Help with VS Pump Configeration

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T

TGMcCallie

0
Jul 11, 2008
119
Flintstone, GA USA
I have just switched from a single speed Hayward 1 HP Super Pump to a new Hayward SP2600VS (verable speed) which is a 1 1/2 HP true rated pump.

It comes set with a default configuration of 3000 RPM V3 mode to prime for 3 minutes then 3,000 RPM (still V3) for the remainder of 12 hours. It defaults then to 1500 RPM (V1 mode) for 12 hours.

My pool is 18 x 36 in-ground with inverted corners (Grecian style). It is 3 feet deep for approx. 8 feet then slopes downward gradually and the deep end portion is 9 1/2 feet. I figured that this would be a total of 21,870 approx. gallons of water.

I installed a flow meter (Blue & White) and while the pump is running at 3,000 rpm the flow meter reads 37 gpm which would relate to 2,220 gph and a total turnover in 12 hours of 26,640. The filter pressure at this speed is 15 psi which is what it was with my old single speed pump running at
3500 rpm. The power being used at the 3,000 speed for the VS pump is 1,160 watts.

The pump ran fine all night and at approx. 6 AM (which is when the 12 hrs was up) it switched to speed 1500 rpm (mode V1) which is V1 default speed. The stats at the 1500 rpm speed is: Flow meter - 15 GPM which relates to 900 gph or 10,800 gallon turn over rate in 12 hours.

The thing that bothers me is the PSI reading of my filter at 1500 rpm is only 4 psi. The water is circulating in my pool but of course no where near the force since it is running slower speed. The water is perfectly clear. This psi is with my freshly backwashed sand filter.

At these default settings, I will be turning over approx. 37,440 gallons of pool water which is almost twice what I think a near perfect turn-over should be (21,870 gallons in 12 hours).

Would someone please look at my post and give me some pointers and directions.

You can google and pull up the manual for this pump Hayward sp2600vs. if you need to.

I have had my pool for approx. 40 years and always operated with a single speed Hayward Super Pump so this variable speed one leaves me with a few questions.

Thanks

Tom
 
That seems like a low gpm. I am assuming you have 1.5 " plumbing? Here is what I run with my ecostar pump on the exact pool you have 18x36 Grecian. I think ecostar is the 3hp model 3400vsp though so that will probably make a difference.

6am-11am 1100 watts
11:30am-12pm 3000 watts
1pm-5pm 1500 watts
5:30pm- 6pm 2100 watts

I think I run it to much but it costs hardly anything to run at those low rpms and it keeps most stuff off the bottom floor. Also allows me to keep my SWG at only 25% to maintain a 5-6ppm level.

Someone else should be able to help you better I was just going to give your a reference since I have the same domination pool( expect mine is only 8ft deep)
 
The Superflo is not very comparable to the larger Ecostar.

I am failing to see the question/concern in the first post?

You are certainly running the pump WAY more than you need to. Likely you could run on V3 for maybe an hour to skim better and then switch to V1 (or even a lower speed if possible) for another 6-10 hours and be moving plenty of water.

There is no required turnover. Read this:
pool-school/pump_run_time
 
I was just reading at several places where it said you should at least turn over your pool water once every 24 hours.
I can see from your references that maybe that is not necessary. What it appears from the references you just need to turn it over enough to keep the chemical levels correct and debris out of your pool.

I guess my problem is I do not thoroughly understand how to configure this VS pump.

I guess I will just have to play with it until I understand how to operate it. I know you can set 3 different speeds anywhere from 3000 rpm down to 600 rpm. I do not know this and maybe someone can help me out:

If I set V3 mode to run 3 hours at 3000 RPM with flow rate of 38 gpm/2280 gph which has a wattage use of 1160 watts AND set V1 Mode for 12 hours at 1500 rpm, flow rate of 15 gpm/900 gph at wattage if 205m will the pump cut off and then start back up at 3,000 rpm maybe next day?

I know that this will make it run very economically.

Tom

The manual is not too clear
 
Read the link again ... you only need to run the pump enough to keep the water filtered enough ... to YOUR liking. Chemical distribution only needs 1-2 hours a day.

I have never used one, but would have to assume that you set a starting time and then program the speed and time for them to run.

3 hours @ 3000 and 12 hours @ 1500 is still overkill.
FYI, the Intelliflo is most efficient at 1000rpm and I think the Ecostar is a little less than that (I don't remember, maybe high) ... so I would think making V1 around 1000rpm would save even more money.
 
