TF100 results

[dbizzle22]

13,500 gallon pool. Recently swapped an old energy hog Whisperflo for an Intelliflo Variable Speed. Pump works at 1000rpm for 9 hrs day. Fiilter is a Clean & Clear 320 cartridge. Likely let the new pump run at too slow of a speed early on and now its slightly greenish so I quickly went and changed out my cartridges and turned the pump speed/runtime up to where its at now. Pool guy also put a tablet of chlorine in my skimmer. Its sitting there still after 2 days.

Got my test kit in the mail today and this is what I came up with. First shot at it so definitely open to suggestions on what I might have going on here.

FC: 8 drops x .5 = 4ppm

CC: 0

TA: 22 drops x 10 = 220

CH: 31 drops x 10 = 330

CYA: ~ 65

 

[Isaac-1]

I am not sure what the topic of this message is, one thing that is going on here if your using trichlor tabs is your CYA is quickly getting into the unmaintainable realm which will require partial water replacement to correct. We generally suggest a max CYA of about 50 ppm for a manually chlorinated pool, and 70 ppm if you have an SWG. Your FC is also way too low for your CYA level, which is what allows algae to start growing.

Ike

 

[duraleigh]

If you see green algae, you need to shock the pool. Is that what you are asking?

 

[dbizzle22]

'm new to the game and trying to take to see if I can handle the pool care myself ( with this forums help ). What I meant by posting these test kit #'s was for the experts here to see what looks out of wack. Then hopefully with your suggested fixes for the pool's issues, I can get it back up to specs.

Trichlor tab: Should I remove from my skimmer and put it in a floater instead?

FC too low: How do i get that fixed quickly to stop the algae from spreading?

 

[duraleigh]

If you see visible algae, it is time to shock the pool. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Then, read "How to Shock Your Pool". That should generate some questions so ask away and we'll all help get your pool clear.

 

[Isaac-1]

The problem is not where you have your trichlor, but that your using trichlor when you have such a high CYA level. (Trichlor adds FC and CYA to the water, it is also very acidic so lowers pH so you don't want to leave it in the skimmer unless the pump runs full time as it can damage the seals in your pump and valves)

Ike

 

[dbizzle22]

If you see visible algae, it is time to shock the pool. read "The ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. Then, read "How to Shock Your Pool". That should generate some questions so ask away and we'll all help get your pool clear.

Thanks! I'll read that after having a dinner break. Then be back here with more questions

The problem is not where you have your trichlor, but that your using trichlor when you have such a high CYA level. (Trichlor adds FC and CYA to the water, it is also very acidic so lowers pH so you don't want to leave it in the skimmer unless the pump runs full time as it can damage the seals in your pump and valves)

Ike

My pH using the Taylor test included with the tf100 was basically off the charts. A very dark purple color. Wouldn't I want some acidity to lower the pH?

I'll go and get a floating chlorine device tomorrow. Definitely don't want to ruin any hardware or seals!

Should I even bother with any corrections if you're saying I need to drain pool some and fill with fresh water?

 

[scott.MI]

I'll go and get a floating chlorine device tomorrow. Definitely don't want to ruin any hardware or seals!

The problem is not where you have your trichlor, but that your using trichlor when you have such a high CYA level. (Trichlor adds FC and CYA to the water,

one thing that is going on here if your using trichlor tabs is your CYA is quickly getting into the unmaintainable realm which will require partial water replacement to correct. We generally suggest a max CYA of about 50 ppm for a manually chlorinated pool, and 70 ppm if you have an SWG.

I think you misunderstood what he was trying to say...simply put, stop using your pucks/tablets. Your CYA level is high enough, maybe slightly too high, but every tablet you use just makes is higher. Your making your situation worse by continuing to use them

Yes, if purple is what happens for off the chart high PH then yes you need muratic acid to lower it.

