Become a TFP Supporter Pool Math Forum Rules Pool School
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 28

Thread: High Chlorine levels

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53

    High Chlorine levels

    now that i have the pump all fixed and everything i tested the water and the chlorine levels are pretty high.
    Free chlorine is 10
    and chlorine is at 7
    what should i do to lower them? because the sun hasnt been out much.
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  2. Back To Top    #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Central VA
    Posts
    328
    Jason or a long-timer may chip in here, but if you mean that your FC is 10 and your CC is 7 (meaning a Total Chlorine of 17), that is high, BUT if your CC is 7, you need to get rid of that...usually done by shocking.
    If you look at the pool calculator in Jason's signature, you can see how much chlorine you would need to raise your chlorine for your size pool.
    --BUT the best thing to do is post a full set of test results (FC, CC, pH, TA, CYA) and you can get a better answer than I gave here.
    Todd
    --------------
    Pool: 16x36, 16,800 gal., vinyl, sand filter, SWG & AquaCal Heat Pump
    Spa: Hot Springs Sovereign, 355 gal., ozone/ion
    The most helpful tool you'll ever have for your pool:
    http://www.poolcalculator.com/

  3. Back To Top    #3
    frustratedpoolmom's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    SWSuburban Chicago, IL
    Posts
    11,963
    Assuming the CC is an error, the chlorine will dissapate over a couple of days...can't hurt anything and if you want to swim it should be okay just rinse off after.... I've had my chlorine over 10 plenty of times and there's been no issues...
    Helpful links: Pool School; CYA/Chlorine Chart
    24' round AG pool, 52" high, Raypak heater; Waterway 2 spd Pump;
    150 Sq ft. Clearwater Cartridge Filter; Former and DISSATISFIED "Pool Frog" owner
    http://www.PerfectlyClearPoolService.com

  4. Back To Top    #4
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    10,045
    I agree with Todd.


    Quote Originally Posted by tnthudson
    --BUT the best thing to do is post a full set of test results (FC, CC, pH, TA, CYA) and you can get a better answer .....
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  5. Back To Top    #5

    In the Industry
    duraleigh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sebring, Florida
    Posts
    28,394
    Albert,

    Share with us why your pump wouldn't prime....I could not figure that out!
    Dave S. - Forum owner
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
    TFTestkits , PoolMath , Pool School

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    took the drain king to it and then a lot of gunk started shooting out of the returns and also i took your advice and checked the impeller and man let me tell you was that clogged with leaves so i took a small screwdriver and cleaned that off then i filled the basket with the garden hose and that took care of the problem with the priming. now i cant seem to figure out how to clear out the murky water i have.
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  7. Back To Top    #7
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    37,887
    You want to shock the pool, basically lots of chlorine. See this article for a through write up on shocking.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    ok so ive tried shocking the pool everyday and it hasnt cleared up yet. on the top layer of the water it looks fine but its just a little foggy and in the deep end it is foggy with a small tint of green. i have a week before we are going to have a party and i have not the slightest clue on what to do. i am hoping to have it ready if not then i think im going to close it for the season because this is becomming more of a headache then i thought it would be. any help would be great.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    441
    albert,

    To reiterate tnhudson's advice that he gave you two days ago:

    -BUT the best thing to do is post a full set of test results (FC, CC, pH, TA, CYA) and you can get a better answer than I gave here.
    We NEED a full set of test results to give you the help you are looking for. Without solid DATA we would just be guessing (and you could use your local pool store for that ).

    If you don't have forum member Duraleigh's TF-100 kit, or the Taylor K-2006 kit, or the Leslie's FAS/DPD kit, then your best option right now is to go to the local pool store and have them test your water, paying special attention to the CYA level. Even better would be to get two pool stores to test your water. DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM THEM YET. That will come later - maybe. Post the COMPLETE test results here as soon as possible.

    Maybe we can still salvage your swim party for you. 8) But you have to hurry.

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    ok i will test my water and post a full set of results.
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    ok i took the water to get tested and all he told me was that the
    alkalinity is at 180 ppm
    pH- is at about 8 or so
    and the CYA was at 0
    so i put in some stabilizer. will that help with the clearing?
    they said that the chlorine level is just a little high but that shouldnt matter much.
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  12. Back To Top    #12
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    37,887
    Yes the stabilizer will help. You should also lower your PH to about 7.4. You can lower the PH with either 7 cups of muriatic acid or with just under 5 lbs of dry acid.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  13. Back To Top    #13

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    ok so i lowered both and i still have no results to show for it. how much would a pool company charge to come out and clean the bottom of my pool and set my water right? because i am having a party in a week and am willing to do just about anything to get it ready to swim in. we have had about 10 good days that we can swim but the pool isnt ready.
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  14. Back To Top    #14
    When you're shocking the pool, how high is your chlorine getting?

  15. Back To Top    #15
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    10,045
    Albert, you still need to shock your pool. Here is Jason's previous post w/a link to 'clearing the green swamp....'. If you follow the steps, your pool WILL clear.

    Quote Originally Posted by JasonLion
    You want to shock the pool, basically lots of chlorine. See this article for a through write up on shocking.
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

  16. Back To Top    #16

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    ok i will try that today
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  17. Back To Top    #17

    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    441
    albert,

    You are going to have to test your pool's FC several times a day. The basic idea behind raising the FC to shock levels is to hit the algae hard and fast and keep hitting it hard. The algae dying will consume chlorine, as will the sun. Testing for FC several times a day will ensure that the FC level never falls to a level that lets the algae regain a foothold back.

    Tell us exactly what you do and what your test results are through today and tomorrow. And also what the water looks like.

    Good luck.

    Titanium
    24,000 gallon inground freeform pool/spa circa 1983 (113 ft perimeter, 625 sq ft) with 350 gallon attached spill-over spa
    2007 2 HP, three-phase Hayward TriStar pump which is powered by an Ikeric VS-200 variable speed drive system
    1983 Laars XE Pool/Spa Heater Type ES 400,000 BTU, 1998 Hayward Super Star-Clear C-4000 cartridge filter (400 sq ft, 4 separate cartridges)
    1998 Polaris 380 pressure-side cleaner w/ 3/4 HP booster pump
    One skimmer :( and one PoolSkim :), One Supervision Galaxy LED pool lamp, Second story solar panels
    Hayward/GoldLine AquaLogic PS4 (replaced 1983 vintage dual circuit Intermatic timer)

  18. Back To Top    #18

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    ok so first i had a little help from the leaf vac just to get all of the organic junk that was still at the bottom and that worked really well then i shocked it but before i did that i tested the water.
    free chlorine- 5
    pH-7.2
    Alkalinity- 170
    CYA-110
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  19. Back To Top    #19

    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    53
    so far the water looks like a grayish green i added some copper based alge killer today and scrubbed it and the water levels are as follows
    Free Chlorine-12
    pH-8.4
    Alkalinity-160
    CYA-100
    20k fiberglass w/ vinal liner, 1Hp magneTek Centurion Switchless Motor, Hayward Pro Series high rate 20" sand filter, Hayward RP 2100 Digital Heater.

  20. Back To Top    #20
    JasonLion's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Silver Spring, MD
    Posts
    37,887
    CYA was 0 a little while ago and now it appears to be around 100? How much CYA/stabilizer did you add? Or perhaps you are using test strips? Many test strips are quite bad at measuring CYA levels.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •