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Thread: Premature LED failure

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    106

    Premature LED failure

    I have the Poolstar 1000 LED system, one of the lights just burned out, this is a new installation and the lights are hardly used, this is far from the so claimed 100,000 hrs lifespan. I hope I just got a bad bulb. Did anyone have any experience with LED premature failure? It's a hassle to replace the light, I spent 3 hours to lower the water. Poolstar is made by O'Ryan Industries in Washington state. Has anyone used their products?
    Is it possible to use a different make of light, is the size of the niche standard. Mine has an internal diameter of 2 inches.
    Thanks.
    OH TWINS
    San Juan 8500 gal Fiberglass Pool, Sta-Rite Max-E 1 HP pump, Star-Rite System 3 Cartridge Filter 300 sq. ft,
    Sta-Rite Max-E 200,000 BTU gas heater, Aqua Logic SWG with P-4 panel. Goldline wireless remote control,
    3 Jandy Neverlube Valves with Goldline motorized control, iRobot Verro 500 pool cleaner
    5 Poolstar 1000 LED Lights, LED strip light at waterfall, Prozone Ozonator PZ7 with degasser column,
    Jandy Auto Waterfill, Aquamatic motorized pool cover, Poolbuster Max CC handheld vacuum.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    441
    Ke,

    Sorry to hear about the failure of your Poolstar 1000 LED pool light.

    It's a hassle to replace the light, I spent 3 hours to lower the water.
    I was going to say that pool draining is not necessary in order to replace pool light bulbs, but then I took a gander at the PoolStar 2500 instruction manual (link for the PoolStar 1000 was broken on the O'Ryan website). The PoolStar 2500 manual does indeed say to lower the level of the pool below the light niche.

    This "feature" would be enough for me to NEVER use this type of light. I"m not sure about the size of the niche and whether you could use a different type of light. From a quick perusal of the PoolStar 2500 manual, my initial impression is that this niche is not standard. In fact, the manual states that the niche is a "dry niche", whatever that means.

    Good luck.

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

  3. Back To Top    #3

    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    106
    Dry niche means it has to stay dry. To replace the light, you have to lower the water pass the light, unscrew the lens to get to the light. Once you've lowered the water, the rest is quite simple. Luckily the lights are about 12 inches below the waterline, otherwise it would have taken even longer to lower the water. Poolstar 1000 is a smaller version of the Poolstar 2500, the design is similar.
    OH TWINS
    San Juan 8500 gal Fiberglass Pool, Sta-Rite Max-E 1 HP pump, Star-Rite System 3 Cartridge Filter 300 sq. ft,
    Sta-Rite Max-E 200,000 BTU gas heater, Aqua Logic SWG with P-4 panel. Goldline wireless remote control,
    3 Jandy Neverlube Valves with Goldline motorized control, iRobot Verro 500 pool cleaner
    5 Poolstar 1000 LED Lights, LED strip light at waterfall, Prozone Ozonator PZ7 with degasser column,
    Jandy Auto Waterfill, Aquamatic motorized pool cover, Poolbuster Max CC handheld vacuum.

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