 

[techguy]

Sounds to me like you need more CL, from liquid chlorine ONLY. I can't look here but 4 ppm CL is likely below minimum for a CYA of 65. When your CL is below minimum for your CYA, you are not killing algae and it will get green.

iMHO, you need to add enough liquid chlorine to get to your shock level for 65 and stay there until its clear.

Also, take the puck out of the water. It's not your friend and its making it harder to clean your pool by making your already high CYA higher.

 

[Isaac-1]

You might be best served by replacing about 20-25% of your water to lower your CYA level before attempting the shock process, as it will likely make the process go easier and you will use less liquid chlorine to complete it. As I mentioned earlier right now your at the upper bounds of manageable CYA levels which can make clearing algae more difficult, but not yet impossible. But before you do any of that, get your pH in line, it is possible the green you are seeing is caused by metals in your water dropping out of suspension due to very high pH levels.

Ike

 

[dbizzle22]

OK puck removed now. 2 days and I'm getting these numbers:

FC: 3.5
pH: 9.5? Guessing since its off the tester's chart
CYA: ~65

- Get some muriatic acid ( Pool Calculator says I need about 2 quarts ) and add to the pool to get my pH in range?
- CYA: I'm currently looking at replacing my pool plastered due to cracks that are forming. So in order to save some time and money with draining/refilling all over again, is there anything I can do to lower the CYA in a cost effective temporary way?

 

[duraleigh]

LOWER YOUR pH!! Somehow, we have overlooked that in this thread. Your FIRST priority should be to get pH down into the 7's.

I would do that in two (or more) dosages. Add 3/4 of what poolcalculator calls for, let circulate for 1 hour, test again and add suggested full amount. Keep doing that until your pH is in the 7's. Report back when that's done

 

[techguy]

The only way to remove CYA from you pool is to replace water. It sounds like pH is your largest issue today.

Algae can be managed with a CYA of 65 but it requires more CL because your shock levels are higher.

Have you added anything to address your pH? Pool Calculator will help you.

Duraleigh is very respected. You need to follow the pH instructions before throwing any more money at the wrong issues.

 

[duraleigh]

Duraleigh is very respected.

May I please show this to my wife??

I am posting again to emphasize we sorta' let OP down by not addressing his pH issue right away but now that we have, dbizzle22, the ball is in your court to reduce your pH before you do anything else and sooner rather than later.

 

[techguy]

If it keeps you off the couch or out of the dog house, be my guest.

The issue I see, will she know what skill is "most respected" and is it the one you were hoping for? LOL (married 24 years this week)

 

[dbizzle22]

Duraleigh is very respected.

May I please show this to my wife??

I am posting again to emphasize we sorta' let OP down by not addressing his pH issue right away but now that we have, dbizzle22, the ball is in your court to reduce your pH before you do anything else and sooner rather than later.

Thanks and I'm stopping by the local Home Depot to grab the muriatic acid right as soon as I get off of work. I'll report back after I drop it in the pool and retest.
Wish me luck!

 

[dbizzle22]

Added about 32 oz of muriatic acid this morning to the pool when the pump turned on. Few hours later during my lunch break I checked and I can already see the pH dropping. I'll go and add the remainder of the recommended dosage later today. Hopefully I can get the pH under control within the next day or so! I also need to get some liquid chlorine as the test shows it fading down to the 2.5 or 3 range. From you guys that is way too low for my currently sky high CYA levels.

After that I'm guessing TA and CYA are my next big issues. CYA I can't fix without a water drain and refill. What about TA? How can I get that lowered without negatively affecting my other #'s? I'm currently in the 220 TA range along with my high pH, high CYA and low FC.

 

[dbizzle22]

Hi everyone. Is it ok to add muriatic acid while the pool is in chlorine shock mode?

 

[jblizzle]

why? The pH test is not accurate when the FC > 10ppm ... so you should not adjust the pH while in the shock process.

 

[dbizzle22]

why? The pH test is not accurate when the FC > 10ppm ... so you should not adjust the pH while in the shock process.

Thanks. I didn't know if they could be or shoukd be done simultaneously so that's why I asked.