford one for a couple of weeks.
I'd say not after all that stuff from the pool store. Wow, thank goodness you finally found us welcome!!!Malynda said:
Please start reading the link in the upper right hand corner called Pool School. Please read shocking your pool because that is what you need to do. Are you sure that had you add all that stabilizer, do you know specifically what it was and how much you added?
Wow. What a first post...
Algaecide is a *preventative maintenance* and not a silver bullet. You will learn that in Pool School. You'll also learn how to shock your pool as it is not a one time thing where you dump a bag or 2 in and let it go for a few days and wait and see. Shocking your pool is a *process* that needs to be drawn out over a few to several days with a high dose of chlorine that is dependant upon your CYA level which is also known as *drumroll please* STABILIZER.
How much stabilizer did you buy and dump in the pool when they kept telling you it needs more?
Also, as soon as you get the money to buy a TF-100 or K2006, buy it! You're going to need it for reliable test results and to take over your pool and to keep yourself from being pool stored. If you read Pool School, you will be able to take back that green beast and enjoy it in no time but you have to educate yourself. We're here to help but we can't fix the mean greenie if you don't do your part in Pool School.
Welcome to TFP!
Algaecide is a *preventative maintenance* and not a silver bullet. You will learn that in Pool School. You'll also learn how to shock your pool as it is not a one time thing where you dump a bag or 2 in and let it go for a few days and wait and see. Shocking your pool is a *process* that needs to be drawn out over a few to several days with a high dose of chlorine that is dependant upon your CYA level which is also known as *drumroll please* STABILIZER.
How much stabilizer did you buy and dump in the pool when they kept telling you it needs more?
Also, as soon as you get the money to buy a TF-100 or K2006, buy it! You're going to need it for reliable test results and to take over your pool and to keep yourself from being pool stored. If you read Pool School, you will be able to take back that green beast and enjoy it in no time but you have to educate yourself. We're here to help but we can't fix the mean greenie if you don't do your part in Pool School.
Welcome to TFP!
First, thank you so much! I have read all of pool school and just went back and reread the section on shocking. I am just lost as to wether I can accomplish anything without that test kit to know my CYA level. I have put in a total of 4- 1.75lbs bottles of cyanuric acid since I started this process, the last one was on Friday. Two gallons of liquid shock on Friday also. Should I start the bleach every half hour process and wait for the algae to start to clear up? Should I leave the filter on recirculate like the pool store advised or let it filter like pool school says? We moved in her last year and did a total drain and refill to start so I am so lost. Thanks again
Does your local Walmart carry the HTH 6-way? Check also at your local hardware stores.
The 6-way has the CYA test, and is relatively inexpensive.
With that, you could at least get a handle on what you need to do. My impression is that you will probably need at least one 1/3 drain and refill, especially if the "shock" you used was dichloro, which has stabilizer in it.
The OTO chlorine test can be used in a pinch (until you can get the proper FAS-DPD kit) to follow the shock process, but not very well, due to the inaccuracies of the dilution process. You won't know precisely where your FC is, but would be able to tell within 5-10 ppm. Not close enough in my opinion, nor the experts here.
It would be well to your advantage to stretch your budget enough to order the test kit, whichever one you choose. This is the ONE pool purchase that makes the difference between fighting a recurring algae problem, or having a beautifully clear, clean pool. My own experience with this, as well as many others here can attest to this.
You can beat this green monster, and we will be here to help and cheer you on!
The 6-way has the CYA test, and is relatively inexpensive.
With that, you could at least get a handle on what you need to do. My impression is that you will probably need at least one 1/3 drain and refill, especially if the "shock" you used was dichloro, which has stabilizer in it.
The OTO chlorine test can be used in a pinch (until you can get the proper FAS-DPD kit) to follow the shock process, but not very well, due to the inaccuracies of the dilution process. You won't know precisely where your FC is, but would be able to tell within 5-10 ppm. Not close enough in my opinion, nor the experts here.
It would be well to your advantage to stretch your budget enough to order the test kit, whichever one you choose. This is the ONE pool purchase that makes the difference between fighting a recurring algae problem, or having a beautifully clear, clean pool. My own experience with this, as well as many others here can attest to this.
You can beat this green monster, and we will be here to help and cheer you on!
Forget everything the pool store has advised. Follow pool school to the letter and we will be here for any questions. The more faithful you are to the process, the faster it will go. I turn a swamp into a crystal pool every year without much more than bleach. This process does work. You can do it. Maintenance will be a breeze.
You are exactly like the rest of us that came here when we had a swamp to deal with. 
You're definately not dumb... maybe pool stored but not dumb. A lot of people go through the revolving pool store door. Now it's up to you to not go through it.
Cya test didn't get cloudy at all? No chlorine (2 tablets constantly in basket just used 2 bottles of shock Friday) ph 8.2 alkalinity took 13 drops so 130? Even with 16 drops the hardness never changed back to blue- stayed the same purple color it started out.
CYA can take up to a week to show up accurately on the test. If you know exactly how much you put in your pool, you can figure out what the number should be and assume that is what you have, then find your shock value on the CYA/Chlorine chart and use that number as your guide in adding bleach. Understand that it is a process to shock and try to keep the chlorine level as constant as possible. Keeping it elevated for a prolonged period of time is what will ensure that you are killing off the algae faster than it can multiply.
Your hardness is probably much higher than you checked for.. mine is consistently over 300, even my fill water.
CYA is cumulative and it doesn't go away unless it is removed through water displacement/replacement, so everything you have put in so far should still be there. Math is not my strong suit... but I will mess around with the pool calculator and see if I can figure out how much you have in there. Unless a math genius would like to jump in here and save me.
To take a 23k gallon pool from 0 CYA to 40 CYA will take 123oz by weight. You have put in 4 x 1.75 pounds of stabilizer which is 112oz. You should be between 35 and 40 if my calculations are correct. Now you go to the chlorine/cya chart to find out what your shock value is for a pool with CYA @40
You should figure out how much chlorine you have in the pool right now, and calculate how much you need to add to bring your pool to shock level, then you need to keep adding bleach as it is being consumed by your pool so that it remains at the shock value for an extended period of time. Put it back on filter. During this process, you will need to run your filter 24/7 to achieve the best possible results.