Chlorine advice

[jtech1]

My first pool. I have learned so much along the way on here. Now on to chemistry. Looking for some advice on how to make the following adjustments.

New pool. 32K gal. Diamond Brite just done last Sun. Filled with well water. Following SGM 3 day chemistry adjustment process. I now have pH at 7.4 and TA at 80. Next step tomorrow is to adjust CH up to 200, chlorine to 1-3 and stabilizer to 30-70. Here are my questions:

1) I have a bag of Calcium chloride flakes (50 lb)... my calcs say I need 54 lbs to get to 200. I was planning on adding half and testing in 12 hours to see where it is. Then adding more. Diluting first in bucket of water and dumping in deep end. OK?

2) I can't start my salt cell for 4 weeks... so my PB said to get 3", 7 day tablets and put them in the skimmer basket. How many should I use to get FC to the right level? Local store had NuClo 7 day tablets, 10 lbs, $50.

3) Local store had SunGuard, 5lb bag, $17. To get CYA from 0 to 60 my calcs says I need 16 lbs... all at once? Mix with water?

Also, I assume that as long as the TA, pH and FC are in range the water is safe to swim in... even if CH and CYA are not in range yet... is this correct?

Thank you!

 

[Isaac-1]

Trichlor tabs add chlorine and CYA, so you don't want to over do the straight CYA (can only be removed by water replacement) Pool calculator will tell you exactly how much if you use the effects of chemicals at the bottom after setting the size of your pool at the top. As to adding straight CYA powder we suggest the sock method, hanging the sock in front of a return.

But before you do any of that do you have one of our suggested test kits, and can you post test numbers. (how much CH do you have in your water, etc.)

 

[jtech1]

Thanks.. yes. I have the K-2006.

Right after fill: pH=6.8, TA=30, CH=20, CYA=<30, iron=0, copper=0.
Today: pH=7.4, TA=50 (added some bicarb this morning... more tonight... I expect 70-80 tomorrow in tests)
I am going to retest all tomorrow before any changes.

 

[Isaac-1]

CYA should have been 0 after fill if you had not used in dichlor or trichlor stabilized dry chlorine products or added any CYA stabilizer. Also we don't suggest leaving puck in the skimmer if the pump is not running, as FC can build up and harm the plumbing / pump / seals etc. a cheap floater would be a better option if your going to use trichlor pucks, better yet would probably be add the desired 70 ppm of CYA stabilizer then use bleach instead of the trichlor until you can switch to your SWG.

Ike

 

[jtech1]

I have not used any chlorine or stabilizer yet. That is tomorrow. The Taylor CYA test has no zero... just indicates <30.

 

[jtech1]

On the K-2006... I assume that when they require a change to a new color (ie red to blue) that it has to be all the way? If it changes to purple, is that NOT considered enough change and you keep adding additional drops? Or with FC, pink to almost clear but still some slight pink, still requires another drop? Also, on the FC test, where is requires two little scoops of DPD powder... I assume they should be flat and not heaping scoops?

 

[jblizzle]

Always add drops until the last one cause no color change, that drop does not count.

You should only need 1 scoop of powder unless your FC is very high. As long as you start with a nice pink you are good.

See the extended testing instructions in a sticky in the testing forum for more details.

 

[jtech1]

Thanks. I read through the sticky and that was very helpful!

I wish there was a more accurate test for CYA... seems the dot method is a but subjective... glare and angle can obscure the dot and cause a misread.

Is there a recommended quick OTO chlorine test strip that is quicker than the K-2006 FAS-DPD test?

 

[Charlie_R]

NO test strip is accurate enough, nor do they tell you the difference between FC and CC.


OTO test are good but only up to 5 ppm.

Trust your FAS-DPD to tell you toe truth about your chlorine levels.

 

[stoney65]

Thanks. I read through the sticky and that was very helpful!

I wish there was a more accurate test for CYA... seems the dot method is a but subjective... glare and angle can obscure the dot and cause a misread.

Is there a recommended quick OTO chlorine test strip that is quicker than the K-2006 FAS-DPD test?

