so, what chemicals do i need to stock to maintain pool

gtnos

Well-known member
Jun 9, 2013
549
Newcastle, Oklahoma
after i get my new pool up, filled, running, etc...

what chemicals do i need to pick up for it?

ive read pool school and played with the pool calc, from what the calculator says to add to pool when needed, i gathered that i need

Baking soda
Borax
Chlorine (bleach)
some brand of liquid stabilizer
calcium chloride

and of course granular shock

is that about it?

also, im assuming i fill the pool (this will be city water) and test it with test kit, enter test results in pool calculator, and then simply pour in / add what the calculator tells me to?

do i test the water as soon as its full, or will it need to sit for a bit first?

thanks

PS- if i missed the thread on this through search or somehow slept through that section of pool school, please just link me to it... :hammer:
 
You only "need" to buy the chemicals that you have to add depending on what your test results show.

You will NEVER need: granular "shock".
You will CERTAINLY need: bleach, stabilizer (solid or liquid)
You MIGHT need: baking soda if TA is low, calcium if CH is low, and EITHER muriatic acid OR borax/soda ash to adjust the pH

Fill the pool, circulate for an hour, then test FC, CC, pH, TA, CH ... CYA will be 0ppm.
 
You're list looks pretty good. You don't need the shock. If you keep the proper fc levels you wont need to shock. You can use granular CYA. Its cheaper than the liquid. Check your fill water right away.


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What type and size of pool are you filling?

That will determine if you need a couple of those items.

The stabilizer doesn't need to be liquid, unless you like to pay high for the convenience.

What will you be testing your water with? If it isn't a drop based kit (TF100, K-2006), then that actually should be your first purchase. See the links in any of the Mods sig lines. DO test your fill water before filling your pool. If you are on a well, do a "bucket test". Fill a 5 gal bucket with your well water, then put a few ounces of bleach in it. If it turns colors, SCREAM for help here!!

Next you need to read and then re-read, and a third time read pool school. Yes, I know you stated that you've read it, but reading through it several times you will pick up a lot more.

Chemicals. Depending on your fill water test, you can start with just the CYA and bleach, and get whatever else you need later.
 
others beat me, but here are my thoughts....

Until you have reliable test results, you will not know. You will need bleach/liquid chlorine and cyanuric acid (cya) for sure.

Many people never need baking soda or borax (I am one of these). Muriatic acid is commonly needed to [s:gw1k0818]raise[/s:gw1k0818] lower ph. Fixed it for you, jblizzle ;)

gtnos said:
some brand of liquid stabilizer
The liquid stabilzer is expensive. I would recommend the the granular stablizer (aka cyanuric acid...cya).

gtnos said:
and of course granular shock
Absolutely not...read: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/recommended_pool_chemicals

Which test kit do you have?
 
I've got 2 big bags of baking soda that I bought on spec months ago. Wish I hadn't. They're taking up valuable room in my pump shed and they're always in the way. When it comes to chemicals, my rule of thumb is don't overbuy and don't buy until you know exactly what you need.
 
One other thing to note: Don't try to buy out the store on bleach if it is going to sit for a while. Bleach, or any liquid chlorine product WILL lose it's effectiveness over time. You can check this by testing any you might have had left over from last year.

1mL bleach to 10L water = 1:10,000. Test with your kit. See if it matches the label.

Store in a cool dark place.
 
Assuming you have the test kit in possession already - and if not, you should - test your fill water. The pH , TA. and CH readings will tell you a lot.

High pH and high TA means you may never need to buy Borax or Baking Soda. I never have. But I do go through muriatic acid at an alarming rate.

Low CH means nothing to a vinyl pool, but it will give you some room if you ever stumble across a smokin' sale on Cal-hypo. High CH means you will never get to use Cal-hypo.
 

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