Updated - New timer and pump ROI

Bal

0
Jun 18, 2013
16
I recently bought a St Louis 1972 home with a diving pool. I am step by step working on the house and the pool is one of the major projects. But heavy work is down the list as its functional now. So looking for power savings, noise reduction, and auto chlorination for now. Original to the house, it has no spa or any water features:

- 28-30,000 gal open "L" pool 8 ft dive end 4ft shallow with original plaster
- AO Smith B855 motor pump that runs 24/7
- Single 2" return and 1.5" discharge line to pool (line from ground is 2" both ways but the lines from Filter to Heater, and heater to ground return are 1.5")
- 2 skimmers and bottom drain (I assume they all pipe together back the single return at pump)
- Raypak 2100 heater - Faulty LCD (otherwise functional)
- Pentair NSP72 - Diatomaceous Earth Filter
- Pressure on filter reads ~25psi (not sure if they back washed yesterday so I will check again after a backwash)

I plan to replace the motor with a B2983 per B855 Motor Discussion
Add timer Intermatic 1353ME with case 2T2502GA
Add Hayward CL220 offline chlorine feeder
Eventually replace board on heater (works fine, just can not read display) We use rarely so not in a hurry to spend the $300ish to fix

At $.08 kWh I am spending just under a $1K currently running for 7 months of the year.
Between the timer and 2 speed pump I calculated a saving of ~$600 a year compered to the status quo assuming a run time of 12 hours each day


It needs coping replacement, deck work (concrete), and a new resurface. But the pump should pay for itself in a year with a timer and new motor " I think". Can anyone check my thought processand let me know if my plan is right? (pups, run times, etc)

Thanks for any help!
 

Attachments

  • Pool System.jpeg
    Pool System.jpeg
    167.8 KB · Views: 69
  • Pool.JPG
    Pool.JPG
    153.7 KB · Views: 68
Updated the first post so any feedback on equipment choices would be welcome.

Also a quick question, why do they downsize the discharge lines to 1.5 between the filter, heater, and 2" return to the pool? Seems like you gain friction losses
 
Even with a two speed motor running on low, chances are you will be fine with something more like 6 hours a day. Pools need a lot less run time than most people seem to think. With a two speed motor, you should be able to save around 85% of your current electrical costs by running on low speed for 4 to 8 hours a day. Ideally pump run time should be split into two or three blocks spread across the whole 24 hour period.

The Intermatic timers are very well though of, perhaps the T104. It is mechanical, but totally reliable and inexpensive. The 1353ME is a great timer, but more than you actually need.

Personally, I would skip the CL220. Around here we are not fans of using trichlor tablets.
 
Well looking at the mechanical timer I am confused as to which works with a 2 speed pump. As the filter pump is the only pump I have I have to be able to turn it on high for vacuuming.

What mechanical timer allows both low and high? Do I have to wire a switch in?

Tried searching for the answers but it was not clear.

Thanks
 
In your OP you said that you were going to buy an Intermatic 1353PE. That's a good timer for running a 2-speed pump.
The T10604R is a good mechanical timer for a 2 speed pump.

You don't need to install a switch per-se but you need a way to disconnect the power locally and most people use a switch to do that.
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.