I like you found the k-2006 test for cya to be very difficult to read. It never read high enough on the scale to determine the level of cya. In the mean time, leslies, using a Taylor 4088 tester, the same r-0013 reagent, and the same pool water was telling me my Cya level was only 40. So I got into quite the argument with some of the pros here how I didn't see why there was that much of a discrepancy between what they were saying and my k-2006 tester was implying. Wanting to recognize leslies test as being more accurate than any I was doing myself to avoid draining and refilling what I thought was a 32000 gallon pool. I finally broke down and did the double dilution test afand found that my cya level was indeed well over 300. I was in denial until Saturday morning when I found my totally clear pretty blue pool had developed a bit of murky green tinge. Well, that convinced me. I did an accurate calculation of the true capacity of my pool, finding it to be an effective 24200 gal capacity. To leave a foot of water in my shallow end, I calculated I would drain 8100 gals-or one third at a time and refill a like amount. After 4 drains and refills, my Cya measured at 25 at leslies, 30 using my 4088 tester and duplicated using my k-2006 tester. I have to tell you the 4088 is the way to go! !!!! Yes you use a lot more r-0013 reagent, but that's why you get 16 oz bottle from Taylor along with the tester. That was $10 --only slightly more than the original 2 oz bottle they and leslies all for almost $9. In all, I think the extra cost is well worth the eyesight you're saving, not to mention piece of mind you're getting an accurate result.

 

[jtech1]

so, when you tested with the K-2006, was the water so cloudy that you could not see the dot right away and had no way of knowing how far beyond the end of the scale it was?

 

[stoney65]

so, when you tested with the K-2006, was the water so cloudy that you could not see the dot right away and had no way of knowing how far beyond the end of the scale it was?

Exactly! !! Until I diluted twice with tap water. I finally got around last close to a real measurement of 80 multiplied that by 4 to get 320. The initial drain and refill took it down to about 220, the second to 150, the third to about 100, the fourth to about 60 and the last was a surprise to 30.

 

[jtech1]

OK. So, as long as your CYA level is in the mid to low range of the scale it sound like the K-2006 test will be pretty accurate... only when your level is at or beyond the high end do you have to do the single or double dilution for an accurate reading?

 

[stoney65]

OK. So, as long as your CYA level is in the mid to low range of the scale it sound like the K-2006 test will be pretty accurate... only when your level is at or beyond the high end do you have to do the single or double dilution for an accurate reading?

They suggest diluting if it's 90 or over.

 

[jtech1]

My CYA is now at 55. A little higher than I wanted to go. Even though my PB told be to use the 7-day tablets I am not using them any more. For the next 3 weeks until I can turn on my salt cell, is the best thing to use just straight bleach poured in each morning as needed? I assume that Clorox regular unscented bleach is fine?

 

[techguy]

Yes, straight bleach is great, or the pool liquid sanitizer(HTH and Kemtech are two brand ). I use WalMart Great Value when thy are out of the pool variety. No scents or thickeners.

 

[jtech1]

Thanks... One thing that I also missed is that CYA takes time to register... the SGM instructions said to get it to a certain level on day 2... I kept adding for a few days, not knowing that it took more time to register than other chemicals. I am hoping I am really at 55 and it is not still taking time to register more. I have an almost full bucket of pucks that have to get rid of! Seems like the non-educated pool owner who uses pucks for months and months could have their CYA through the roof and not ever know it.

Is the HTH stuff similar in cost to bleach? I assume the HTH does not have any stabilizer... just plain chlorine?

 

[jblizzle]

CYA from the pucks typically shows up on the tests immediately. It is the pure CYA that can take a week. You are absolutely right that many people have the pool turn green when their CYA gets too high.

If it is liquid chlorine, it does not have CYA in it.

 

[stoney65]

Yes, straight bleach is great, or the pool liquid sanitizer(HTH and Kemtech are two brand ). I use WalMart Great Value when thy are out of the pool variety. No scents or thickeners.

Neither of which are available where I live. Thriving on the great value 8.25% at Walmart.

 

[techguy]

The HTH is what I buy in the Wal_Mart "pool" section. it is over by the garden department in many stores.