TGMcCallie said:
If I set V3 mode to run 3 hours at 3000 RPM with flow rate of 38 gpm/2280 gph which has a wattage use of 1160 watts AND set V1 Mode for 12 hours at 1500 rpm, flow rate of 15 gpm/900 gph at wattage if 205m will the pump cut off and then start back up at 3,000 rpm maybe next day?
Click to expand...
I agree with Jason, that is way too much run time.

You only need one or maybe two RPM settings at most. Since you have a Polaris with its own booster, try one setting at 1000 RPM for 6 hours per day and see if that works.

But 38 GPM seems much too low for 3000 RPM so something doesn't add up there. Did you install the flow meter with the appropriate straight pipe on the input and output?

Also, what size is your plumbing and how many returns do you have in the pool?
 
If this pump is used on a timer, then all three programmed settings must be used. It will start in "setting 3" for x amount of time, then switch to "setting 2" for x amount, then to setting 3 until it is turned off.

Given it looks like you have no extra features that requires higher flow, I'd suggest lowering the speeds of your settings. I've set ours at 1500RPM (About 30GMP) for 5 hours, 2200RPM for 4 hours(About 50GPM), and then dropped it down to 1200RPM (About 20GPM) until we turn it off at the breaker....usually about 6 hours later. I'd guess this is even an overkill, but one we use.

My PSI on the filter too is almost nothing when it's on 1200RPM speed....
 
Mas985, I have 2 returns in my pool. Piping is 1 1/2 inch. This is the reason I bought the Hayward Super Pump 2600VS because it is for 1 1/2 inch piping. All the other VS pumps that I researched were for 2 inch.

I did install the flow meter correctly as instructions stated.

Leebo, I think I have the setting thing figured out. What I did not know was that it has a count down timer so it will do what you ask it to for the amount of hours/minutes you specify. I did not know if it would cut off after the settings expired so I called Hayward and talked to Tech.

I have a Intermatic Digital timer (P1353ME) that I was controlling my single speed super pump and my Polaris cleaner. I was told by Intermatic that it would not operate the VS pump so I by-passed the Intermatic controller and wired the VS pump direct to my 230 breaker. I then did not know if the cleaner would work as it should and if the VS
pump would be compatable with the cleaner.

I called Intermatic again and talked with a lady that was knowledgeable and she told me that the controller certinally would work with this VS pump as well as my cleaner. She told me to use Mode 3 and to hook the pump up to circuit 1 which was for a single speed pump and hook the cleaner up to circuit 3. She told me how to program the digital timer by setting Event 1 so it would cut on the pump and then the controller on the pump itself would take over and run as configured then the timer would turn off the pump. She also said that I needed to set the timer to control the cleaner as Event 2 and set it to cut the cleaner on about 3 minutes after the pump starts, then set a end time for the cleaner.

This is good to know because I was thinking that the digital timer purchase was money thrown away with this VS pump. I was glad to find out otherwise. I did not understand that the VS pump controller was only a count down timer. That was what had me confused.

I rewired the pump and cleaner back through the digital timer but was not successful configuring it as I could not figure it out completely. I will try again tomorrow to configure the timer so it will turn the pump on and off at a set time as well as turning the cleaner on and off. I will configure the VS pump to come on at V3 (3000 RPM) for about 1 minute so it will prime properly because this VS pump surely primes faster than my 1 HP Super Pump did. Then I will set the VS controller to go to a slower speed for approx. 3 hours and then finish out at even a slower one.

Tom
 
There is no need to set the pump's V3 setting to 3000RPM to start off the prime. Once the timer tells the pump to turn on.....the very first event the pump goes to is "Prime Mode".....which I want to say is 3000RPMs for 5 minutes. After that it kicks into V3 and so forth. I just saw you also have a gas heater.....so make sure when it's running, that you're at a setting high enough to fulfill the flow that it may need.

I would suggest this.......
V3.......1500RPM for 3 hours.
V2.......2000RPM (just a guess....run high enough for vacuum) for 2 hours (or longer.....depending on vacuum's needs)
V1.......1000RPM for about 10 hours....until your timer turns off the pump
 

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Your configuration will give me 15 hours of running time which should be enough to do a good job. I will use this to start and then check my chemicals in the pool. If it is putting too much chlorine in my system then I can adjust the number of 3 inch tablets that I keep in my auto chlorinator. I used to fill it up completely which took about 11 tablets. The pool store told me that I just needed to keep 5. I keep the setting at 1 1/2 on my chlorinator and it
keeps the level fine.

