Received the TF-100 kit and these are my results:
Ph 7.5
FC 1
CC 20
TA over 500
CH over 1100
CYA 90
Ph 7.5
FC 1
CC 20
TA over 500
CH over 1100
CYA 90
Received my TF-100 kit and these are the results.
- Thread starter Merc Sof
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I think you may have your FC and CC mixed up.
The one thing that sticks out to me unless that is an extra 0 in the CH level is that needs to come down right away.
So lets make sure all your results above are correct especially in reference to CH, TA, CC, FC.
The one thing that sticks out to me unless that is an extra 0 in the CH level is that needs to come down right away.
So lets make sure all your results above are correct especially in reference to CH, TA, CC, FC.
What does your water look like? Testing in a bit of rain is fine....take the sample from a foot or so below the surface.
The water is a blue cloudy color. It was cleared up after algae, clearer than had ever been but there were many leaves in the bottom. Cleaned leaves out and clouded up a blue color instead of green and have been trying to get it cleared. Have used the shock method several times and no results. Can't even see to the bottom of the shallow end of the pool
You almost used the shock method. Without the FAS-DPD test kit, you probably weren't able to do an accurate overnight loss test or measure the CC level, and you stopped when only one of the three criteria were met. The algae is regrouping for a counterattack, hence cloudy.Merc Sof said:
Now PH is over 8.2
FC 1
CC 0
TA used 25 drops and never turned red. Turned from a green color back to clear with no red at all.
Calcium 250 25 drops and never really turned blue from pink....But had almost a slight blue tint.
CYA 90
FC 1
CC 0
TA used 25 drops and never turned red. Turned from a green color back to clear with no red at all.
Calcium 250 25 drops and never really turned blue from pink....But had almost a slight blue tint.
CYA 90
What's an everyday chlorine test? Strips? Your old tester? Your new OTO test?Merc Sof said:
For this process, all you want to use is the FAS-DPD test. The powder. Use a 10 ml sample and track FC as 1.0 or 1.5 or 2.0 -using the decimal point - so people know it's from that test and not someone eyeballing shades of color. Also do the CC test.
If FC is really high, the pH test will go weird. That's why we say set the pH at the beginning and forget it. accurate-ph-test-during-shock-levels-with-r-007-t61076.html
If that 1 FC reading is accurate, then you're not following the shock process.
The everyday test is the blue kit K-1000 that comes with the TF-100. Before the TF-100 I used test strips because that is all I had. I shocked the pool using the bleach method I calculated from the volume of my pool and the cloudy blue color in my pool. I added over 20 bottles of 128 oz bleach in a few days and showed no real improvements.
First you should lower the pH to around 7.2. Then you need to follow the shock process, until all 3 criteria are met. The process is linked to in my signature.
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