I had my single pump (before the VS) so it would only run so long and I honestly don't remember how long that was.
I will just have to check it after I get the digital timer reset.

I will also check to see what the flow reading is on 2,000 and 1,000. I already have what it is on 1500 rpm.

I guess it really does not matter according to others how much water you turn over as long as the chlorine level and my other chemicals remain correct. Also it needs to run long enough to keep my pool clean of debris.

I might add that my pool is approx. 40 years old and I have only had green in my pool once. I figure that is not bad
at all.

I will set the cleaner to come on during the 2,000 rpm speed. I figure the Polaris booster pump which is 75 HP will do the job even if it is backed up by 2,000 rpm pool pump. Am I correct in thinking that?

Thanks for you help as I will be re-configuring the pump today.

I do have a gas heater but it is not in the mix. I just keep the pilot light on all the time and I manually turn on the heater whenever I need it. This was I can make sure that I boost up the speed of the pump of the pump to handle the heater. I just have to use it early Spring and late Fall.

I also have water jets in my deck which will have to be handled the same way. I have separate valves that I open whenever I want to run the deck jets so I can also manually increase the pump speed when I do that which is only when we may have a party etc.

I will be using the last load circuit in my digital timer to turn my color logic pool light on. Before I can install the light, I have to swap out the niche because the one I have will not work with the light. That is going to be a problem because I have to have someone tunnel under the deck and diving board to install it. The sorry person that remodeled my pool sold me the light and said it would adapt to my swimquip niche but it would not because the swimquip niche is too small. This is going to be a big job unless I can find me someone to do it economically. Maybe my Mexican gardener can find me someone.

The pool contractor told me that he could get an adapter to adapt it to my niche but that was a lie and then he would not give me my money back for the light. I guess I will try to have this done this Summer. I still have contact with the individual who installed my pool years ago. He used to work for me and said he would come down and see what I needed and help me overlook the job.

Tom

Tom

Thanks

Tom

Tom
 
Leebo said:
There is no need to set the pump's V3 setting to 3000RPM to start off the prime. Once the timer tells the pump to turn on.....the very first event the pump goes to is "Prime Mode".....which I want to say is 3000RPMs for 5 minutes. After that it kicks into V3 and so forth. I just saw you also have a gas heater.....so make sure when it's running, that you're at a setting high enough to fulfill the flow that it may need.

I would suggest this.......
V3.......1500RPM for 3 hours.
V2.......2000RPM (just a guess....run high enough for vacuum) for 2 hours (or longer.....depending on vacuum's needs)
V1.......1000RPM for about 10 hours....until your timer turns off the pump
Click to expand...
****************************************************************************************************Leebo, I followed your suggestion:
I set the digital timer to turn the pump on at 8 AM and off at 11PM
I set the digital timer to turn the cleaner on at 12:30 PM and off at 3PM. This will be running at the time that the pool
pump is running at 2,000 rpm at a flo rate of 1,440 gallons per hour. Is this enough flow for the pump to supply enough water to the 3/4 HP Polaris cleaner pump?

I will set the VS pump the following:
V3 1500 RPM for 3 hours
V2 2000 RPM for 4 hours (this will cover the 2 1/2 hr that the cleaner is on.
V1 1,000 RPM for the remainder of time since you can't set it for a specific time. It will cut off at 11 PM when the digital
timer stops the pump.

My calculations with the above setting for the VS pump will turn over 15,660 gallons of my 21,600.

Hopefully this will do the job.

Does it look right to you.

Thanks
Tom
 
Those timers look to be a good starting point. IF after a day or two your water starts to look "dull" then adjust the speeds and length of your timers.

I too would feel guilty if I don't warn you of the use of pucks in your pool.
 
Leebo said:
Those timers look to be a good starting point. IF after a day or two your water starts to look "dull" then adjust the speeds and length of your timers.

I too would feel guilty if I don't warn you of the use of pucks in your pool.
Click to expand...
****************************************************************************************************
Why are pucks (3 inch chlorine stabilized tablets) not advisable. That is all I have used for almost 40 years.
I know once the cya was high and I had to drain about 1/2 of my water and refill and that corrected the problem.

If not stabilized tablets what do you suggest that would be better?

Tom
 
Liquid chlorine is advised.

I just did the math in another thread. Assuming your pool needs 2ppm of FC every day (pretty normal if not low), and only tablets are used, that will add 39ppm of CYA in one month. That is not sustainable without water replacement pretty often.
 

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